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Old Apr 6, 2011, 8:27 PM   #1
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Default Footy game shots at daylight

Hi Friends,

I am going for a Footy match on coming SUNDAY. Its on Daylight from 1PM - 4 PM.

Can you please assist me in...

What camera settings should i use?
What mode to shoot?
what should i be aware of?

I might be sitting just next to ground.

Thanks in Advance.
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Old Apr 6, 2011, 10:50 PM   #2
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Hi,

I don't know about policies in your country about bringing in a camera to the stadium. It may be that they are prohibited. If not, and I were going to photograph a soccer match, I would take along your E-620 and use the 50-200mm SWD lens.

Settings I would use are:
Set ISO to: Auto ISO with a ceiling of 2500ISO. The camera will automatically determine the ISO needed for each shot especially if the lighting conditions change during the coarse of the game.
Use Auto WB
I would also set the sharpness to 0 and the contrast to -1. You'll be able to control the sharpness and contrast in the photo editing software.
set your shutter to Hi burst. This will cause the shutter to continually fire until you release the shutter.
I would shoot in RAW, if at all possible. The raw file will be uncompressed and maintain the greatest amount of information in the image file.
I would set the picture mode to natural.

I suggest you use the camera in Aperture mode. Aperture mode allows you to choose the aperture or the size of lens opening which determines how much light the lens allows in. It also controls depth of field. a higher number gives you greater depth of field.

The Auto Focus should be set to S-AF, with a single point center. By doing so, you can follow the player or action with the center point and the camera will focus on the center point instead of some other area that you hadn't intended it to. When trying to take a shot of some action, I would feather the shutter release button (lightly depressing it a number of times to get the lens into focus. Once the lens is focused (you'll see a green round ball appear in the lower part of the viewfinder) you can then fully depress the shutter button and keep it depressed so that it will fire as long as you want to take pictures of the action.

Without being there, and seeing the lighting conditions, it's hard to tell you what aperture I would set it for. But, I would start with an aperture fairly wide open i.e. f3.5. The camera will then choose the shutter speed that is appropriate. Ideally, you want the shutter speed to be around 1/640 sec. so you can freeze the action.
If the lighting conditions are good and bright, then you'll probably have the aperture set to f8 and the shutter speed will be 1/640 or faster and the ISO will show( in the bottom of the viewfinder) around ISO250 to 320.

I hope that helps. Here are a few shots taken with the E-30 using the 50-200mm lens at my grandson's football games.







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Old Apr 6, 2011, 11:38 PM   #3
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Wow what a detailed explanation ZIG. Thank you very much for the patience and time you have spent to write this.

I am allowed to take my camera and i am going to take my E620 and 50-200mm SWD with me as you have suggested.

I will play experiments with your suggestions and will post the results here.

Also the photographs what you have posted are awesome and glad you had very decent shots. Hope your grandson could have praised for this.
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Old Apr 6, 2011, 11:52 PM   #4
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Hi Zig,

Can i also use Center Weighted average metering as well? or should i stick with ESP?
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Old Apr 7, 2011, 2:02 PM   #5
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You'll probably want to experiment when you first get there. From your original message I see this is a day game. Depending on whether you have a lot of shadows (mainly shadows from the stadium walls/stands, not necessary off just the players themselves) or not may help determine the type metering you want to do. If the field is completely lit with even lighting, I would think ESP metering should be fine. If you are dealing with a lot of shadows....it just depends. Play around with your exposures and check the images on your back LCD. If there are lots of shadows, I would definitely shoot RAW to give yourself the ability to get the most out of the shadow details.

Last edited by Greg Chappell; Apr 7, 2011 at 4:59 PM.
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