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Old Apr 8, 2013, 10:15 AM   #1
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Default E-3 Questions

Right now, it seems that the manual is my biggest enemy to overcome. It is very vague in many areas so I thought I'd start a thread on E-3 questions as I am sure I will have many. The first guantlet to overcome is the focus set up. When would you use "spiral" and "loop" sensing or what is the advantage/disadvantage of either.
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Old Apr 8, 2013, 11:20 AM   #2
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H James

Best place to start is wrotnaiks, E-3 setup guide (the Oly manual .. is well like all manuals terrible) ... use that as the base settings and the tweak from there. It'll cover all of the settings and why you should use a certain setting.

http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/43/e3-sett.html
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Old Apr 8, 2013, 2:25 PM   #3
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Just scanned through that info Harj, plenty of stuff to set there. I think tomorrow some time I will sit down with the E-3 and begin this process. I am surprised that he favors -0.3EV but we'll give it a shot.
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Old Apr 8, 2013, 3:21 PM   #4
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Good point.. I hadn't noticed that and that I usually go for dead spot on but if it looks right on the LCD, then I know its at least 1/2 a stop underexposed and possibly more. I think my E3's just a bit odd
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Old Apr 8, 2013, 10:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Emory View Post
Right now, it seems that the manual is my biggest enemy to overcome. It is very vague in many areas so I thought I'd start a thread on E-3 questions as I am sure I will have many. The first guantlet to overcome is the focus set up. When would you use "spiral" and "loop" sensing or what is the advantage/disadvantage of either.
Hi James: "spiral" and "loop" is not sensing, but just the direction of moving around the focus spots when you are changing the focus point. Either way works but it is really rarely used. I just leave it on spiral as I rarely need to change focus spots, etc. I normally just use a single point focus. If needed, I just use the Super Control panel and can change the focus point, or move from single point to cross shaped focus points. I never use all the focus points.

I remember that one of my biggest adjustments to learning to use the E-3, was remembering that it has two control dials instead of one. All my previous E series cameras just had one dial, and I would keep forgetting about the second one.

Now I would be hard pressed to go back to a one-control dial camera. I have mine programed for the back dial to change the setting, and the front dial to adjust "+" or "-". So for example, if I'm using Aperture preferred. my thumb changes the f-stop, and the front finger changes exposure compensation plus or minus if needed.(.3, .7,1.0 etc). Or for using Shutter Preference, the back dial changes the shutter speed, and the front finger still adjust the + or - adjustments.

Anyway, I remember that it seemed a little overwhelming at first to have all those menu and control choices. It definitely had more options than any cameras that I had previously owned. I probably still don't know all the things that can be adjusted, but after a while it will not be so intimidating anymore. And everyone here on the forum is here to help. have fun learning you new camera.
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Old Apr 8, 2013, 10:33 PM   #6
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Good point.. I hadn't noticed that and that I usually go for dead spot on but if it looks right on the LCD, then I know its at least 1/2 a stop underexposed and possibly more. I think my E3's just a bit odd
Hi Harj: You might have forgotten that your LCD picture display is fully adjustable and can be fine tuned in the menu options. It is in the last menu tree, and is right after the "Edit Filename" menu and right before the language menu.

You can either set it to Auto, or can fine tune the brightness up or down in small steps. You should be able to to adjust it to where the LCD display matches the actual photos that your camera is taking.

The auto setting works for me, and I can tell instantly by my LCD if my exposure was correct or under or over.
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Old Apr 9, 2013, 9:31 AM   #7
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By golly, Steven is correct and he posted this while I was looking up how to adjust the display. You really do want it to match the exposures the camera is producing. I'm guessing the previous owner may have changed it to suit his preferences.

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Old Apr 9, 2013, 11:07 AM   #8
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Hi Jim

I think the -0.3 EV is is dialed in if your using Matrix or Centre weighted metering, although I could be wrong.

Steve, thanks for the headsup on the LCD.. I didn't even know that the option was there to adjust the LCD! I've programmed me wee brain to just look at the histogram and assume that if it looks spot on on the LCD.. its not.
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Old Apr 9, 2013, 3:06 PM   #9
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Harj, I haven't gotten that far yet. In fact I never got a chance to even start to set up the camera yet. I work from my home office selling LED products for aquariums and today has been very busy. Good news though is that all of my M43 gear sold today so that pays for my E-3 with some cash left.
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Hi Jim

I think the -0.3 EV is is dialed in if your using Matrix or Centre weighted metering, although I could be wrong.

Steve, thanks for the headsup on the LCD.. I didn't even know that the option was there to adjust the LCD! I've programmed me wee brain to just look at the histogram and assume that if it looks spot on on the LCD.. its not.
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Old Apr 17, 2013, 10:38 AM   #10
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James is getting very close to sewing up a deal on a minty 14-54mm f/2.8 Oly lens for $164.00 shipped. No case or lens hood but for the price, I guess I can afford to buy the hood and the case really isn't necessary with a camera bag.
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