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Old Apr 3, 2006, 7:29 PM   #31
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I was going to copy a few hundred Canon S45 RAW images back to my SCSI RAID 10 array and convert them to my SCSI RAID 0 array with Bibble Pro Trial. I will try the others on my JPG pictures and see what they do. Adobe CS2 does 40 RAW to JPG a minute on my workstation with decent quality.
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Old Apr 3, 2006, 10:25 PM   #32
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Starting to understand

1: f/1
2: f/1.4
4: f/2
8: f/2.8
12: f/3.5
16: f/4
32: f/5.6
64: f/8
128: f/11
256: f/16
512: f/22

f/2.8 to f/2.0 = (8-4)/8 = 4/8 or 50% less light

My lens:
f/3.5 to f/2.8 = (12-8 )/12 = 4/12 or 33% less light
f/5.6 to f/3.5 = (32-12 )/32 = 20/32 = 5/8 = 62.5% less light












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Old Apr 4, 2006, 12:08 AM   #33
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mckennma wrote:
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I did not think those apps were needed on RAW only JPG.
Noise is noise, no matter whether you're shooting RAW or JPEG. If you want an excellent one-stop solution, get Silkypix. It has the fullest feature set of just about any dedicated raw converter--including a very good NR function--, and it is probably the best third-party program for reproducing Olympus color. If you're just shooting jpeg, Jim is right, Noiseware, Neatimage, and NoiseNinja are the leaders. I'm in the midst of a test right now for the best way to handle ISO 1600 noise on the E-300. As Jim noted, one of the first things to be sure of is getting the exposure and WB right. High-ISO noise is very sensitive to underexposure and increases very rapidly in shadow areas, while remaining virtually the same as ISO 100 in white areas. WB can also affect the type of chroma noise you get, so that's especially important when shooting jpeg.


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Old Apr 4, 2006, 8:46 AM   #34
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The camera should be here today. I will be putting the information to use.

I will probably work with Av. It will be shooting in RAW only. I used both Av and RAW with my S45.

The CS2 book I am reading said white balance can be adjusted in CS2. I was looking for information on exposure, white balance, and Ev settings. I would probably not zoom on the 14-54 f/2.8-f/3.5 lens after reading Jim's great explanation. I started reading about chroma noise. I might do a comparison between Av and Auto mode. Look at what the camera does in the same conditions in both modes. I would be curious to see how night scene would work in low interior lighting.

ISO 1600 would require finer settings on the camera. Post some pictures.
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Old Apr 4, 2006, 9:27 AM   #35
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mckennma wrote:
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The CS2 book I am reading said white balance can be adjusted in CS2.
When you shoot in raw, the White Balance information is still in the file (part of the metadata in the raw file header). Raw Converters that know how to translate this data (and not all do) can then apply the same white balance settings to the converted images if desired (select the 'As Shot" white balance). That way, you have a good starting point, while still giving you the flexibility to adjust white balance as desired.

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I might do a comparison between Av and Auto mode. Look at what the camera does in the same conditions in both modes.
In low light, most cameras are going to select the largest available aperture anyway in Auto mode.

Quote:
was looking for information on exposure, white balance, and Ev settings. I would probably not zoom on the 14-54 f/2.8-f/3.5 lens after reading Jim's great explanation.
Staying at the wide angle end will help some if shutter speeds are borderline (faster shutter speeds, and less blur from camera shake, since blur from camera shake is magnified as focal lengths get longer). Also, the lens probably won't drop to f/3.5 all at once.

I use a Tamron 20-40mm f/2.7-3.5 lens inside sometimes with my KM 5D, and I zoom in with it often indoors at higher ISO speeds. There isn't a *lot* of difference between the wide and long end of a lens like this in the overall scheme of things.

If lighting is too low for f/2.7-3.5, I go with a prime. My Minolta 28mm f/2 is usually my first choice for indoor use with my KM 5D, although I'm considering replacing it with a brighter (f/1.4) lens.

But, since you'll be shooting stationary subjects, slower shutter speeds shouldn't be as much of a problem with practice and good technique. It sounds like you're already accustomed to bracing yourself for a shot with other cameras you've used.

I don't know what's available in faster glass for the Olympus lineup (although the Zuiko f/2 zoom lenses certaintly got my attention when they were announced). :-)

Perhaps some Olympus users can comment on brighter glass availability if needed.

It's also my understanding that Olympus has a lens converter that allows you to use OM lenses with this model.

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Old Apr 4, 2006, 10:00 AM   #36
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I have learned decent technique because I like to shoot alot of pictures and don't like garbage shots. I am 6' 3" 225 with a 18.5" neck, as you see from the picture on my web site. My frame and head don't move that much when shooting. It takes a lot to bump me. Breath control is important when shooting on walking tours. I usually have only a few seconds to get a shot off. I work on my technique and usually move away from the group while shooting to get good footing, good footing and angle from the sun outside. Inside, I tend to stay away from direct window light. I try not to shoot into a bright light. Good footing is most important thing for balance.

I checked out the Olympus E-500 brochure for 4/3 lenses. The 14-54mm f/2.8 was the one I could afford. It is 28mm-108mm so I get wide angle and decent zoom. I was not sure what OM converter and lenses would do for the E-500. My camera budget is at its end after I get the 2 x CF media, extra 2 batteries, new camera bag, cleaning kit for lenses, etc. The camera body, 14-54 lens, and Wolverine 60GB MVP set me back $1500+ so far. I will get back $150 in rebates.

Not sure if I would want to spend another $400+ for a sub 2.8 lens. Zuiko f/2.0 lens would probably be expensive and not available for my Sept. trip. with my luck. Can't see spending $800+ for a lens. I only shoot on my vacation. I am single. No children to photograph.

What characteristics of the OM lens would change how I would shoot? Did not spend much time looking at OM lenses. I wanted Olympus lenses to start with.

I might leave the camera in full auto mode and see what it has the settings at from 14 to 54 on this lens. Get an idea of what the camera comes up with for proper settings. Then use this information to play with Av mode.


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Old Apr 4, 2006, 10:07 AM   #37
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Fast Glass

Remember that Sigma is supposed to be coming out with five of their top lenses--including the 30mm f1.4--in 4/3 mount later this year. They won't be cheap, but if you need fast. . .

* 30mm F1.4 EX DC HSM
* 18-50mm F2.8 EX DC
* MACRO 105mm F2.8 EX DG
* APO MACRO 150mm F2.8 EX DG HSM
* APO 50-500mm F4-6.3 EX DG HSM

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Old Apr 4, 2006, 10:18 AM   #38
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mckennma wrote:
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What characteristics of the OM lens would change how I would shoot? Did not spend much time looking at OM lenses. I wanted Olympus lenses to start with.
OM lenses are Olympus (for their OM series 35mm cameras).

They are manual focus lenses, and you'd need an adapter for them to work on an E Series model.

The advantage is that you can find bright lenses on the used market at reasonable prices.

Again, I'm not familiar with what's available. But, a quick glance at the used department at http://www.keh.com shows the 50mm f/1.4 for as little as $49

I also see a 28mm f/2 in excellent condition for $299.

Because the sensor in the E Series models is smaller than 35mm film, you need to multiply the actual focal length of a lens by 2x to see how the angle of view compares to the same lens on a 35mm camera. So, a 28mm lens on an E Series camera would give you the same angle of view that a 56mm lens would on a 35mm model (which may or may not be too long, depending on what you're shooting).


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Old Apr 4, 2006, 10:19 AM   #39
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Fast glass = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
My budget = $$$$

Most of those are more than the camera body. I have to balance my budget and my once a year shooting on vacation. The frame and two lens was $699. I don't want to spend more than $450 on a lens. I still have excursion to purchase. I set aside $2000 for this including:

My London to Paris EuroStar first class train / tour. I want to go through the Chunnel.
City tours
Hermitage in St. Peterburg
Windsor Castle, Herrods, Tower of London, etc.
Train to Berlin and City tour
Souviniers.

I try to pack in a lot of site seeing. I do more on vacation than I do in three days at work.

I will probably get 2 x 1GB Extreme IIIs to save $70 on 2 x 2GB. I have my Wolverine 60GB and Super Digibin 30GB for picture storage. I will get 70 RAW per 1GB.


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Old Apr 4, 2006, 10:26 AM   #40
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Interesting on getting used lens. I will check out that site. I was looking for a 14-28mm f/1.8. It would be 28-56mm f/1.8 to get decent wide angle and average zoom. Could not find one. f/1.4 were expensive in wide angle. I would settle for a f/1.8 wide angle. Manual focus would not bother me. Any other reputable used sites?
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