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Old Sep 13, 2010, 4:54 AM   #21
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The EPL1 is no different. Unless you spend some $200+ on an EVF, forget about accurate MF through the LCD. Sometimes, the magnification makes it even worse, specially handheld.
On the other hand, MF on the Panasonic G1, GH1 & G2 is simple!!!
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 11:03 AM   #22
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On the other hand, MF on the Panasonic G1, GH1 & G2 is simple!!!
The cost to make the E-PL1 as easy to manually focus (adding the EVF) puts the E-PL1 well over the cost of a G2 as well. If this camera is going to be the OP's only, or main camera, it is the better buy, cost-wise.

On the other hand, one of the main reasons I bought my E-PL1 is to have a much smaller camera than my main DSLR and to be able to get it into places without evoking a lot of security angst and carrying an E-PL1 with something like the kit lens fitted and without the EVF in the hot shoe makes it a very "point & shoot like" looking camera to security personel. I've already taken it to a college football game where I know a DSLR-look-alike camera would have been turned away, and security at the Dallas Museum of Art yesterday did not look twice at my E-PL1 with the little Panasonic 20mm f1.7 mounted.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 1:46 PM   #23
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Well said Greg. In addition to cost, I also wanted the IBIS, so I can use deadly cheap telephoto lenses. M4/3 lenses are way too expensive and too few available, and they are still too big in terms of P&S that I went for in the first place. So I'd rather use SLR lenses when needed, at least they cost nothing. It is either a pancake or a SLR, and the kit lens fits the between.

I have very good reasons to never buy anything Sony. They always spend too much time into coolness, tininess and WoW effect to ignore some essential things such as, in this case, an EVF and some good lenses. Like Panasonic, you always pay much more than you should. The representatives they send to stores cost *YOUR* money!
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 5:16 PM   #24
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To me, the EVF is crucial for manual focusing when using vintage lenses and it is good to have when the LCD is as bad as the EPL1. I have the little Panasonic ZS7 and have no problems shooting through the LCD, even in bright daylight. I can't do the same with the EPL1.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 5:55 PM   #25
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... I have the little Panasonic ZS7 and have no problems shooting through the LCD, even in bright daylight. I can't do the same with the EPL1.
Managed to claim a few moments with the new camera today, mainly to get used to how it feels in the hand. And I will say Tullio has a point. It was bright sunlight down by the lake and the screen was hard to view (well i did have my least clear reading glasses on). Not impossible but not great. My old W1 screen seemed brighter. I'm sure there is an adjustment for bumping up the screen brightness. Plus the dog was yanking on my arm so...

Speaking of the dog, discovered another concern with the screen and focusing. Early morning, trying to capture the dog while she was waking up. Yes dim light. Popped up the flash, set it to 1/16 power. Pointed at the dog, pressed the shutter and nothing. Setting was auto something and it could not focus. My wife placed the dog's favourite toy (a white teddy bear) beside her to create some contrast and still nothing. The dog is a silver standard poodle, my walking gray card. After some button pushing, found manual focus (did I mention the light was dim and the screen as a result was next to black), set the camera to manual exposure and aimed in the general direction and got a shot off. My wife did not look amused. She thought this camera was going to be simple and amazing.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 6:06 PM   #26
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I'm far from being impressed by it. Yes, it handles high ISO well for such a little camera but overall, it has many flaws. For instance, the EP1 had the shutter topping up at 1/4000 while the EPL1 is only 1/2000. This creates a huge limitation when shooting with fast lenses (such as the Lumix 20mm) wide open for shallow DoF in bright daylight. I could not do it. An ND filter is absolutely mandatory. This means, I can't simply take the camera out for a walk. I need to make sure I have a ND filter as well (and having to mount/unmount as needed since NDs cut the light too much so you can't leave it on at all times as the UV). More and more I think that the EPL1 makes a lot of sense for people whose primary equipment is a full size DSLR. In my case, my primary camera is a G1, which is already pretty small and light. So, the EPL1 might just be sent back to good ol' Amazon.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 6:09 PM   #27
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make sure the firmware is updated to the latest version. Also do not use all the AF points, that will slow up the Auto Focus. Use on point, that way it is faster, and will have less miss focus errors.

You can also try greg's smaller AF point. Here is the link to it.

http://forums.steves-digicams.com/ol...n-epl-1-a.html
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 6:10 PM   #28
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Forgot to add the resulting photo of Kula, which after a wee adjustment in photoshop came out better than i expected... Not art, but not bad for 6 in the morning
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 6:20 PM   #29
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make sure the firmware is updated to the latest version. Also do not use all the AF points, that will slow up the Auto Focus. Use on point, that way it is faster, and will have less miss focus errors.
Updated the firmware before I did anything else. Played with Greg's smaller auto focus and yes, much improvement.

But I have to prove to my wife that it can take great photos on the iAuto setting. Though she worked in photography some years back, today she wants simple.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 6:21 PM   #30
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Tullio,

I kinds agree with you that the epl1 is not for everyone. With the 20mm 1.7 if you do shoot at 1.7 in bright sunlight. The 1/2000iso will be a problem. But for none dslr users, the kit lens works well enough not needing more then 1/2000 of a second. My primary camera is a dslr, but the epl-1 is my wife's primary camera. And during the day, she uses the kit lens and the panasonic 45-200. And the 45-200 gives here plenty of shallow dof during the day. So she works within the limits of the epl-1. But when I use the epl-1, I work within it's limits and have not had any problems with the 20mm 1.7. I do have a ND filter for it. But have not really had to use it. As having to shoot at wider then 3.5, I do have way to much bokeh effect and not enough of the subject in focus.

It all comes down to working within the limits of the camera. If I had gone with a gf1 over the epl-1 I would live with 1250iso as it's top for low light shooting. That would go for pretty much the whole panny lineup. Because the saying is true, there is no perfect camera.

But to be fair, I can not shoot my canon with my 1.8 or better prime wide open in bright daylight either without a ND filter even with 1/4000 of a sec shutter speed. I do need to stop down or all the shots at 1/4000 of a sec is over exposed badly.

With the lcd being darker, you can increase the brightness of the screen to make it work better in bright sunlight.
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Last edited by shoturtle; Sep 13, 2010 at 6:41 PM.
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