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Old Sep 12, 2010, 5:15 PM   #1
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Default E-PL1 and 20/1.7 at Dallas Museum of Art....wow...

What a combination. I could get used to using this outfit quite a lot.

Shot RAW and processed in Adobe Camera RAW. I used manual focus in capturing most of these. What a breeze, and I spot metered them all.

All the images are located here..

http://gmchappell.smugmug.com/Portfo...04894201_UMx2m























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Old Sep 12, 2010, 5:51 PM   #2
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very nicely done greg
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Old Sep 12, 2010, 6:12 PM   #3
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Super shots Greg, especially if you were mainly using manual focus. How difficult is manual focus on your E-PL1??
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Old Sep 12, 2010, 6:45 PM   #4
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Super shots Greg, especially if you were mainly using manual focus. How difficult is manual focus on your E-PL1??
It's really, really easy. Touch the focus ring and the camera zooms in to the center area of the image, which pops into and out of focus using the 20mm f1.7 Once you take your fingers off the focus ring or touch the release it goes back to the full view. The only type camera I have used that was as easy to manually focus was a Leica M.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 1:26 PM   #5
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What aperture did you use? I find the photos taken with the EPL1 + 20mm at f1.7 to be mostly OOF, except for one spot. The DoF is very shallow, so taking pictures of people seems to be a problem at 1.7.

BTW, your images are excellent!
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 1:29 PM   #6
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these look phenomenal Greg. i really liked the shots with the sculptures, they turned out really well and the shallower dof of the panny really set them apart. very nicely done, now i am wanting one. (if i can ever get my friend to return my epl1 he borrowed!)
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 3:06 PM   #7
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What aperture did you use? I find the photos taken with the EPL1 + 20mm at f1.7 to be mostly OOF, except for one spot. The DoF is very shallow, so taking pictures of people seems to be a problem at 1.7.

BTW, your images are excellent!
Thanks, Tullio.

I used the camera strictly in program mode and it picked f1.7 for every shot, 1/60 second shutter speed for every shot and simply moved the ISO setting up or down based on the ambient light. I did not realize that's what the camera had done until I uploaded all the files and started looking at the EXIF data and noticed the exposure was the same in every picture!

I used spot metering and simply scanned over the field of view until the lighting was at a level I wanted (great feature of electronic finders) and locked the exposure at that point.

I probably manually focussed 75% of the time to just play with it. Images really pop into and out of focus on the screen with this lens when manually focussed.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 3:19 PM   #8
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these look phenomenal Greg. i really liked the shots with the sculptures, they turned out really well and the shallower dof of the panny really set them apart. very nicely done, now i am wanting one. (if i can ever get my friend to return my epl1 he borrowed!)
You know....that 45mm f2.8 Panny macro lens sounds awfully tempting after seeing the type images possible with this lens...

In the response I just sent to Tullio above, it was interesting to note after downloading and looking at all the files every one of them was shot at 1/60 second and f1.7! I never caught on as I was at the museum shooting. I had the camera in program, auto white balance and auto ISO. I started scanning the camera menus last night after seeing this to see if there was a minimum shutter speed setting option and didn't find one, but was glad the camera did what it did.

I've always thought it would be a good idea to be able to set a manual exposure in a low-light indoor setting like this and just let the camera adjust ISO settings and override when necessary, but if you try it manually the camera turns off auto ISO. Now I know, it appears, the E-PL1 will sometimes do it on its' own.

Last edited by Greg Chappell; Sep 13, 2010 at 3:21 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 11:02 PM   #9
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Did you use iEnhance or Natural mode?
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 11:15 PM   #10
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Nautral Mode. These were captured RAW, but what you are seeing is very close to what in-camera JPEG's would have looked like. I have Adobe Camera RAW set up to open RAW files based on the in-camera data.

The main things I do in the RAW converter are related to sharpening, noise control, cropping/straightening and tweeking the white balance if the cameras' auto white balance system does not go a good job. If I want to tweek or intensify colors I will use the vibrance slider, but I did not use that slider at all with these and I did very little adjusting of white balance values.

The straightening and crop tools in ACR are the best tools for those purposes I have used in any program
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