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Old Jun 17, 2011, 1:11 PM   #11
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There is no other way to do it but manually enter the FL. That is what you need to deal with with old zoom lenses.
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Old Jun 17, 2011, 1:27 PM   #12
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One of the greatest advantages of the Oly cameras over Panas is IBIS, which will work with MF lenses as well. However, in the case of zoom MF lenses, I'm not sure how effective IS will be. A 70-300mm lens offers a wide FL range. Obviously changing the FL in camera every time you zoom in/out is not feasible. So, I guess the best way to go is to pick a value somewhere in the middle or closer to the FL you'll use the most. For instance, if you are shooting birds with a long zoom, you know that most shots will be taken with the lens at 300mm, so setting the FL between 220 and 300 should work.
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Old Jun 17, 2011, 1:32 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Wes James View Post
Tullio-
I'm with you, as I have a very clean old late '70's Wolfpro 85-210 zoom lens that I'd like to use. That is part of where my question was directed originally. And obviously, with a lens like that the IS would certainly be very desireable!
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There's absolutely no reason why you couldn't. Changing the setting would just be one additional thing you'd have to remember to do everytime you zoomed the lens in or out. Forgetting to do so and shooting with it set way wrong would probably be worse than shooting with stabilization just turned off. I would imagine if you are within 2-4 MM of the "actual" focal length, any anomoly in the IS system would be negligible.

It's too bad you cannot turn an IS focal length adjustment setting on and it open a box up in the super control panel, making it a little faster than having to menu dive to get to that setting. In any event and whatever a pain it is to use as designed, it IS faster and more effective than making the same adjustment on a Panasonic body .
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Old Jun 17, 2011, 1:35 PM   #14
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The ibis is good to 1200mm from some of the olympus stuff I read, 70-300 is no problem for it. Even with a 2x TC.

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Originally Posted by Tullio View Post
One of the greatest advantages of the Oly cameras over Panas is IBIS, which will work with MF lenses as well. However, in the case of zoom MF lenses, I'm not sure how effective IS will be. A 70-300mm lens offers a wide FL range. Obviously changing the FL in camera every time you zoom in/out is not feasible. So, I guess the best way to go is to pick a value somewhere in the middle or closer to the FL you'll use the most. For instance, if you are shooting birds with a long zoom, you know that most shots will be taken with the lens at 300mm, so setting the FL between 220 and 300 should work.
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Old Jun 17, 2011, 4:12 PM   #15
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In any event and whatever a pain it is to use as designed, it IS faster and more effective than making the same adjustment on a Panasonic body .
Well I'm glad to hear that! Those words are comforting. I'm not great about getting around menu's, but I am slowly learning to get around in the Oly's menu.
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Old Jun 20, 2011, 9:55 AM   #16
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The ibis is good to 1200mm from some of the olympus stuff I read, 70-300 is no problem for it. Even with a 2x TC.
I think the debate is not whether the IBIS works with a 70-300mm lens or not but which IS setting one should have when using manual zoom lenses. My guess is that knowing the FL, the IS system adjusts the amount of stabilization needed based on that. Since the longer the FL the more stabilization you need, I wonder if the best practice when using long zooms is to simply set the IS to the end of the FL range (300mm in this case).
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Old Jun 24, 2011, 1:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tullio View Post
................... My guess is that knowing the FL, the IS system adjusts the amount of stabilization needed based on that. Since the longer the FL the more stabilization you need, I wonder if the best practice when using long zooms is to simply set the IS to the end of the FL range (300mm in this case).

That is the method that I use on my Oly E series 4/3 bodies when using manual lens, and it seems to work fine. I would think that would also hold true for the Oly m4/3 bodies.
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Old Jun 24, 2011, 2:52 PM   #18
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I guess you could consider it a sort-of "spot" image stabilization(!), using an adjustment normally only used for 300mm to stabilize a shot taken at any focal length wider.

It sounded right just thinking about it, but one never knows....
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