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Old Apr 9, 2012, 8:26 AM   #1
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Default Time Lapse?

I want to do Time Lapse when I go to the grand canyon in two weeks. I was thinking I could do it using the anti-shock setting as described here;

http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_se...asp?id=1552#49


I have a cheap wired remote that has a slider that can hold the shutter down. I was thinking I could put the camera in sequential shooting mode with 30 second anti-shock and push the button and hold down to achieve a 30 second interval time lapse.

So I attempted a time lapse on the sunrise today;

lens: Jupiter-8 50mm f2 @ f2.8
Camera Mode: P
Sequential shooting
Anti-shock: 30 seconds

Found out the hard way that exposure is locked from the first picture on

double checking the manual

"During sequential shooting, focus, exposure, and white balance are locked at the first frame (during [S-AF], [MF]).

so looks like Olympus gives only limited time-lapse abilities out of the box. I am guessing I will need one of the remotes with timer.
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Old Apr 9, 2012, 12:46 PM   #2
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I would have to do some studying to see exactly what would be required. You'd think time lapse would require some sort of ability for the camera to adjust exposure since lighting is so variable during different times of the days.

Just another one of those parts of the "system" that needs to be addressed at some point. Both Olympus and Panasonic have concentrated on bodies and lenses, paying very limited attention to just about anything else.
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Old Apr 9, 2012, 1:13 PM   #3
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Greg,

Thanks for your reply. I have an inquiry to Olympus support with hopes of getting clarification or a way to set it up so that the camera can meter for each shot when in sequential shooting mode. I have looked through the manual and don't find any way around it being mentioned.

Barring that I am looking at getting a RM-UC1 compatible remote that includes a timer which is a sure fire way to make this work. The only problem with this path is the one I want (wireless) is only available from Hong Kong and likely won't be here in time for the trip to the grand canyon leaving on 4/21. Probably going to grab a wired one if all else fails, it is a shame as I already have a wired one but w/o timer.
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Old Apr 9, 2012, 11:41 PM   #4
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I can understand the thinking behind the camera's first frame determines exposure/white balance/focus. Having the camera "self adjust" could result in wildly different exposures, so your sequence could look very uneven.

If the camera could be set to have upper/lower limits that only change say one third to one half a stop between exposures...
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 8:54 AM   #5
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KulaCube, in the case of a day to night type time lapse you really are taking the camera from one end of the exposure meter to the other, i.e. from very low light to very bright light.

At this point I am probably going to get this remote/timer unit;

http://www.rainbowimaging.biz/shop/p...id_product=283

Although it is listed as for Panasonic the remote is universal and can be connected to most cameras with the right cord. After researching a bit I found the cord for Olympus is CL-UC1. I have emailed with rainbowimaging (I've had good experiences with all my m4/3 lens adapter orders from them) and they say they have the correct cord so I should be all set, just waiting on an invoice and hopefully it is shipping from NYC where the adapters ship from I should have it in time.

To summarize what makes this unit so nice is that it consists of three pieces, the receiver, cord and remote. Because it is modular the cord can be used with the remote as a wired timer/remote or the cord can be used with the receiver and the remote be used for wireless. Also because the cord is a separate component it can be replaced for a few bucks and now the unit can be used with a different camera, the end that goes into the remote or the receiver is a 3.5mm headset type and the other end is specific to the camera.

For time lapse people suggest using it as a wired remote to save battery power on the receiver, there are a couple youtube time-lapse videos done with this remote fwiw.

I think I will like the wireless capability for birding as it would provide further stand off distance when the camera is tripod mounted and pre-focused on something like a bird feeder.

I'll be sure to share my results, hoping to get in a dry run before I leave.
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 3:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olympus support
Dear Sir,

Thank you for contacting Olympus with your inquiry.

Unfortunately there is not a way to set up the camera this way and also be able to have it meter every shot differently. The time-lapse method described on the page you referenced does work well in most situations as a work-around, but taking a time lapse sequence of a sunrise presents complications.

When the camera takes its light reading and takes the first picture, it is very dark. The camera will push the aperture wider and the shutter speed slower to evenly expose THAT image. Of course every subsequent image will be brighter, so with those settings locked in it quickly overexposes the pictures that come after.

One way around this would be to use a third party triggering device that has its own built-in intervalometer, but of course you would not want to have to buy another piece of equipment for this project.

There is one other suggestion I can make for a sunrise time-lapse sequence. I want to stress that this may not be perfect the first time, but after getting some experience it should work more favorably. Instead of using Program mode, switch to Manual. Manual mode leaves it to you to make the settings normally made by the camera. This is where it gets tricky. I suppose you have an idea of where you would like the sequence to stop. The main thing is your manual exposure settings need to be for that picture. So, you will learn from experience what works best for the kind of sunrise you are shooting.

By this method, the first photos will be much darker, and as the sun rises the light will slowly rise to the point it is evenly exposed based on your settings. This is a trial and error method, but the end result should be a sunrise that starts off nice and dark, and becomes brighter as time goes on. If you want some settings to try at the outset, try about ISO 200, 1/60th shutter speed, F11. That is an estimate based on some research I did. Odds are you will have to adjust that slightly to get it just right. You can also take a picture at ISO 200 in aperture priority mode (at whatever aperture setting you want to use) at where you would want the sequence to stop, and use those settings on the next sunrise.

If there is anything else I can assist you with, please reply to this e-mail.

This is your Email Response Tracking Number: 2447724. Please use this number if you need to refer to this email for further assistance. You can also browse our website by visiting www.olympusamerica.com

Regards,

Sam
Digital Technical Support
Olympus Imaging America Inc.
www.olympusamerica.com

You can also contact us directly by phone:
Olympus Digital Technical Support: 888-553-4448 9 a.m. - 9 p.m. Mon.-Fri. (EST)
well that seals it
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 11:00 PM   #7
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got my tw282 wirelss shutter timer today. I bought the cannon version which comes with the cannon N3 connection cable in the package. In order to use it with the olympus cameras which use the rm-uc1 (all but the e-pl1 I believe) I needed to buy a separate cable cl-uc1.

the unit and the cable together were $65 with free priority shipping.

I did a quick test and it worked perfectly both wired mode and wireless. One thing to note which is true with all the shutter releases is that you need to plug it in when the camera is off and turn the camera on with the cable plugged in. Plugging in the cable after the camera is already on and it won't work ( I learned this using my $6 wired shutter release...)

still need to figure out the time lapse program but it is a nice little unit and for those folks who have a DSLR from canon, nikon, olympus or others this is really great since you can use it with both provided you have the cables. I think I may try to sell the canon cable on ebay as I don't need it and should be able to recoup a few bucks off of it.
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