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Old Dec 28, 2012, 1:46 PM   #1
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Default Beginner focusing and metering

Hi!

So I have been messing around with my E-PL3 (have kit 14-42, pan 20/1.7, and pan 75-200? -something like that, lenses) since I bought it about 9 months ago trying to learn photography after moving up from a P&S and have been loving it so far (even though has been more difficult than I thought ).

How do you all handle focusing best on the Pen cameras? (I see folks with dSLRs talking about selecting focus points which I have not seen on my camera).

Do you routinely use AFL and AEL?

And what are you really selecting when you select one of the "squares" from the grid that appears across the LED screen when you hit the L button on the dial? (is that just for spot metering?)

Thank you for any advice!
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 2:48 PM   #2
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Hi!

I'm not very good at this but I'll give you advice anyhow.

I have an E-PL2, but I imagine it's mostly the same.

I have a button "programmed" to be an auto exposure lock. I don't use it very often, but it's helpful.

For focus lock, I use the half-press and recompose technique mostly (half-pressing "locking" the focus). I mostly keep the focus box centered though I hear that can be bad sometimes.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 8:01 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axanar View Post
Hi!

So I have been messing around with my E-PL3 (have kit 14-42, pan 20/1.7, and pan 75-200? -something like that, lenses) since I bought it about 9 months ago trying to learn photography after moving up from a P&S and have been loving it so far (even though has been more difficult than I thought ).

How do you all handle focusing best on the Pen cameras? (I see folks with dSLRs talking about selecting focus points which I have not seen on my camera).

Do you routinely use AFL and AEL?

And what are you really selecting when you select one of the "squares" from the grid that appears across the LED screen when you hit the L button on the dial? (is that just for spot metering?)

Thank you for any advice!
The "focus points" that the dslr people are referring to are essentially the same
as the 'green squares' that you are looking at on your LCD when taking a photo.
On your camera, it is the area which the camera has decided it will concentrate on when focusing.

You have the ability to move that square anywhere that you like on the screen. You can also vary the size of the square so that you can zero in on a particularly small subject-if you so choose.

Please read the first post on this forum as it deals specifically with your question. It will explain how to adjust the 'focus box" size on your camera.

Another suggestion: I know it's boring as heck, but do read your manual that came with the camera. it's long, confusing and very dry. But, if you're really interested in improving your skill set, that would be the first step in doing so.

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Old Dec 29, 2012, 12:41 PM   #4
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Personally I'm with Sammy. I find it a lot easier (and faster) to have the focus set to center (and the smallest area possible so the camera will focus on the object I want and not the surrounding area), point to the subject I want to focus on, half press the shutter, recompose and shoot. I do use the AEL all the time because I set the metering to spot. Then I move the camera around the framed area looking for the best exposure. Once I'm happy with it, I lock it and then I deal with the focus. Of course this technique is not very efficient if you wish to capture subjects in motion unless the overall exposure once locked is good even if the subject moves.
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 8:06 PM   #5
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On my "vintage" e-pl1 more often than not I have everything set to manual, exposure sampling at spot. But when I automate I have exposure set to centre weighted, and then follow about the same method as Tullio above. Oh, mode set to Program. If I'm going to concern myself with aperture or shutter, then I return to manual. Old habits I guess. Or you will find me with an old Nikkor mounted at f8 give or take half a stop and manual adjusting shutter speed and focus. Love the Nikkors, but always seem to wish I had brought my oly zooms.
But the best advice is to follow Zig's suggestion and RTM. Badly laid out as it is, it does provide a wealth of information that allows you to develop your methods for handling the camera to get the results that will please you and that's what it is all about.
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 12:54 AM   #6
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I use AFL for those times the subject isn't going to move...I'd switch to MF and use AFL only when distance or zoom is changed.

I don't bother with AEL because in those situations I use M mode.
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Old Jan 2, 2013, 3:10 PM   #7
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Thanks! Very helpful info. I have dug through the manual a couple times, but it must not have "clicked" for me
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Old Jan 2, 2013, 3:38 PM   #8
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Best to download the full manual here.
http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_se...ls.asp?id=1572

And to make sure you have the latest software for your camera here.
http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_se...p?id=1572&os=w
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