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Old Jan 29, 2014, 3:02 PM   #11
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I wonder if it would be worthwhile to sell the Panny 25 on EBay and pick this up. Probably not, but I find myself liking my images from my olympus 12-50 more than the 25.
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Old Jan 29, 2014, 3:07 PM   #12
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I thought the M1 worked very well with 4/3 lenses.
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Nah, I don't think this is the one you want if you want for using your 4/3 lenses.

I'm excited to hear more feedback about the 25mm lens. I bet it's as good as the 45.
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Old Jan 29, 2014, 4:19 PM   #13
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Default EM-1 vs 4/3 lenses

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I thought the M1 worked very well with 4/3 lenses.
My experience : The EM-1 is working well with my 4/3 lenses (maybe not as fast as the E-30 ... but fairly close). However, the EM-10 will NOT support the PDAF so it will be like the EM-5 (which is so so for those lenses).

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Old Jan 29, 2014, 6:54 PM   #14
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Yeah, the E-M1 is it if you want support for the four-thirds lenses. I definitely won't be updating the firmware in my E-M5 to use the 50-200 f2.8-3.5 for sure . That lens is reserved for the E-M1.
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Old Jan 29, 2014, 10:36 PM   #15
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Firmware update works easy and quick. The small AF boxes are very nice and remain in place as your default until you change them. There are not as many at 5 rows across and 7 columns down vs. the 9 across and 9 down in the E-M1, but that's probably about as many as they could do. Switching back & forth between the E-M1 and E-M5 finders really gives you an appreciation for the bigger E-M1 finder even though the E-M5 finder is really nice too. It's also much nicer having the live histogram and digital level available at the same time, which the E-M5 still can't do. Can't tell you how many images I've had to level in post processing because my own internal level is well short of accurate, even with the grid lines on.

The only thing I can see the firmware doing to the E-M5 setup was, I had to reset the date and time. All the other settings I had remained intact.
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Old Jan 30, 2014, 9:17 AM   #16
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[QUOTE=Greg Chappell;1367100] Can't tell you how many images I've had to level in post processing because my own internal level is well short of accurate, even with the grid lines on.

This may sound funny but I have never used the histogram to adjust pictures. Why? Because I wouldn't even know where the histogram should be after making adjustments. I have to believe there are others with the same thoughts.
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Old Jan 30, 2014, 11:25 PM   #17
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James, once you have a good look at exposure with the histogram I'll bet you use it all the time. Between using the histogram in camera for getting the exposures and then in post for getting the "print". Just remember to nudge just to the edge and you'll never blow a highlight again...
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Old Jan 31, 2014, 9:06 AM   #18
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Thanks Kula, I will have to Google when I get time so I understand what is it I am looking for during adjustment of the histogram. I'm sure you have to know what to adjust to get the results.
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James, once you have a good look at exposure with the histogram I'll bet you use it all the time. Between using the histogram in camera for getting the exposures and then in post for getting the "print". Just remember to nudge just to the edge and you'll never blow a highlight again...
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Old Jan 31, 2014, 9:52 AM   #19
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If you understand basic exposure rules, histograms are easy. If the moving histogram falls off the right-hand side of the graph, you have (overexposed) clipped highlights, if it falls off the left-hand side, you've (underexposed) clipped the blacks

I expose digitally the exact same way I used to expose slide film, for the highlights. I adjust my exposures until the right-hand edge of the moving histogram just starts touching the border to be sure and retain all highlight detail. E-M5 and E-M1 files are so mallable the shadows and blacks can be raised in post processing to just about whatever level you want.

My favorite way of controlling exactly where the exposure is going is to shoot in manual exposure mode and manually setting the ISO to what I want. Once you start setting all three manually, every setting change you make will affect the histogram and it's easy to see after a while what any change will do. If you open the aperture up or slow the shutter speed the histogram starts moving right. If you close the aperture down or increase the shutter speed, things darken and the histogram moves to the left.

If you leave ISO on auto, changing the aperture or shutter speed may not affect exposure at all as the camera may adjust the ISO to keep things equal. Ditto if you use program, shutter speed or aperture priority, and I don't particularly care to have to deal with constantly adjusting exposure compensation, locking exposure and changing metering patterns to get the results I want.

Last edited by Greg Chappell; Jan 31, 2014 at 9:55 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2014, 9:56 AM   #20
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Thanks Greg. I have just printed out your instructions and will play around with it. Thanks again! I guess I'm not at the stage most of you fellas are at right now.
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