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Old Jul 1, 2014, 1:25 AM   #1
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Default CPL Experiment

A little experiment to see the difference between the strongest and weakest setting of a CPL. The camera was in Aperture mode set at f8 and ISO100. One would expect to see a difference in the amount of reflection on water but a couple other things happened as well. First and most obvious, the color is different. Secondly, at the CPLs strongest setting it acted like a mild ND filter and slowed the shutter from 1/40 to 1/25 which blurred the waterfall some.

I wish I had thought to completely remove the CPL and take a third exposure. Oh well, maybe next time.
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Old Jul 1, 2014, 6:35 AM   #2
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Was the WB set to Auto or on manual setting ?

I use C-PL's a lot at the beach to get a deeper more realistic blue on the sky and water. I don't recall seeing much colour change, but I do see an improvement in contrast usually. I'm using a Fujiyama C-PL on my 58mm kits lenses and a Hoya HD C-PL on my 50-200mm F2.8 Oly lens. Currently I'm looking for a Hoya HD C-PL for the 12-60mm F2.8 before the summer season.
I think that a C-PL will reduce light by about 50% at best because that's how a polariser works, I think that's one F stop more (?) compared to without one.
Martin
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Old Jul 1, 2014, 5:52 PM   #3
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I've heard it at least will change the colors in fall foliage, don't see why it wouldn't do the same for green leaves (altering how the reflections come off of the shiny "bits")
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Old Jul 1, 2014, 11:56 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by mr.sneezy View Post
Was the WB set to Auto or on manual setting?

Martin
I think it was on auto WB and I'll bet that contributed to the difference. As you can kinda see in the image with the reflection there was some blue sky and some clouds. Sometimes I'd have WB set for clouds then the sun would come out and I'd forgot to switch it to sun. Or vice versa. I put it on auto so I could forget about it. Live and learn.
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Old Jul 2, 2014, 1:44 PM   #5
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Proper WB is like some kind of dark magic to me and I don't think I'll ever figure it out.
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Old Jul 2, 2014, 5:04 PM   #6
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I think you'd be a lot better off using "Daylight" white balance anytime you use the CPL and only switch to cloudy or part shade if you need to warm up a scene as if you were using an 81A or Moose's CPL.

Otherwise, you would be neutralizing the effect of the CPL in a lot of situations.
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Old Jul 2, 2014, 11:24 PM   #7
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Proper WB is like some kind of dark magic to me and I don't think I'll ever figure it out.
Me too Sammy. I'm starting to get it but I'm far from using custom menu to set WB to a specific Kelvin. I took a photography class a couple years ago and the instructor pushed shooting in all manual. However, she did say if you need to leave something on auto it should probably be WB. I took it to heart. Not to mention I usually shoot in aperture mode.
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Old Jul 2, 2014, 11:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBbuilder467 View Post
I think you'd be a lot better off using "Daylight" white balance anytime you use the CPL and only switch to cloudy or part shade if you need to warm up a scene as if you were using an 81A or Moose's CPL.

Otherwise, you would be neutralizing the effect of the CPL in a lot of situations.
Thank you, thank you, BBuilder! I'm writing that down. It will make life much easier.
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