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Old Nov 17, 2014, 5:39 AM   #11
TG
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Originally Posted by chiPersei View Post
Thanks for the info Tom. Looks like you've been doing this type of work for some time. Can you give us a general idea of the settings? Best I can tell the scene mode sets it at 1/25 sec, f8 and lets the ISO float. My biggest question is do you use any of the Image Stabilization modes?

Thanks!
Have been shooting Motorsport for a while, defiantly not as often as I use to and from the wrong side of the fence (amateur not a pro). Use to shoot Canon but sold all my gear a few years back.

For straight pans use your shutter speed setting depends what effect your after and how fast your subject is moving, e.g. on a long straight a race car is travelling faster so you can get away with using faster shutter speeds and still get nice motion blur in your back ground. When a car is travelling slower you have to use slower shutter speeds to get more motion blur in the background (with slower shutter speeds it is harder to get a completely sharp image due to the movement and vibrations of the car).
So my shutter speed setting depends on where I'm shooting and what effect I want, If my aperture gets too small I drop the ISO or use a ND filter, use Shutter Priority or Manual mode and use C-AF mode with a single , grouped focus points or MF (pick a spot on the track)
if the situation requires it e.g. the C-AF does not have enough time to lock on with the shot I am trying to get (car traveling away from the camera).
I don't use the panning IS mode (Only one of my Canon lenses had IS and it didn't have a panning mode), have played around with it with mixed results not sure of the benefit have to experiment a bit more.
I can pan handheld or with a monopod (find the monopod does keep the camera more level and helps with slower shutter speeds). Some situations prefer to handhold as in photo #3 car going downhill or if the car is travelling fast.
You can see that in photo #6 I had a shutter speed of 1/320, I don't have as much blur in the background or motion blur in the wheels but the whole car is sharp compared #8 & 10 (1/40 sec) but a lot more blur in the background & wheels.

Here's one at 1/80 sec most of the car is sharp except for the rear wing (vibration) and front.



For 3/4 pans car moving across and toward you, You do have to use higher shutter speed because the car is moving towards you but go to high the car will look static. For the shots that I posted I was between 1/200 to 1/400, I still have motion in wheels and I am panning following the car along. If I was not the car would be blurred unless you use a higher shutter speed. Even at these shutter speeds there is some blur in the grass, ripple strip & road. I do like to use a monopod for these shots, But I don't like the balance of the camera with the monopod off the body when using my 75-300mm f4.8-6.7 II, the new Pro lenses will feel much more balanced when using a monopod with the tri pod collar.

Here is a shot which was taken with my Canon 1D MKII N and 400mm f5.6 L lens at 1/40 sec, single focus point set for front of car. Its a tough shot to get at that shutter speed with the front of the car sharp with it coming towards you. Haven't been able to get a similar shot at this shutter speed with the E-M1 the C-AF isn't quite there yet. This is one of my all time favourite shots the front of the car is tack sharp when viewed at 100%, the back of the car has a lot of motion blur (the effect I was after) due to my shutter speed, focus point being on the front of the car, the car travelling through a corner (different movement compared to front & vibration). The car in the background gets double the motion blur effect because it's travelling into the corner the opposite direction to my panning. To me this shot has a great feeling of speed with the effect I got.



Sorry If I have rambled on too much and posting a photo taken with a Canon camera (hope I don't get banned from Olympus Micro Four Thirds forum ) but I hope some of these tips do help anyone reading and they are relevant to a lot of other sport or action photography.

Tom.

Last edited by TG; Nov 18, 2014 at 7:06 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2014, 7:58 AM   #12
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Sorry If I have rambled on too much and posting a photo taken with a Canon camera (hope I don't get banned from Olympus Micro Four Thirds forum ) but I hope some of these tips do help anyone reading and they are relevant to a lot of other sport or action photography.
Thanks so much for the narrative, Tom. I've followed your motosports photography several years now and marvel at the photos you make. I'm an old motorcycle (motocross & off-road, thinking Chad Reed ) guy so my preference to your work is of the bikes, (I love your WSB & motoGP photography) but certainly I appreciate the cars too.

Thanks again for the 'technique' post .... Bob
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Old Nov 17, 2014, 12:22 PM   #13
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as others have said these do look great, thanks for sharing
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Old Nov 17, 2014, 7:11 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by TG View Post
Here is a shot which was taken with my Canon 1D MKII N and 400mm f5.6 L lens at 1/40 sec, single focus point set for front of car. Its a tough shot to get at that shutter speed with the front of the car sharp with it coming towards you.

Sorry If I have rambled on too much and posting a photo taken with a Canon camera (hope I don't get banned from Olympus Micro Four Thirds forum ) but I hope some of these tips do help anyone reading and they are relevant to a lot of other sport or action photography.

Tom.
Thank you, thank you, Tom. No such thing as rambling on too much and we all appreciate the tutelage. So what I picked up is there is no one specific way to do it. Like photography in general, different shooting conditions require different settings and methods. A Panning Scene Mode may be a start but if you want more creative control of the results, learn your camera.

Drivers might freak out but I'm thinking I might go downtown and practice on the traffic.

BTW- that last one really is something special. Should be in a magazine.
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Old Nov 19, 2014, 4:22 PM   #15
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Very nice set indeed !
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Old Nov 27, 2014, 7:43 AM   #16
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Which body did you use ?
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Old Nov 30, 2014, 8:04 AM   #17
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Which body did you use ?
Use the O-MD E-M1.
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