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Old Sep 14, 2002, 11:24 PM   #1
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Default C-2100UZ noise today.. gone tomorrow

Okay, Its been 2 weeks (only) with my C-2100UZ and I've taken a good bit of pictures (not thousands but probably hundreds). I'm now shooting in both TIFF and SHQ modes to compare the results. I think I might go with SHQ for general shooting, and TIFF for set up shots.

Here's my problem: Some pictures when viewed at 100% are flawless, no noise and just perfect, and some others taken just moments after have this graininess to them, giving skin tones a blotchy look. This is not really a camera question, but a How do I get the majority of my pictures clear?

I'm now slowly learning about settings in Manual mode. I bought a photography book, "Taking great photographs" aboard the Logos II today (and used the opportunity to take pics while on board). However this book addresses traditional photography, which is the background stuff I need to learn. However are there any special considerations I need to take into account to take great pictures with my UZi?
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 1:57 PM   #2
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Default Are low light conditions causing your noise?

Digital cameras need LOTS of light for the best exposure! Check and see if the ones having noise are because of low light conditions. Take the same picture again using flash and see if your noise goes away. If you're already using flash, make sure you haven't exceeded your flash's range of about 13 feet. Your Olympus C-2100 will take properly exposed flash pictures, even under closeup conditions, thanks to TTL flash metering.

The bottom line? Use flash whenever you aren't outside on a bright sunny day to ensure proper lighting! Experimentation will let you know when you DON'T need flash. Hope this helps!

P.S. I use HQ mode all the time, and haven't seen the need to use SHQ mode. You can put about twice as many pics on your Smartmedia card, and the difference in quality isn't enough to make me switch to SHQ mode...
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 2:14 PM   #3
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Kirk,
Check this out,
Gary

http://www.steves-digicams.com/under50.html
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Old Sep 17, 2002, 12:30 AM   #4
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I'm actually adverse to use flash unless I need it to fill in shadows. But actually my problem comes in daylight pictures (I expect noise at night). The point is some brightly lit daylight pics are have little red/green speckles when inspected at 200%+ but others are flawless. Probably I expect too much of a digicam. I've got quite a bit of excellent pictures, but some have this disturbing noise, or is it some shots don't get properly exposed.

I was reading that there are situations on sunny days when I should use Spot metering instead of the regular ESP.

And about that list, I think I've got most of it (been using Photoshop for 7 years now). The one item on the list that I realised that I needed last night was a tripod... any suggestions? I tried taking some moon shots but I realize that I don't have the steadiest of hands.. making matters worse is the fact that the earth is moving and the moon is moving every 1/15 of a second. I've read some pretty good articles on taking moon pictures... however they all seem to recomment switching off IS and using a tripod. Yeah back to the tripod question... any suggestions?
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Old Sep 17, 2002, 8:01 AM   #5
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If you're concerned that the exposure is causing the problem, do a few test shots using the auto bracketing feature of your camera. You can take a series of 5 shots from -2.0 to +2.0 EV in 1.0 increments. Check out your manual on how to do this. Then, compare the five shots for the presence of the red/green speckles you are experiencing. That should point you in the right directions...

Another thing to check is your ISO setting. You shouldn't get any noise at ISO 100 under well-lit conditions. Check the EXIF from one of your speckled shots and see if auto-ISO set it to 200 or higher ISO, where you are more prone to get noise. If so, then set ISO manually to 100 to eliminate this problem if it is a concern.
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Old Sep 17, 2002, 11:34 PM   #6
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Thanks LG, the problem was in the ISO settings. Although these were daylight pictures auto ISO sometimes went to 200 and 230 etc...

Today I took a bunch of pics and set the ISO to 100, they came out great. Thank goodness for the exif viewer.

Now I've got to figure out the difference between the different types of metering. Any help out there? I'm actually asking specifically to the metering modes available on the Olympus digicams; when and why (and how) should I use the different kinds?

Thanks for the help so far; I'm still getting a handle on this camera, so give me till the end of the month until I can post pics that I'm proud of.
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Old Sep 18, 2002, 12:43 PM   #7
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Default Use ESP for most, Spot Metering for some...

Quote:
Originally posted by kuemauve

Now I've got to figure out the difference between the different types of metering. Any help out there? I'm actually asking specifically to the metering modes available on the Olympus digicams; when and why (and how) should I use the different kinds?
Kirk, better than 95% of the time I use the auto (ESP) exposure setting. Be sure to prefocus every shot; when you do, whatever's in the square will be given the highest weighting when determining proper exposure. I have a colleague who has a particularly dark complexion; he told me he's always too dark in group pictures. When he's in the picture, I usually set the exposure on his face, and then frame the picture, which achieves the desired results with my C-2100.

Under harsh backlighting condition, or where you have a particularly dark subject that must be properly exposed, switch to Spot Metering, in which the exposure of the entire picture is based solely on what' s in the square. Prefocus/meter on the dark subject, and then frame your picture before snapping the pic. Try it out until you are comfortable with the results you should expect when using Spot Metering. It's easy to overexpose the rest of the picture, so be careful!

I haven't experimented with the Multi-Spot metering much....I found it too involved to do unless you are under studio conditions and have lots of time to set up your shot.

This is just from my limited experience, and I'm sure there's plenty of folks out there with a lot more expertise on this subject. I'd really like to hear what they have to say on this subject, so I'll be quiet and give them a chance!
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Old Sep 21, 2002, 10:43 PM   #8
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Default Long exposures and light

Okay, thanks for the advice, my photos are now clean. Now I've got a new but related problem. I couldn't resist taking some long exposure shots tonight, and experimented with the red/white streaks of car lights. Some came out beautifully, with minimal blur. What do you guys recommend for pics like these?
> Image Stablization on or off?
> How long an exposure? I did 4 seconds, and although the cars came out beautifully the street lights were over exposed.
> Do people generally use tripods for these pictures?
> Should I adjust the ISO from 100 for these pictures?
> Photographing buildings at night, high aperature and long shutter speeds or one of the other?

Well I'm just full of questions... trying to take every kind of picture. One thing I've noticed is that I can get some interesting things with lights and long exposures when I move the camera around... some of them actually look like I intended the crazy light show.

Thanks for the help so far.
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Old Sep 26, 2002, 10:33 AM   #9
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Glad you're enjoying your camera! I would ALWAYS leave image stabilization ON (can anyone tell me a reason to leave it OFF?). As for blurring the head/taillights, check your manual. Under manual operation, there is a SLOW1 and SLOW2 setting, one of which is tailored just for that effect. Let us know what you find out-- any results of experimentation with your camera may benefit others here...
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Old Sep 28, 2002, 5:14 AM   #10
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Okay, here's what I've resorted to doing in the absence of a tripod. Resting the camera on a flast surface and prefocusing on the subjects (at this point if I want intentional blur I take off IS). Then I use the remote (which I figured out what it's for - to eliminate camera shake from pressing the shutter release during a long exposure) and voila I get a good tail light pic.

Now night pics, there is a trick to this: Use a tripod. Okay maybe not a trick, but it helps to have a bench of rock (as in my case out in the ocean) nearby where you can rest the camera and get some good long exposures. It does take some experimenting with different amounts of light to see how long you want the exposure for. I've been operating in full manual mode a few weeks now, to really get the hang of why I'm using different settings. Sometimes if you use too long an exposure at dusk you an end up with a white picture, so check your aperture and shutter speed (sometimes less is more). Also for night pictures with lots of light sources (street lights etc) in the frame, the longer the exposure the brighter the picture, but there comes a point (depending on the brightness of the scene) when it would have a negative effect.

Some other cool pictures that I've gotten wre from brief exposures as well using a circular polarixer on water. I've managed to create some pictures that look like fractals created in 3D programs.

Anyone want samples before I put up a gallery let me know.
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