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Old Aug 26, 2005, 10:12 PM   #11
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ok...I'll eat crow or fossils as the case may be

wow...great pics....

you have a steady hand....I don't think I can go below 1/30

You and another person are selling me on this camera! see those pics too on that forum

http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=66518&forum_id=22&jump_t o=364764#p364764

thanks

gregg
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Old Aug 26, 2005, 10:14 PM   #12
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Old Aug 26, 2005, 10:39 PM   #13
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only 2 reasons why I was thinking about the 8080over the 7070...140mm and when I looked through the viewfinder I was blown away by the quality of the electronic viewfinder...It was the closest thing I have found to a d-slr with that through the lens feel withought looking like a grainy mess like so many do

just a thought
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Old Aug 27, 2005, 7:31 AM   #14
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I'm a C-8080 owner and thought I would share a few things that may be relevant to your decision:

- The C8080 writes at about 6x and the C7070 writes at about 12x. If you shoot in RAW mode often, the 7070 is noticably faster.

- Due to the above, don't spend extra money on a CF card faster than about 20x, as the speed will only be utilized in a card reader, not while shooting.

- Although your current FL-20 does not have a focus assist lamp, if you ever upgrade to an FL-36 or FL-50 (which does), the 7070 makes use of it while the 8080 does not. Both are TTL compatable, however.

- Most offbrand BLM-1 batteries on eBay have nearly the same capacity as the 5x more expensive official ones. Battery life is very good, so you will most likely only need one spare unless you do an insane amount of shooting.

- I don't know about the 7070's lens, but don't get an 8080 if you ever need a strong telephoto. The 8080's lens goes out to 140mm, or 196mm with Olympus' very expensive 1.4x teleconverter. Due to the large diameter of the (very nice!) lens, it will be next to impossible to find any other teleconverter that works well with it.

I love my C8080, but due to somegripes (slower write speed, max 196mm telephoto w/ expensive addons, doesn't use FL-36/50 AF light) it isn't right for everyone. I hope I've been helpful.


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Old Aug 27, 2005, 1:23 PM   #15
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thanks Vlad for all that info

I know very little about the flashes for olympus...I had been using a generic vivitar (low voltage) and running my camera in manual...it's kind of a pain. I recently got the fl-20 on ebay new...and haven't really used it yet as the internal flash has been fine and I have to carry that bracket and cable...Olympus tell a hUGE lie on their site. I called them about about it...I don'ty know if they changed it yet. It says, you can use their bracket if you don't have a hot shoe. The real comment should be that you MUST use their bracket....that bracket costed me about $70!!!! THere is no plug on the flash for for their flash cable. Unlike my vivitar, you have to plug Olympus' expensive cable in the bracket that holds the flash. What a scam!

I know little about external flashes. You are telling me that the other two have assist lamps built in...I didn't know that an external flash has an auto assist lamp. Hell, that would be something for all those people who complained that their c-5000 (which has a hot shoe) was terrible in low light. Of course you would spend as much or more for the light as the cost of a c-5000 which can be had for about $189

Does the olympus TTL hook up with the flashin any way aide in a cameras abilty to focus in quicker lower lightlight without the assist lamp? i am assuming it just allows me to use faster shutter speeds/higher f stops.

I was unaware that the 7070 is THAT much faster in it's write time. And that 140 mm does make a difference, I suppose,BUT I have to keep reminding myslef that even without a conversion lens I will have a lot more room to crop with a 7mp pic at 110mm then my current 105mm and 3mp....I'd get about 150 with my 1.4 olympus add on.

As far as the write speeds, I would assume (forgive that word) that either camera's write speed would be noticeably faster in the least compressed JPG than my 3040 using smart media cards...it seems like 2-3 secs between shots.

I suppose I could sell me fl-20 and bracket and cable on ebay...if I wanted too

the 7070 is looking better everyday.....but I do love that electronic viewfinder on the c-8080. (so many of them are horribly annoying to look thru)

thanks again

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Old Aug 27, 2005, 3:22 PM   #16
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gregg,

The reason for the runaround is that the Olympus flashes were designed for the E-series cameras, not the C-series cameras. Adding their flash TTL logic to the C-series cameras seemed to be more of an afterthought.

Sadly, Olympus accessories are very expensive, even on eBay. I'd really like to get the HLD30 battery holder / portrait grip for my C8080 but it's over $100 in most places, $80 if you shop around.

No, the flash's TTL itself does not in any way aid your focusing ability. It does not allow you to use higher shutter speeds or f-stops, either*. (*In the case of the FL-50, which supports "FP" mode, fast syncing IS possible which allows you to use the flash synced up to speeds of 1/2000s in the C8080.) All it does is use the camera's metering rather than it's own. Here's a breakdown of TTL mode vs. a flash unit's standalone auto mode:

(TTL) 1. Shutter opens and flash bulb turns on. 2. As the exposure takes place, the camera watches the amount of light collected. When the picture has been properly exposed, the camera sends a message to the flash unit, and the flash unit turns off the flash bulb. 3. The picture is nearly perfectly exposed, as judged by the camera.[EDIT: In TTL mode, the camera alsotriggers a preflash which it uses to meter the exposed image, followed by the steps above. I forgot to include this detail.]


(Auto) Without camera-flash communication a flash will be in auto mode. 1. Shutter opens. 2. Flash unit senses amount of ambient light and precalculates how much power to use. It then activates the flash bulb and releases it's precalculated amount of light. 3. Camera finishes exposure whether that was the correct amount of light or not.


So as you can see, TTL is far more accurate for an auto mode. You will also be able to mount your FL-20 directly onto both cameras -- you will no longer need the bracket and cable. You may want to keep it anyway to distance the flash from the camera and thus reduce redeye further. I mount the FL-50 directly on my C8080 and have not had a single instance of redeye yet, however, the FL-50's flash head sits a bit higher from what I can see. YMMV.

You will notice about the same write speed with both cameras as your current, because you will be writing a 2x bigger file at about 2x the speed. I have a C700 which saves to SmartMedia and it doesn't feel any slower, because of this.

The C8080's EVF is very crisp and visible, however, refresh speed slows down in low light. This could be a problem, say, framing action shots at a sporting event in a dimly lit gym. Optical viewfinders are still superior in low light.

Glad I could help!

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Old Aug 27, 2005, 10:46 PM   #17
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all that makes sense but since I had a generic bracket and an olympus cable one would think you could connect their cable directly to their light...and if you couldn't you would think they would have the (excuse me for saying) decency to to tell you that the bracket is a must for 3040 and 4040 owners on the fl-20 page on the olympus site or you will not be able to use this flash

it sure would have been nice


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Old Aug 27, 2005, 10:54 PM   #18
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you know I have never heard one reveiwer ever say that to improve FOCUS ability in low light you should use a dedicated flash that has an assist lamp that will work as a TTL auto with your camera....

I have to wonder how many other cameras would benefit....like the c-5000..SO MANY people complained about it's low light ability...or what about a minolta flash for the dimage A200 which was another camera I held ina store and really liked the feel of...until I read it's awful performance with focusing problems indoors low light(albeit probably a bit out of my price range anyway)

somereally great advice you gave me, Vlad

thanks

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Old Aug 28, 2005, 10:18 PM   #19
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what someone posted on another 7070 forum

I am a professional photographer...I could also use indoors with flash as well in social settings ( friends in a restaurant etc) I have been forced to return the camera to the dealer.It is completely hopeless at focussing indoors in fairly subdued lighting at any setting other than wide angle at f3.5 or f2.8.Anything at mid zoom or telephoto where the aperture reverts to f4 upwards and the camera is worse than useless.By subdued lighting I am talking about a small room lit by, say, a 60 watt lightbulb.I am very disappointed as none of the reviews published so far refer to this defect


ok...claiming to be a professional, he should know what a hot shoe is used for and have tried his camera with an olympus flash

your thoughts, folks?

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Old Aug 28, 2005, 10:25 PM   #20
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And another posting:

Like 99% of the prosumer digicams out there it is slower when it comes to indoor focusing - that's a given and usually also typical for most of Olympus' Camedia digicams in this type of environment. Put on a flash such as the FL36 or the FL50...or even the FL20 and the focusing increases quite a bit indoors.

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Am I crazy? How will the fl20 flash help the focus. Like you said, it has no assist lamp. Just a pre-flash for red eye (I assume). It seems to me if you use the camera at 100th/ sec, iso 200-400, f2.8 it will focus on mostanything...
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