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Old Aug 28, 2005, 11:43 PM   #21
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and if I get the 7070...I can use my 52mm polarizing and UVfilter after I purchase the 48.5-52mm adapter tube...they run about $10 on ebay

I might even be able to use my olympus 1.45x telephoto...depending on if I get any vignetting (or if the vignetting is tolerable)as it is 46mm at the screwed on end...thus you are dropping the tube 6mm



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Old Aug 29, 2005, 4:38 AM   #22
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You're not crazy -- the FL20, with no focus assist lamp, will not have any effect on the camera's focusing.

Focus speed in low light / low contrast environments seems to be a big pill to swallow for almost any non-SLR camera. Olympus models do seem to be a little slower at it than some others. That being said, I was able to obtain good flash shots in low light with my C-8080 (which is very similar to the 7070). It is my opinion that this "professional" is simply looking for his shots handed to him on a platter, and didn't want to spend the time getting to know the camera required to become effective at using it.

About your teleconverter -- just hold it where it would be in front of the lens and take a few shots in a well lit scene. This will give you an idea how it will be, so you know if it's worth it to even bother with the step up ring. Even if the vignetting is croppable (say, for small subjects like birds), the quality overall may be bad, depending on which one you have. Higher resolution of the camera requires higher resolution of the lens (finer glass) so you will see flaws you may not have noticed much before. For instance, my C-210 1.9x teleconverter works great on my digital video camera (0.35mp), reduces quality but is usable on my C-700 (2.1mp), and is absolutely hideous on the C-8080 (8mp of course). Good luck.
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Old Aug 29, 2005, 6:24 AM   #23
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thanks again

I would usethe step up ring anyway so I can use my 52mm filters regardless of whether I use that teleconverter...and yes I know quality varies from tele to tele...I've had three..the 1.45 olympus (not surprisingly is the best) the other 2x is generic and I am betting like on my 3040...way too much purple fringing in bright light. I also noticed less paralex problems (if that's the right term) with the viefinder...I could actually use the viewfinder with the 1.45x...it wasn't far off...with the other...a good portion of the photo would be cut off if I trusted the viewfinder (instead of using the LCD)as obviously the lens is looking much lower and to the right than what the viewfinder is seeing...of course that problem would not happen with the 8080 as thathas an EVF.

You say that olympus are a bit slower in low light...I hope the 7070 will be equal if not faster at it's focus ability than me 3040..which isn't too bad. I have to wonder if the focus time will decrease with an fl36. I would hope that four years of technology would improve this. And since I never go above iso 100 on my 3040, with the 7070 at 200-400 this should improve focus ability as well.

I have seen an equivalant nikon to my 3040...and it was much slower in room light...hunted and pecked for a while before it locked

Aagin, I always felt safer protecting the lens with a tube and filter...is this crazy? Is the lens sealed from any dust at all without a tube? In other words can dust get in between the cracks when the lens extends in and out? One nice thing about this camera is the abilty of filters to be screwed right on the lens without the tube if I desire to do so

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Old Aug 29, 2005, 6:17 PM   #24
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Once you try your teleconverter please post a few sample photos so the rest of us know what to expect from it. There's always people looking to see how x teleconverter will look on their camera.

It's a wonderful idea to protect the lens with a tube and filter. I had one on my C700 at all times, and good thing too, because the filter and tube are covered in dents and scratches -- showing it served it's purpose.

I don't know about the C7070, but in the case of the C8080, the lens physically extends as you zoom. This means an adapter tube sized for the longest tele position will cause vignetting at the wide position. Worse yet, an adapter sized for the wide position will cause a collision when zooming in past it's length (lens will strike the attached filter/lens). This makes it not practical to use a tube on the C8080 except when mounting a specific lens. So, I keep a 58mm UV filter screwed directly onto the lens barrel and just be very careful with it.
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Old Aug 29, 2005, 6:31 PM   #25
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Gregg:

The lens on your C-3040z is more than twice as bright as the lenses on most compactmodels (including the C-7070WZ you're looking at). Sometimes there is even more difference using zoom (to the favor of the C-3040z). Unfortunately, it's rare to find a compact camera with a lens this bright anymore.

The aperture scale (in one stop increments) goes f/1.0, f/1.4, f/2.0, f/2.8, f/4.0, f/5.6, f/8.0, f/11, f/16, f/22, etc. With each one stop move to a smaller aperture (represented by larger f/stop numbers), you will need shutter speeds twice as long for proper exposure.

The lens on your C-3040z is rated at f/1.8 at it's wide angle position, only stopping down to f/2.6 at full zoom.

The lens on the C-7070WZ is rated at f/2.8 at it's wide angle position, stopping down to f/4.8 at full zoom.

So, take that into consideration when camera shopping. You'll need to shoot at ISO speeds that are attwice as high in order to come close to the shutter speeds you'd get with your C-3040z in low light (with evenmore differenceusing any zoom).

I also saw your comments on ISO 200 being bad on your C-3040z. Well, it's much better than the ISO 200 on most newer cameras, if you expose the scene the same way (noise isworse in underexposed areas). Most newer models also have more sophisticated image processing to help with the noise. If you run the images from your C-3040z through newer noise reduction tools, you may be surprised at the results.

There has been more than one case where I've suggested users on a budget buy this model (C-3040z) used, when they were dissapointed in the low lightperformance of newer cameras.

The 7MP 1/1.8" CCD you're looking at is better than most used in compact models, though. Sony made some improvements with it, compared to the 5MP 1/1.8" CCD it replaced.

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Old Aug 29, 2005, 11:08 PM   #26
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thanks Jim

I know about the 1.8 being the brightest at the time...but I guess I got lucky and may be spoiled by that lens...I bought it 3 1/2 years ago at comp usa as a demo sale...camera only $399.....but...I never imagined that nearly 4 years later that bright lenses would be an issue

I have shot in a very dark restaurant with internal flash...ISO 100, shutter preferred 1/125th, internal flash at 0...both tel and wide and gotten incredible results..I assume it defaulted the f stop to 1.8 or the higher f-stop when I zoomed

that doesn't happen everyday...but....my hope is with my fl-20 or maybe an investment in an fl-36 (with assist lamp and auto zoom adjustments...if that is the correct way to describe it)at 200 iso I should get pretty good results should I need to use the camera in lower light

I was just concerned when a person in a forum on another site said he couldn't get it to lock on the focus with a 60 watt lamp...I suspect he had the iso to low or on auto and din't use an external flash...or may have had it on full zoom (Ican't imagine ever beingon full zoom indoors in a dark situation)

I really want a digital rebel or the like....but that is not a consideration as I am on a tight budget....so I think all of the benefits of the 7070 will make me quite happy as abes of maine now has it for $340(!)

Of course there is a lot ofjunky cameras at that price...so to get these features for the price is an amazing feat for olympus

thanks again

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Old Aug 29, 2005, 11:35 PM   #27
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gregg wrote:
Quote:
thanks Jim

I know about the 1.8 being the brightest at the time...but I guess I got lucky and may be spoiled by that lens...I bought it 3 1/2 years ago at comp usa as a demo sale...camera only $399.....but...I never imagined that nearly 4 years later that bright lenses would be an issue

I have shot in a very dark restaurant with internal flash...ISO 100, shutter preferred 1/125th, internal flash at 0...both tel and wide and gotten incredible results..I assume it defaulted the f stop to 1.8 or the higher f-stop when I zoomed
Shutter speed is not as critical using flash in darker conditions with most models. That's because the ambient light is usually not bright enough to expose your subject at lower ISO speeds indoors. So, since your subject is only illuminated during the flash burst (which is usually around 1/1000 second or faster, depending on your range), the flash itself has the impact of freezing the action.

If you're not going to be shooting without a flash, you'll be fine with most models indoors (provided you stay within the rated flash range).

In less than optimum lighting without a flash is where a model like your C-3040z excels compared to most (thanks to it's brighter lens).

Quote:
I was just concerned when a person in a forum on another site said he couldn't get it to lock on the focus with a 60 watt lamp...I suspect he had the iso to low or on auto and din't use an external flash...or may have had it on full zoom (Ican't imagine ever beingon full zoom indoors in a dark situation)
That's possible (too much zoom). A camera has to be able to "see" well enough to focus. With a model like the C-7070WZ, more than twice as much light reaches the sensor through the lens at it's wide angle position (which isonly half as bright as your C-3040z anyway at it's wide angle position).

The aperture doesn't change all at once from f/2.8 to f/4.8. It's gradual. The more zoom you use, the lower the light reaching the sensor with most models (including the C-7070WZ). Using more zoom also magnifies camera shake. This can make it harder for a camera to focus, too.

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Old Aug 29, 2005, 11:45 PM   #28
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I never knew thought about it but that meansthat a camera on a a tripod, would get an easier focus lock....but that certainly makes sense

interesting comment on the shutter spead indoors in a dark environment...

thanks again

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