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Old Aug 10, 2007, 7:09 AM   #11
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I disagree with the FZ20 was well known for its fringing, I have shot 40,000 photos with my FZ20 and only a few had any fringing at all and that always happened where the photo seems to start to lose focus and about 75 % of those with a teleconverter......I would look closely at the camera settings and see if something with the focus settings has changed....Focus area.....CAF... something along those lines.

One other thing I feel that has a bearing on the fringing is a high contrast area but due to conditions, the camera did not do a good job with the contrast...and something that can help is using a hood.

That is only my opinion and while it may be worth considering ,it is only my opinion
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Old Aug 10, 2007, 12:56 PM   #12
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CA, chromatic aberation, the purplish fringe, is fairly well controlled with the FZ20 but not the red/green fringing. You'll often see CA with branches or leaves against a bright overcast sky for example if your aperture is wide open but almost always the red/green fringing.

As I said before, the key is the aperture size in conjunction with the contrast. Wide open is the weak area when there is high contrast.

FZ20 fringing 171 posts

FZ20 chromatic 45 posts

Read through these and you'll be enlightened by experiences of many FZ20 owners.

My apologies to Steve for redirecting to another forum but it is the prime resource on this issue.

With the lens flares, as Genece said, use a hood, either the plastic one that came with the camera or go out and buy an extension tube adapter and mount a collapsable Hoya type hood. Then you can also use accessory filters such as a UV filter to protect the main lens from scratches.

Extensions... http://www.pemaraal.com/index.php?page=fz10ac

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Old Aug 10, 2007, 8:05 PM   #13
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Thanks for the advice and links, everyone.

Your pictures are not sharp. Soft focus will cause CA. Try spot mode focus it works better. Also you need to use the lens hood for all outdoor shots.

I switched the setting to spot metering. I was shooting in with Continuous Auto Focus turned on, which I usually don't do. And I had the colour saturation on high.

I'm taking the camera out tomorrow to do some more shooting, use a lens hood, and experiment more with aperture.
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Old Aug 10, 2007, 9:24 PM   #14
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I don't believe "spot metering" is what LoveLife suggested, B-H. Change the metering setting to spotwill hurt you more than help. Unless you understand how the camera meters light, your images will be either over or under exposed most of the time. I'd set the metering to Center-weight, which I find to be the most accurate most of the time. Now, as for the focus issue, you shouldset theAF mode tosingle pointfocus (which has nothing to do with spot metering), rather than multi-point, three pointor spot. Singlepoint is the third optiondown the AF mode list. Spot focus (the fourth option) is good if your subject if very small (i.e. a bird sitting on a branch surroundedby leaves - you want to make sure the bird is on focus not the branches or the leaves). I set image stabilizer to mode 2 for most shots but I find that mode 1 works best for macro andlong focal length shots. Picture adjustments set to standard except for saturation (low - gives you more detail) and noise (low - use software to remove noise).The lens hood helps eliminating glare (hot spots on the image) caused by sunlight reaching the lens from an angle. I don't believe it will help muchwith the focus problem. But, it's always a good idea to use it...it won't do you any harm. The best setting for me is P mode, center-weight with exposure set to -0.3 (or even -0.7 at times if you have very high contrast). Always use the lowest ISO possibleYou can always brighten things up in PS if the image is under exposed but if it's over exposed, you can't do much to recover what's not there to begin with. Also, always check the pictures after you take them to make sure the exposure is good. Due to the small size of the LCD, I find it very hard to check the focus for accuracy.
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