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Old Jun 17, 2010, 1:59 PM   #21
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Here is the simple tutorial in question:

The easiest way to get started is to first read completely through the Owner’s Manual and charge the battery. When you are ready to take your first photos, do this:

(1) Set “P” on the Mode Selector. “P” stands for Programmed Auto Mode. It is an Automatic Mode that allows the user to make adjustments to the ISO, to the Exposure Compensation, the Flash Compensation, the WB or White Balance, the Burst Mode, the Scene Modes, and the Focusing Options.
(2) Set to ISO to “Auto ISO. You probably want to consider limiting how far the camera can increase the ISO setting by itself. I would recommend that for outdoor photos that you limit the ISO increase to ISO 400. For indoor use limit the ISO increase to ISO 800.
(3) Set the WB to White Balance to “Auto WB” when shooting out doors. If you are shooting with flash indoors you can keep the Auto WB in place. If you are shooting indoors without flash, use tungsten or incandescent WB, it is indicated by the small logo symbol of a light bulb. Set the Flash mode selector to the Auto Flash position. This is not a perfect mode and there are two instances where the camera can be confused on when to deploy the flash.
(4) Set the focus point initially to center point focus. This allows you to select
exactly where the camera will focus. Focus is attained by gently pressing the
shutter release to the half way point. When the camera locks focus, it will signal
that focus lock to you. Now, while holding the shutter release at the half way
point, re-frame your photo as necessary, using the EVF, or Electronic View
(5) When you at pleased with the photo framing, gently depress the shutter to its full length. The emphasis here is on the word gently. Some users refer to the action as squeezing the shutter slowly. The main thing you want to avoid is jabbing at the shutter, as this will cause sudden camera movement overpowering the IS or image stabilization system and blurring the photo.
(6) After the photo has been recorded, check how the exposure looks on the cameras LCD screen. If it is to light, it is over exposed. If it is too dark, it is under exposed. You are looking for the midway point where the properly exposed photo looks like are properly tuned TV set. A photo that is too light can be correct by using Minus Exposure Compensation. Make the initial Minus Exposure Compensation setting EV-0.7, take the photo, and check the result on the camera’s LCD screen. Then increase or decrease the Exposure Compensation to attain the proper LCD screen appearance. If the photo is too dark, you will have to apply Positive Exposure Compensation. Begin with a setting of EV+0.7, and then again adjust the Exposure compensation again, as required to attain the proper LCD screen appearance.
(7) After the photo is taken, you will notice that a flashing red light will blink on the camera. This is an indication that the camera is recording the image to the camera’s flash memory card.
(8) If you are indoors and desire to take a flash photo using the camera’s built-in flash unit (a) check that the Flash Selector is still selected to the Auto Flash mode. (b) recheck that the WB is still set to Auto ISO. (c) Keep the camera to subject distance at 11.5 feet or less to achieve the proper exposure. If you are photographing a group and you must increase the amount of light projected from the camera’s built-in flash unit so that the Flash Range can be increased from the normal maximum Flash Range of 11.5 feet, to a greater value. The adjustment on the Flash Compensation scale works in the same way as Exposure Compensation did. Positive Flash Compensation increases the flash output and the Flash Range. Negative Flash Compensation reduces the flash output and the Flash Range.
(9) If you want to take a close up photo, where the camera to subject distance is 30 inches or less, you will have to select the Macro or Close-up Mode whose symbol is a small Tulip logo. Again the same photo taking procedure will apply. Gently depress the shutter release to the half way point, the camera locks the focus and give you the focus locked signal. Re-frame your focus as necessary after allowing the camera to focus on the exact point desired. If the photo environment’s lighting is low, select the flash, WB , and Auto ISO, as previously described. The built-in flash unit will reduce the light output of the flash due to the reduced Flash Range between camera and subject in this Macro or Close-up mode. After taking your close-up photo check the camera’s LCD screen for proper exposure. If the exposure is too light or too dark you will use the Exposure Compensation procedures outlined above. If you are taking the Macro or Close-up photo while employing flash, once again check the LCD screen for proper exposure. If the result is too light or too dark, you will use the Flash Compensation feature as described previously.
(10)As lighting conditions change you will have to adjust your camera’s WB to get
the correct color in your photo. There are fixed WB settings for bright sunshine,
cloudy or foggy conditions, tungsten or incandescent lighting, and for fluorescent
lighting (several varieties).
(11)Keep in mind that there are indeed minimum focus distances for each lens
position. In the Macro or Close up mode, the minimum focus distance is 2.5
inches. In the normal focus mode, without any zooming, the minimum focus
distance is 36 inches, or 3 feet. As the camera zooms out further, expect the
minimum focus to also increase. So, if the camera will not lock focus, the
problem is most probably that you are at less than the minimum focus distance
for that lens setting.
(12) The better the light, the better your photos will be. As the light level decreases
measurably you will find the photo quality will fall and the camera will have a
harder time recording your photo. So good light is essential to good photos.
(13) Photographers are like concert pianists: the more you practice and learn the
better your photo will be.
(14) Take your time and learn how the changes that you make to your camera,
directly affects how your camera records your photo.

I hope this will prove to be useful for you and that it might help in identifying any procedural problems.

Sarah Joyce

Last edited by mtclimber; Jun 18, 2010 at 9:53 AM.
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 3:39 PM   #22
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^^^Sarah that is awesome thanks for your invaluable input...it should be a stickie for all of us newbies...

Desolate One...Sarah just gave you a free lesson as she teaches photography...take it and copy it to a word document like I did and reference back when needed....

Thanks again Sarah for your kindness and willingness to help others!
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 12:44 PM   #23
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I ordered my ZS7 the other day (from Amazon...$242!) and am waiting for it to get here. I came across this thread and found lots of great information. I'm excited to get my camera and get started with it. LTZ470, I took the suggestion you gave to Desolate One and copied Sarah's tutorial. I plan to print it out and keep it with my manual. This forum is full of great advice! So glad I found it!
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Old Mar 20, 2011, 11:26 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by LTZ470 View Post
The Moon is a very trying subject dependant upon the brightness of it and of course the haze or cloudiness between you and it's surface...

Start with Aperture Priority...set to Spot Focus...set to Spot Metering...with Aperture Priority try the lowest setting 3.3 then try 5.0 then try 8.0 and if the Moon is too bright try to adjust the exposure down 1/3 at a time taking a picture each step and evaluating each photo for the best details...this will take a little time but I have spent several nights shooting the moon and evaluating the photos...
Thank you LTZ470, using his advice I took a nice shot of the supermoon last night with my brand new ZS7 at maximum zoom using a dollar store pocket tripod. While its not perfect, this is it with a crop and no post-processing. This is the first time I've tried to take a moon shot, figuring it was a once in 2 decades thing I'm really happy for the result, thanks a lot again LTZ470
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Old May 19, 2011, 2:35 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by chillgreg View Post

The link is dead. Does anyone have the actual link or cached page?
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Old May 31, 2011, 9:11 AM   #26
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or just http://fabritips.wordpress.com/ if you are Italian :-)

Thera are tons of good advice for TZ7 and TZ10. I cant decide between those two models myself (but now it seems more to TZ10)
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Old Jun 13, 2011, 1:05 AM   #27
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Oooh its back I really should print that page out, he has some great tips. Gonna try some like bursting with teliphoto and using natural color to get less graininess. Graininess in low ISO is the thing that is driving me nuts as I'm learning the camera.
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