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Old Nov 14, 2008, 11:59 AM   #1
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I am typically taking pictures of family...mostly indoors.I find the iA mode produces fuzzy images so I am trying to perfect a Custom program to sharpen them up. It's a work-in-progress but so far I have improved notably with these settings:

Pic size 10M

Quality Full

iISO off

ISO sensitivity Auto

ISO limit 800

White Balance Auto (but set as needed)

Metering (.)

AF Mode 1 square (not High speed)


iExposure OFF

Color Effect (none)

Pict Adjust Sharpness +1 , Noise Reduction -2

Stabilizer MODE 2

Min Shutter 1/8

AF Lamp ON

Flash Synchro 1st

So please post what you are using for Custom, what you are typically shooting, and any suggestions/tips/findings. :-)


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Old Nov 14, 2008, 4:58 PM   #2
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Instead of listing everything, I just change the ones of mine that differ from the original post here.

If I shoot in JPEG mode, I keep the intelligent exposure option in the quick menu ON.

I often manually set my white balance.

My main metering mode is center weighted.

I limit the Auto ISO to 400.

Minimum shutter speed is 1/4.
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 1:24 AM   #3
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When I had my FZ18, it settings were:

Contrast = +1
Saturation = -1
Sharpness = +1
NR = +1
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Old Nov 18, 2008, 11:24 AM   #4
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After years with my FZ20 I ve ended up with a dSLR (Eos 40D) and FZ28.

I love the new lumix and choose it over the FZ50 (explained why elsewhere).

I prefer to limit RAW images to when really needed (and I think compact cams RAWs are more limited than dSLRs' in exposure/details-Recovering possibilities. BTW Silkypix seems really a nice prog.) so I use JPG 96% of the times.

In Cam settings:
SATURATION: 0 - for some landscapes
-1 for more natural look
-2 for some portraits where skin is still too warm at 0/-1
CONTRAST: -2 or 0
at -2 you really have something like a RAW. Maybe less punchy looking, but with more DR. Use 0 for normal compact-cam-like look.

SHARPNESS: -2 to decrease artifacts, 0 for normal (compact cam -like) look

NOISE REDUCTION: -2 permanently.
And glad there was a -2 (it' d be better also with a -3 and eventually a nearly NO NR OPTION). Anyway , despite the constant criticism, years ago, that FZ10-20 had too much noise, I used -1 (lowest possible) NR setting there: some more noise (which can be totally overcome) but great detail. FZ50 too high NR (more or less like FZ28) was the factor which mad me keep from buying that one.

WB- In the very few times I ve tried AUTO WB it really seemed someway off as it has been judged here and elsewhere.
Good to have 2 settings for MANUAL WB (on the FZ20 there was only 1 and I always used that, the same manual WB obtained zooming on clouds and including a bit of cyan sky to overcome the blue cast)...
but Manual WB is USELESS with the even better option of KELVIN temper WB.
If you are in a shady area, you can directly evaluate the effect of "cooling" or "warming" the temperature (this can be done with the LIVE VIEW in the Eos 50D dSLR but not on the 40D, where changing temperature moves out of the LCD live view mode).

In the next days/week I ll write a review and compare the FZ28 with a dSLR and kit lens. I can already anticipate that FZ28 has some satisfying points, even if it only costs 285 Euro vs the 1400 of 40D+17-85 IS (though I only payed 660E for them.. maybe 510 if Cashback arrives, but that's quite another story !).


in most of the cases, I find that -0,3 EV has is a better exposure option (more than it was on FZ20): not only it better controls Highlights clippings, but the general exp is finer imo, espec in too bright or too dark situations (in the latter ones it might be useful to UE up to -1 EV , as it is also with some dSLR's meters)

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Old Nov 18, 2008, 12:13 PM   #5
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I've always read that high contrast settings reduce DR. I have an Olympus E520 and if you shoot RAW, Olympus Master allows you to change those settings (as if you were changing them in the camera) so you can see the difference in IQ that results from the different values. By doing that, I noticed that reducing saturation had a lot more (NEGATIVE) impact in DR than reducing contrast. Reducing the saturation value turns light colors (primarily light blue and light pink/red) into whitish blue/pink/red, which in turn increases highlight clipping (thus reducing DR). Now, too much contrast can be negative at times but, at least the way the E520 processes the JPEG file (I don't know about other camera brands/models), high contrast actually cuts down light (accentuates the shadows and dark areas) as opposed to increase light to create more contrast. As a result, high contrast does not impact DR as much (at least I haven't noticed much increase in highlight clipping). I haven't received my FZ28 yet but this will certainly be an area I'll test as soon as I have the new toy.
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