SoCal Moon - FZ5 w/TCON-17

[Telecorder]

As a newbie, I thought that I'd share a sepia photo of the Moon over the SoCal Mojave Desert I just processed with Neat Image (Demo Version). I've had the FZ5 one week todayand just received the TCON-17 yesterday so this is a new adventure.

I had sanded down the standard adapter but was leery of the 1/2-3/4 of turn when attaching the TCON-17 directly. Receiving the Hoya HMC Super UV(O) today, its a much improved fit with the UV filter threaded into the adapter and the TCON-17 threaded 1-1/2 turns into the filter's threads.The corresponding EXIF info for the original jpg version of the TIFF photo is as follows:

Field Name: Field Value
Maker: Panasonic
Model: DMC-FZ5
Exif Version: 0220
Shot Time: 2005:12:09 10:24:32
Digitize Time: 2005:12:09 10:24:32
Compress Rate:2.0 bits/pixel
Exposure Time:1/200 Second
F Number: 5.6
Minimum F Number:
Focal Length: 72.00 mm (w/TCON-17 = 122.4mm or ~734mm 35mm eq.)
X Resolution:
Y Resolution:
ISO Speed Rate:ISO80
Flash: No Flash
Light Source: Auto
Exposure Program:Manual
Subject Area:
Custom Rendered:Custom
Exposure Mode:Manual Exposure
White Balance:Auto
Digital Zoom Ratio:
Scene Capture Type:Standard
Gain Control: None
Contrast: Normal
Saturation: Normal
Sharpness: Normal
Device Setting Description:Taken in TIFF mode; Neat Image processed; Cropped to current size
Subject Distance Range: Far, Far Away

Photo taken with IS off, spotmetering mode, AF Mode on spot H, 10-second timer w/mounting on tripod.



Any comments, critques or suggestions greatly appreciated!

[genece]

That is very nice ...but I can not help but wonder if it may have been better without NI.

[fmoore]

This is a good time to be taking shots of the moon. The craters stand out better than at full when it's just too bright. The neat image noise reduction here is a little intrusive. You should be able to do this handheld at 1/200s. Try opening the aperture to f4-4.5 and set the ev to -2/3 or-1 (0 here?). That should get you close to 1/300s. Try AF to spot (not H).

[Telecorder]

genece wrote:

That is very nice ...but I can not help but wonder if it may have been better without NI.

Genece-

Thanks for the comment. The cropped TIFF original (saved as a jpg), untouched and no NI processing, is below for comparison.

Years ago (~1990), I was involved with an organization called HiDAS at the Lewis Center here in Apple Valley (Lewis Center for Educational Research) wherethey have a 14" Celestron Schmidt Cassegrain telescope (I had an 8" Celestron; Now, the center has operational control of a 34-meter radio telescope - see photo below - that, until recently, was part of NASA's Deep Space Network and is now part of their K-12 school program).

The center was donated a 2/3" CCD camera that was set at prime focus of the 14" scope and had a cooling ring to reduce the noise. That was my first experience with taking blanks and using them to subtract noise. This was my first attempt at using the current generation of Noise software and felt that it was a bit overdone. Thus, my posting and requesting comments.

Would you say that, in general,applying the default settings for reduction is adequate?

[Telecorder]

A photo of the Goldstone 34-meter Radio Telescope w/operational control by the K-12 students...

[Telecorder]

FYI, A photo of M34 taken by Dave Meyer in 2003 through the 14" Celestron Telescope w/ aCanon D60 at Prime Focus-- 3 Min exposure http://www.hidasonline.com/gallery.htm

Would this be considered a 'low light' situation?:?

[Telecorder]

fmoore wrote:

This is a good time to be taking shots of the moon. The craters stand out better than at full when it's just too bright. The neat image noise reduction here is a little intrusive. You should be able to do this handheld at 1/200s. Try opening the aperture to f4-4.5 and set the ev to -2/3 or-1 (0 here? ). That should get you close to 1/300s. Try AF to spot (not H).

fmoore-

Good time also means that its high in the sky just after sunset, not too late in the evening and not as cold... Thanks for the comments/suggestions. I was amazed at how the sepia photo brought out the long shadows behind the ridges; especially in the upper rightareas of the photo past the terminator.

I've written down the suggested settings and will try them this evening. As to changing the AF to spot (not H), what effect on the AF would it have compared to AF 2 on spot-H?

Learning how the variables of the different camera settings change the photo is an ongoing process but its nice to have a camera that gives one the options... I guess now that I have a 2-GB card, I'll have to show myself to truely learn the differences!

[fmoore]

Telecorder wrote:

As to changing the AF to spot (not H), what effect on the AF would it have compared to AF 2 on spot-H?

I've had a little more luck with that. Nothing critical. Just something else to try. Since you're interested in monotone, check out thefree photshop plugin Virtual Photographer at http://www.optikvervelabs.com/

[Telecorder]

fmoore wrote:

Since you're interested in monotone, check out thefree photshop plugin Virtual Photographer at http://www.optikvervelabs.com/

Thanks! I liked the options but, unfortunately, my MicroGrapfx program is out of production and, while I was able to add the optikvervelabs add-ins, it causes the program to bomb. I guess I'll have to spend some more money and get an update imaging program...