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Old Jul 26, 2003, 7:22 AM   #11
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Here's the OIS thread :

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...essage=5066952
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Old Jul 26, 2003, 10:26 AM   #12
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I share your trepidation about attaching the weighty B300 to a plastic adapter.. The first time I used it I screwed it into a UV filter and kept hold of it all the time as the UV itself wasn't as secure as I would like it to be.. That is what made me decide to take off some of the plastic on the end of the adapter to make it possible to screw the B300 directly into it, now it fits much more securely but I still keep hold of it constantly..
There is also the worry of screwing metal into plastic and stripping the threads, the answer would be to find a metal adapter that fits the FZ1, I wonder if anyone has had a chance to try this yet ??

Another thing I noticed was that before I took the plastic off the adapter I got slight vignetting at full wide angle with filters attached especially with a B&W polarizer, this seems to have cleared up now with the UV on but as of yet I havn't taken any more shots with the polarizer on..
Tazman, I always have a UV filter on the camera to protect the lens, the sunny day shots on the slideshow were taken on standard setting with the UV filter on as were the indoor shots, the windfarm and horse shots were standard with a polarizer filter..
The stormy day pics were taken on the natural setting with the UV attached....
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Old Jul 26, 2003, 4:36 PM   #13
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This maybe a llittle off topic but one my post on pbase is a group of flowers. I put it there as it is typical of some situtations in framing with a telephoto lens. It has bright whites and color with lots of contrast. My question is what would be the best way, or ways, to approach this type of photograph. If you were to take this photp with the FZ1 what settings would be good?
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Old Jul 26, 2003, 5:10 PM   #14
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Hi Norman. I'd say your flower picture would have been better shot on Natural setting to tone down the colours a bit. Here is thread I contributed to on the issue of Natural/Standard/Vivid at dpreview :
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...essage=5603137

Also some of the whites are burnt out. Here's another thread on the issue of burnt out highlights :
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...essage=5613870

I highly recommend checking out the link in the second I give on Photoshop tips. This advises on how to make some corrections for chromatic aberration, which also seems to be a problem in your picture (those blue fringes around the white flowers).
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Old Jul 26, 2003, 7:49 PM   #15
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I will give it a try on the next time around.....many thanks
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Old Jul 27, 2003, 4:50 AM   #16
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Just posted on dpreview picture with DMC-FZ1 + TCON-17 :

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...essage=5692163

Go to web site to see what I am assuming is the full size, unprocessed picture taken at standard rather than fine compression (hence only 171k)?
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Old Jul 28, 2003, 8:08 PM   #17
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I have added photos to: www.pbase.com/normc using just the Sony 1.4 lens and have also added a fzflash gallery. All were done with just the 1.4 and in portrait mode as an experiements. Included are two photos of the camera. The flower pictures were predawn with only enough light tor focusing and the flower pot was about 70 feet away.
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Old Jul 30, 2003, 3:45 AM   #18
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Thanks for the pm Norman (normc).

The link I gave in the post above doesn't always give the picture on the dpreview page. However, the link the poster has given above it seems to work OK for me. The photo is of a heron :
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...83000080YkdOVJ
I'm not convinced the big photo is straight out of the camera since it reports an odd size in ACDSee; I think pictures that have been through Easy Thumbnails give this result. The photo reminded me of the sequence William Optics use to advertise one of their eyepieces (and I guess the idea of digiscoping in general) :
http://www.william-optics.com/telesc...grez-test1.htm

You're quite critical of the results with the convertor in your post, Norman. I thought it might be worth mentioning that in case others might be reluctant to offer comment or criticism for fear of giving offence I'm sure it can work like that. Time now to grab a coffee and take a look meself...
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Old Jul 30, 2003, 5:21 AM   #19
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Norman, you said in your PM that you felt you lost sharpness towards the edge of the pictures when using the teleconvertor. If you can photograph something with a large flat area like a brick wall, the results might tell you whether the amount is acceptable to you.
Presumably you really only want the convertor on for those pictures where you need the extra magnification. It would be a pity if concerns about the mounting on the camera meant you left it on all the time and this compromised quality for other pictures.
(I guess the boathouse.jpg picture is meant to illustrate that you lose some of the the wide angle end of the zoom to vignetting? The boat.jpg and beach.jpg would suggest you can get pretty good results at mid-zoom; but presumably no better than you would have achieved at higher zoom on the lens without the convertor. The maximum zoom end result on the swimmers.jpg does suggest some loss of resolution out from centre; despite the fact that the f6.5 aperture would have helped to reduce the effect, I imagine.)
It looks as though if you want the extra magnification with pretty good edge to edge sharpness, and no cropping, currently you'd need to find a way around attaching your bigger, heavier, and more expensive B300 to your Panasonic. Given your particular requirements, the risks this entails and the other camera(s) available to you, I could well understand if you decided this is not worth the trouble to you.
You may have seen that member orcarexx at dpreview was looking at the possibility of using an even bigger and more expensive Sony convertor which apparently gives better results than the TCON-17 (on an Olympus C2100 anyway) :
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...essage=5700225
Ultimately, I think worries about the plastic attachment killed the idea.
A physically very big convertor may not be necessary to avoid vignetting. Check the link below and click on the final "image" link near the bottom to see how a small scope eyepiece lens can match a big 35mm SLR lens :
http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope...ignetting.html
However, among those looked at so far, there does unfortnately seem to be a correlation between size (and cost) of convertor and quality achievable. Sigh.
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Old Jul 31, 2003, 4:15 PM   #20
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Anyone know anything about ultra fast shutter speeds and IS? 125 is what I read on amother post for the best speed at the low end, but a good question is if you are adding a telephoto lens and zooming all the way out and the shutter speed is maybe above 500 should you turn off the IS? You really should not need it at a fast speed anyway.
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