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Old Sep 27, 2003, 8:40 AM   #11
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>Our system operates at maximum efficiency when the shutter speed is 1/125th or shorter

well, ive maid some comparisons indoors, 1/15 s., poor light. shot a few shots with image stabilisation on and off.
well, the difference is HUGE. the best shot without IS is MUCH worse than the worst shot with IS. furthermore, looking for the object without IS on max zoom is extremely frustrating, as everything jitters almost constantly. with IS on everything is smooth as if with no zoom at all.
if Oly 740UZ behaves in the same manner as FZ1 with IS off, then I wouldn't recommend it for long zoom shooting.

>Now at ISO 200 I'm having much less noise than before, with a much brighter EVF and more accurate auto focusing.

yes, that may be a problem. but it is more so without flash. eitherway Neat Image takes care of this exceptionally well. of course, this takes a lot of time and aditional effort..
regarding brighter EVF - you can brighten it on FZ1 (or darken if you like). much bigger problem is the lack of polarising filter - you can't wath it in bright sunlight or at an angle. I personaly am ok with this as long as I do not have to show just taken pictures to others.

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Old Sep 27, 2003, 8:47 AM   #12
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speaking of polarising filter I meant of course the LCD. however, speaking about the possibility of brightening the picture I meant both LCD and EVF. just checked
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Old Sep 27, 2003, 9:33 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestas
well, ive maid some comparisons indoors, 1/15 s., poor light. shot a few shots with image stabilisation on and off. well, the difference is HUGE. the best shot without IS is MUCH worse than the worst shot with IS. furthermore, looking for the object without IS on max zoom is extremely frustrating, as everything jitters almost constantly. with IS on everything is smooth as if with no zoom at all.
Mmm... that's strange. Before I was just curious to find out how effective actually the IS (C2100UZ) and OIS (FZ1) was. I tried shooting at full zoom both indoor and out then compare those stabilized and not. On some cases I'd psychologically feel that those with IS was very slightly better when viewed at 100% on screen. But when viewed fitting to screen, there's really not much difference. That made me thinking I can do with one without IS. Maybe my hands are more steady (when I'm not starving ) caused I'm in a technical line (laboratory).

On C2100UZ, the image did jitter at long range full zoom. But when the shutter was half pressed, the IS functioned and the image suddenly calmed down. But on FZ1, I couldn't feel the OIS' working. I ever posted my doubt on this in the forum, but with no reply. And sometimes FZ1's OIS couldn't seem to make up for the focusing problem. Pictures came out blur when I thought they shouldn't.
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Old Sep 27, 2003, 9:39 AM   #14
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I did try brighten up the EVF (not the LCD, using the LCD to take pictures is not a proper way, unless for those digicams with only optical viewfinder, no choice to avoid parallex error), but didn't help the focus.
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Old Sep 27, 2003, 3:08 PM   #15
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>Mmm... that's strange. Before I was just curious to find out how

you've tried both? I've never had 2100UZ in my hands so I don't know, how it works.
on the other hand, the faster the shutter, the less need there is for IS. my experiment was at 1/15 of a second. have you tried to shoot in such conditions? IS pictures were almost the same as one made up close (of the same object), while non IS were horrible. that's just my experience.

>On C2100UZ, the image did jitter at long range full zoom. But when the shutter was half pressed, the IS functioned and the image suddenly calmed down. But on FZ1, I couldn't feel the OIS' working.

maybe your camera was deffected :/ with IS turned on FZ1 does not produce any visible jitters while looking for an object. maybe Olympus stabilisation would start working only with a shutter half pressed? I don't know :/
In FZ1 if IS is on, it is always on, if off - always off. no matter what you press )

>problem. Pictures came out blur when I thought they shouldn't.

imho this has little to do with stabilisation. As far as I've noticed long zoom pictures in good conditions can be out of focuss but not more often than non zoom ones (I haven't used very long zoom in bad light or at night).

btw, as far as I understand IS system in bot Olympus and Panasonic is very simmilar technically.

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Old Sep 27, 2003, 3:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KW2003
I did try brighten up the EVF (not the LCD, using the LCD to take pictures is not a proper way, unless for those digicams with only optical viewfinder, no choice to avoid parallex error), but didn't help the focus.
what focusing has to do with an EVF brightness level?
However, you complaints about bad focussing are interesting. I've read simmilar ones in dpreview forums. The impression I get is that some of FZ1s had some sort of deffect or something. I've never experienced problems because of bad focusing. Sure, I had bad photos, but not enough to consider that as a serious problem (3000= pictures made). maybe I'm still to face that problem, I don't know..
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Old Sep 28, 2003, 3:56 AM   #17
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May I know the distance of the object you shot when you mentioned indoor, poor lighting and 1/15s? I'd like to try also.

I personally think that for certain people, IS helps in some marginal cases - where the conditions are slightly bad. Under worse conditions, IS is useless; under good conditions, IS is needless.

Yes, I owned C2100UZ before FZ1, but now S5000.

Of course focusing has nothing to do with an EVF brightness level. I meant I always try to reduce that excessive noise on the FZ1. So I always use ISO 100 or below. Thus the EVF would become very dim and fucusing also having peoplem.

Even worse, there's one time at daytime absolutely good lighting, I just couldn't focus on the sign board no matter how many time I tried. Below is a crop out at 100% size. Maybe my FZ1 was really having problem.

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Old Sep 28, 2003, 5:38 AM   #18
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>May I know the distance of the object you shot when you mentioned indoor, poor lighting and 1/15s? I'd like to try also.

about 2-3 metres

>I personally think that for certain people, IS helps in some marginal cases - where the conditions are slightly bad. Under worse conditions, IS is useless; under good conditions, IS is needless.

I've just tried to shoot something on max zoom. its daylight, a bit cloudy, not a pure sunlight. shutter speed 1/650 s. made 2 few with IS, and 3 without. both with IS are the same. without IS are like that: one is like with IS, one is very slightly worse and one is visibly worse (but much better overall than the ones I mentioned before, of course). and the jitters while looking for an object were still present without IS - this would be a real problem for me. My hands really are not the stediest in the world. So I guess, that for me IS does its job, it allows to take much quicker shots on full zoom without much worrying.

>Even worse, there's one time at daytime absolutely good lighting, I just couldn't focus on the sign board no matter how many time I tried. Below is a crop out at 100% size. Maybe my FZ1 was really having problem.

yes, thats a bad pic. sadly I couldn't see the exif info. I wonder if iso100 (or higher) was fixed - couse at these conditions camera would probably chose iso 50 (or 75 at most). However, I've no idea if it would help
on the other hand the object is pretty small - maybe spot metering would help? anyways, it should have focussed automatically. well, bad luck I guess
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Old Sep 28, 2003, 7:13 AM   #19
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I have both the Panasonic FZ2 and Olympus C-750, personally I think the Olympus gives clearer images but that may be down to not yet having got to grasp with the FZ2. ie using spot focus and what picture effect to select.

I agree that the menus of the Panasonic are very easy to use and the camera is a joy to use, I originally purchased an FZ1 then found that the FZ2 was out and swapped it.

Other plus points of the Panasonic are good battery life I took 200 photos yesterday and the battery is still okay and lovely silent operation you cannot here the zoom.

Kevin
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Old Sep 28, 2003, 9:32 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestas
I've just tried to shoot something on max zoom. its daylight, a bit cloudy, not a pure sunlight. shutter speed 1/650 s. made 2 few with IS, and 3 without. both with IS are the same. without IS are like that: one is like with IS, one is very slightly worse and one is visibly worse (but much better overall than the ones I mentioned before, of course). and the jitters while looking for an object were still present without IS - this would be a real problem for me. My hands really are not the stediest in the world. So I guess, that for me IS does its job, it allows to take much quicker shots on full zoom without much worrying.
At 1/650, I'm quite confident to take a good one at max zoom without IS. Also I have a way to increase the chance of good shots at slower shutter speed. That's to use burst mode. Sometimes, the first shot will tend to blur due to shutter press but the subsequent ones will difinitely have a good one. That's the convenience of digital right?

S5000 has a burst mode of 5fps, first or final 5. FZ1 is also capable of doing 4fps. Couple with the OIS, you have a very great chance for a good shot. But of course you can't use flash.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestas
yes, thats a bad pic. sadly I couldn't see the exif info. I wonder if iso100 (or higher) was fixed - couse at these conditions camera would probably chose iso 50 (or 75 at most). However, I've no idea if it would help
on the other hand the object is pretty small - maybe spot metering would help? anyways, it should have focussed automatically. well, bad luck I guess
It was fixed at ISO100.
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