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Old Oct 26, 2008, 1:49 PM   #21
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Scrench wrote:
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Hi Greg,

Also, one other thing, I have yet to see anyone post a video with the supposed horrible audio, so I've never heard the camera. Think you could oblige?


Scrench



Here's a post over at DPReview where I provided a link to some movies I shot with the FZ28 last night at a National Hockey League game here in Dallas..

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=29812167

As I noted in that post....I'm no movie expert. Someone used to using these type cameras no doubt could get a steadier hand than I used in shooting these, but it should give you an idea about the video and audio quality.

I was very please with the still images I was able to get.
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 8:55 PM   #22
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Greg,

I looked at your movies and immediately compared them to some stuff I shot today with my Canon S3 IS, and there is literally no comparison. The higher resolution got rid of all the annoying noise artifacts, causing the video to be much smoother. And that was at night in an artificially lit auditorium. My video was in broad daylight. I did notice the audio was a little crisper from the Canon, but I think that is probably because Canon uses a 44.1 bit sampling rate and Panasonic uses something less, say around 20 bit. Or it could be a different eq curve, I don't know. But it didn't bother me at all, very livable. The only real difference is that the Canon is in stereo, but for the added video quality, who cares.

I also noticed something else. It looks like you've come up with a different way to manipulate Silkypik, because your RAW shots are starting to look much better than earlier ones you've posted and on your Smugmug site. In all honesty, until now, I always thought your jpeg shots looked better than the RAW's. What are you doing differently? And did you see the night shots of Berlin that some guy shot with the FZ28 on dpreview? Those are some of the best shots I've seen from any camera period. How did he do that and how can we do it taking everyday shots?

Once again, many thanks for all the time and effort you are putting into showing the rest of us what the FZ28 is capable of.
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 11:23 PM   #23
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Scrench wrote:
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Greg,


I also noticed something else. It looks like you've come up with a different way to manipulate Silkypik, because your RAW shots are starting to look much better than earlier ones you've posted and on your Smugmug site. In all honesty, until now, I always thought your jpeg shots looked better than the RAW's. What are you doing differently? And did you see the night shots of Berlin that some guy shot with the FZ28 on dpreview? Those are some of the best shots I've seen from any camera period. How did he do that and how can we do it taking everyday shots?

Once again, many thanks for all the time and effort you are putting into showing the rest of us what the FZ28 is capable of.
Thank you for your comments.

Yes, you would be correct.I have changed the way Iam processing the RAW files, especially the ones above the base ISO 100. I've found a combination that works really well that combines lowering the contrast one notch in the converter, and while I used the same sharpening point, I did tweek the outline sharpness slider. There are a total of three sliders in the sharpening filter and I raised the outline sharpness slider (the top slider bar)by 50% over the previous amount I was using, use the tone curve adjustment more to raise or lower values vs. the exposure compensation and modified the settings in the noise reduction filter. If you do happen to go for one, let me know and I'll give you what I'm now using, at leastas a starting point until you get into your own process.

Silkypix has a dizzying array of tweeks you can make....probably as many as Adobe Camera RAW, some of whichare buried in menus you have to find, but I'm really starting to like it a lot. I may be using the FZ28 in RAW capture more and more. I think the results are worth the effort.

I have not seen the nightimages. I'll have to go back and look. Thanks for the heads' up. (Edit) I just looked. Quite awesome work he did with those.
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Old Oct 27, 2008, 2:06 PM   #24
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Scrench wrote:
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And did you see the night shots of Berlin that some guy shot with the FZ28 on dpreview? Those are some of the best shots I've seen from any camera period. How did he do that and how can we do it taking everyday shots?
It sounds like he took several images of the same subject, using a tripod to keep all the copies exact, making varying exposures either side of what you'd term a "correct" exposure, then combined them using a high dynamic range program.

For night shots, where you might need 6-8 exposure adjustments to fully bring out all the light levels, I can absolutely see the need to do this, and for some daylight shots, especially sunrise and sunsets, there can be a need to use this process to fully maximize the dynamic range, but for most daylight shooting, I've often been able to do fine shooting oneRAW file that's been carefully exposedand processing it two or three times, once to maximize the shadows, once to maximize the mid-tones and once for the highlights, the combine them using Layers and Layer masks in Photoshop CS2, but it needs to be a really good image for me to go to that trouble!

I've not used too many HDR programs. Photoshop CS2 has one. Once I tried shooting a RAW file, processing it 3-4 different ways and submittedtheconverted JPEG'sto the HDR program and it did not accept the files due to the fact they all came from the same RAW file. You have to shoot individual JPEG's for the HDR program in CS2 to correctly process then into one HDR file.
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 3:24 PM   #25
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Hi Steve

I've really enjoyed your photos. I have the FZ28 and am having trouble getting the shallow depth of field that you have in so many of your photos. Any secrets? I'm a new photographer and have tried shooting aperture priority at 2.8, but I still have a long depth of field! :? Thanks for any input!

Lisa
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 3:38 PM   #26
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lschaaf wrote:
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Hi Steve

I've really enjoyed your photos. I have the FZ28 and am having trouble getting the shallow depth of field that you have in so many of your photos. Any secrets? I'm a new photographer and have tried shooting aperture priority at 2.8, but I still have a long depth of field! :? Thanks for any input!

Lisa
In order to get the shallow depth of field with this camera, you need to be shooting closeups near the telephoto end of the zoom range and near the closest focus distance. Once you get between the 11x-17x zoom range the closest focus distance is something like 3.28 feet. Even at that distance, it's hard to completely blur the background out. The ones like the few I've posted below where I was able to do it, I used the Raynox M150 closeup lens and I had to get pretty close to the subject. I highly recommend the Raynox M150 closeup lens for use with this camera..








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Old Nov 10, 2008, 7:55 PM   #27
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Thanks! I'll look for it!

Lisa
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