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Old Jan 5, 2010, 12:59 PM   #11
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The settings are to ensure you are getting an under exposed shot and then letting the flash do the work, they are not designed for indoor shots under normal lighting.

Without seeing the conditions it's hard to see exactly what to set. I would say that you could get away with 1/125, f5 and ISO 100 which will mean the flash is doing less. It comes with experience and practise, but these are good starting points. Also with the FZ38 when shooting in manual mode I would check if the flash works auto of you have to set power yourself. It is probably easier to use shutter priority as I know this will then default to auto flash.

Good flash photography is one area that needs work as you have more elements to bring together.

However when they do come together you can get lovely shots.

Here are more creative ways of using the flash, it can be done with a P&S if you are close enough to the subject but much easier with a larger external flash.

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Old Jan 5, 2010, 1:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrvoje xyz View Post
Hy , Its my first post here.
I own fz38 for a day ; and am also struggling to have nice photos indoors.I mean , they are ok , there are twice as good as photos taken from comapct camere I used to work before.

I tried to use these setting written above , but I get almost black screen ??
1/250 shutter speed , ISO 100 and f 7.1 Indoor , small lamp is turned on.

sure , when I use flash its ok.

those settings were to ensure a black frame without flash. so when the flash pops it stops action.

it's probably easier to just use mark's suggestion of shutter priority at low iso.
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Old Jan 5, 2010, 1:25 PM   #13
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Hrvoje-

Welcome to the Forum. We're glad you dropped by.

Let's see if we can really simplify taking indoor flash shots.

1. Use the P Mode on your Mode Selector, do not use IA

2. Set the Auto ISO to Auto ISO with an ISO 800 limit

3. Be sure to 1/2 press the shutter release and allow the FZ-35 to focus.

4. Stay within 8 to 10 feet measured from camera to subject.

5. Take your photo normally.

I believe that this will improve your flash photos indoors. Please let me know if this solves the problem.

Have a great day.

Sarah Joyce
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Old Jan 5, 2010, 1:35 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by mtclimber View Post
Hrvoje-

Welcome to the Forum. We're glad you dropped by.

Let's see if we can really simplify taking indoor flash shots.

1. Use the P Mode on your Mode Selector, do not use IA

2. Set the Auto ISO to Auto ISO with an ISO 800 limit

3. Be sure to 1/2 press the shutter release and allow the FZ-35 to focus.

4. Stay within 8 to 10 feet measured from camera to subject.

5. Take your photo normally.

I believe that this will improve your flash photos indoors. Please let me know if this solves the problem.

Have a great day.

Sarah Joyce
It depends if you are talking about a normal stationary shot of if we are trying to solve the problem with moving subjects. This isn't going to reduce the ambient light enough thus bringing in the power of the flash which is what is going to freeze the action.
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Old Jan 5, 2010, 2:26 PM   #15
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Mark-

Yes, the thought in my post was to create a very simple step by step process to get the OP started. The OP had made no mention of subject movement. Once we get the OP started, then we can add addition suggestions.

If you have a qualms about my posts, why not send me a PM. I am always open to positive suggestions.

Sarah Joyce
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Old Jan 5, 2010, 3:10 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by mtclimber View Post
Mark-

Yes, the thought in my post was to create a very simple step by step process to get the OP started. The OP had made no mention of subject movement. Once we get the OP started, then we can add addition suggestions.

If you have a qualms about my posts, why not send me a PM. I am always open to positive suggestions.

Sarah Joyce
Hi Sarah,

There was no point in PMing you as you had posted what I believe to be contrary to the correct advice based on the OP's situation. If I had PM'd you then the OP wouldn't get to see what I believe is correct. This is the advantage of an open forum that we get to share our ideas based on our skill and experience in similar conditions working with similar equipment. You had already covered in the very first post to the OP what you stated again, which is fine for getting an OK shot but doesn't address what Angela wants to do (sorry Angela for keep calling you the OP). Working in P or A modes will make the camera try to expose as close as possible with ambient light and then add some flash to bring up the last bit. This will not stop blur as shutter speeds are too slow and the flash used isn't enough. The only way to go about this is to get a little more advanced as I discussed and Dustin added to.

BTW if you were not happy you could have PM'd rather than posting in the forum and suggesting I PM
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Old Jan 7, 2010, 11:08 AM   #17
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Ive made some shots..I think they are Ok?

http://picasaweb.google.com/hrvoje.bmw/ZaNet#

just that red eye..there is no "red eye reduction" option on camera or what?
I mean , I edit it in ACDsee or picasa nad then its ok ,but its quite a hassle.

last two photos , first I uploaded original photo , then edited ..


and one more thing:this photo for example , was taken with low-budget compact
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Ljs4X91OmvM/Sc...0/SP_A0757.jpg
ofcourse , its daylight , but still ... God knows what can I make with Pany
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Old Jan 7, 2010, 12:01 PM   #18
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hrvoje-

Yes, the exposures posted on the picasaweb are quite correct. Please keep in mind that "red eye" seems to be more common in young children and pets. Concerning your last link, there the is exposure is about what I would expect from on camera flash from a budget camera.

The inherent fault with using on camera flash is that there are heavy distinct shadows and the lighting appears quite sharp and contrasty. This can be overcome by using bounce flash which provides much more pleasant appearing lighting. The attached photo was taken using bounce lighting.

Sarah Joyce
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Old Jan 7, 2010, 12:15 PM   #19
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hrvoje-
The attached photo was taken using bounce lighting.
Bounce flash or studio lighting? There are reflections for what look like two soft boxes or umbrellas.
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Old Jan 7, 2010, 1:23 PM   #20
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Mark-

You are correct. However, the intent was to demonstrate that bounced/diffused/ or even soft box lighting, is a good deal different and more effective that using the camera's built-in flash unit. Wouldn't you agree, you use a lot of bounced flash?

Have a great day.

Sarah Joyce

Last edited by mtclimber; Jan 7, 2010 at 1:26 PM.
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