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Old Jan 7, 2010, 2:00 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by mtclimber View Post
...inherent fault with using on camera flash is that there are heavy distinct shadows and the lighting appears quite sharp and contrasty.
Yes, I must agree.... in fact to the point that I really have avoided using the camera flash of the FZ38 as much as humanly possible. Luckily my particular interest is architectural and engineering structures .... sometime even small devices in macro mode, so have the ability to make use of longer exposures
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Old Jan 7, 2010, 2:02 PM   #22
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Ive made some shots..I think they are Ok?

http://picasaweb.google.com/hrvoje.bmw/ZaNet#

just that red eye..there is no "red eye reduction" option on camera or what?
I mean , I edit it in ACDsee or picasa nad then its ok ,but its quite a hassle.

last two photos , first I uploaded original photo , then edited ..


and one more thing:this photo for example , was taken with low-budget compact
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Ljs4X91OmvM/Sc...0/SP_A0757.jpg
ofcourse , its daylight , but still ... God knows what can I make with Pany
With my FZ35 I have yet to get red eye in any picture I have taken. For indoor shots I use flash with red eye reduction.
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Old Jan 7, 2010, 2:15 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by mtclimber View Post
Mark-

You are correct. However, the intent was to demonstrate that bounced/diffused/ or even soft box lighting, is a good deal different and more effective that using the camera's built-in flash unit. Wouldn't you agree, you use a lot of bounced flash?

Have a great day.

Sarah Joyce
I agree that bounced is better and sure I use it a lot, but when claiming a shot to be bounced flash it is probably better to show a shot that is bounced flash rather than 2 strobes with soft boxes or umbrellas.

Bounce flash won't give the same look as studio lights as here the is more shaping available as the environment is far more controlled. For anyone with the option for bounce flash work then I would certainly recommend it or for them to diffuse the on board flash a little. There are 3rd party diffusers that can help however flash power is reduced.
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Old Aug 7, 2010, 5:33 AM   #24
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Excellent tutorial...thanks Mark and Dustin...that'll help me to move to the next level also...you two make it seem easy, but it's not when you have little experience...

Thanks again!
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Old Aug 7, 2010, 7:36 AM   #25
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thanks a lot guys
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Old Aug 7, 2010, 6:35 PM   #26
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Ive made some shots..I think they are Ok?

http://picasaweb.google.com/hrvoje.bmw/ZaNet#
hrvoje xyz,

Nice looking shots! Can you tell me EXACTLY how you had your camera setup for these?

Thanks!

Frank
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Old Aug 8, 2010, 5:57 AM   #27
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Well to be honest- every photo has its own setup.Best advice I can give you - try try try , take various shots , different setups , youll learn whats good!
When I have enough time , I take photo of something I wanna remember in two parts:first I use Panasonics suggestion mode(portrait or landscape I use the most) and then I switch to M mode , histogram swiched ON and - experiment!


For starters , try using pre-defined Portrait and Landscape modes.
Indoor shots are a bit trickier , for that I mostly use Portrait-Normal rather then Soft skin , and since I am usually in smaller spaces like my flat , I learnt that decreasing flashes power (I decrease it in two steps) tendts to give good results.

Here is one shot from my last trip ,(Ive made round 1000 shots in 3 weeks )in lots of cases flash would burn her face ..
http://picasaweb.google.hr/hrvoje.bm...75535790394674

in outdoor with very little light , now thats a job to make decent photo
http://picasaweb.google.hr/hrvoje.bm...76767877187746

Last edited by hrvoje xyz; Aug 8, 2010 at 6:11 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2010, 10:17 PM   #28
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Well, since this thread was revived somewhat recently I'll post here instead of starting a new one...

I just bought an FZ35 and I'm a bit overwhelmed. My old camera is a Canon A80 so I'm at least somewhat familiar with manual/Tv/Av modes, although I just shot in P most of the time and lately I've mostly been using my wife's SD800. So, I bought the FZ35 to try something a bit different/more advanced and mostly thinking I'd use it for outdoor shots.

That being said, I'd like to use it indoors as well but so far I've been having trouble getting good results. Using P mode with default settings, flash auto, the pictures look kind of dark, even if I tweak the exposure up to +2. Also the camera seems to pick slow shutter speeds and high ISO (250-400).

So, what Mark said was a big help, I wasn't considering that the camera tries to use the least amount of flash. I knew the camera would adjust the output some but I was amazed to see on the first page that such a range of shutter speeds were possible to get roughly the same exposure (1/60, f4.5, ISO 800 vs 1/250, f7.1, ISO 80). Contrary to what hrvoje said, I think not enough flash is my problem and I like the results better if I bump up the flash output by 2/3 to 1 stop. Keep in mind I am taking pictures of my dogs and other random stuff but not people so that could be a big difference.

There are times when I don't mind playing around, but a lot of the time I'd like to just be able pick up the camera and take a picture without having to mess around - isn't that what "P" mode (or iA) is supposed to be for? It seems to me that for this purpose extra flash is less objectionable than high ISO/slow shutter, but I don't seem to be able to do that - if I set the flash to +2 things get really overexposed I guess I could try turning the exposure compensation down, but again it's starting to be a bit too much tweaking. I guess I can find settings I like and store them in 'cust' mode, but I still don't understand why 'P' doesn't "just work". Is there something I'm missing? Intelligent ISO, intelligent exposure, etc? Using a scene mode?
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Old Aug 27, 2010, 1:22 AM   #29
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Hm... well, I think the camera LCD is part of the issue - the shots don't look quite so dark on my computer (although I think some of them are still somewhat underexposed). I do still wonder why P picks high ISO/slow shutter, but I think I have 'C2' set up as a half-decent ISO 80, 1/125 shutter "indoor flash mode" that seems to be giving me more of what I'm looking for...
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Old Aug 27, 2010, 1:33 AM   #30
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Set your ISO to Max ISO400...the FZ35 will take excellent ISO400 shots all day long...and set to "A" then dial the aperture to 2.8 if possible for indoors...if you zoom any at all the Aperture number will increase and allow less light into the camera slowing the shutter speed even more and making it difficult to get a non-blurred shot (sharp shot)

Remember that stability of the camera is MOST important with the slower shutter speeds so stabilise at all cost by using a shooters breathing technique and insuring shutter is halfway down and in-focus then depress the shutter fully WITHOUT shaking the camera...it can't be emphasized enough...
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