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Old Feb 23, 2010, 11:01 PM   #21
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amateurman-

Your missing the point, The photo will take no longer for set-up or to take the photo, at all. Our effort is to get a smarter, more knowledgeable photographer. That is what we are doing in this folder. We hope that you will join us.

Sarah Joyce
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 8:25 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by amateurman View Post
what would be good is if the FZ38 could allow me to save custom settings of my own choice.
You can save up to 3 sets of custom settings for different shooting conditions with the FZ35 (I assume FZ38 is the same). I suspect other superzooms have a custom settings option as well.
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 8:56 AM   #23
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hi jazzer,

thank u for letting me know that useful info. FYI, I have started a clean topic, as i don't want to hijack paul's thread, lol.

You'll find it here: http://forums.steves-digicams.com/pa...-confused.html
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Old Mar 9, 2010, 8:48 PM   #24
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This is another attemp on moving targets, thank you for all the advice, hope this results proves better with the FZ35 force flash on and @1600.
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Old Mar 9, 2010, 10:17 PM   #25
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That worked out very well, Paul-

You could do one more thing. Have the boy in the photo stand on his "touch down" spot on the trampoline so you can pre-focus the shot by depressing the shutter release to the half way point. Hold the shutter at the halfway point and fully depress the shutter release when you take the photo.

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Old Mar 10, 2010, 10:31 AM   #26
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This is another attemp on moving targets, thank you for all the advice, hope this results proves better with the FZ35 force flash on and @1600.
Paul. I'm going to disagree with Sarah. I don't think this worked out well - the reason being HOW flash was used. The exif information has been stripped - so the only piece of data I have is you used ISO 1600 and flash.

The results have two issues: 1) overexposure and 2) motion blur.

The problem is a result of HOW you used flash. There are two methods to freeze motion - fast shutter speed OR flash combined with camera exposure well below ambient light levels.

I think you understand the whole fast shutter speed thing. So I won't go into that. These photos didn't have fast enough shutter speed to freeze motion.

Now - using flash to freeze motion. This is a little trickier. The way it works is - you set the camera's exposure to underexpose the shot by about 2 stops. In this case shutter speed doesn't matter. But you need to use a mode that allows you to control things. Manual exposure is perfect for this. Choose an ISO. Select an aperture value - say f5.6. Now if your camera wants to use a shutter speed of say 1/30, what you have to do is force the camera to use a shutter speed of say 1/125 instead. Now, normally 1/125 would show motion blur. BUT, because the shot is underexposed so much if you take the shot without flash everything will look pretty dark. When you force the flash to fire, the duration of the flash is only about 1/1000-1/2000 of a second. So even though the shutter is open for 1/125 there is only enough light to properly exposure your subject for 1/1000 - plenty to freeze motion. However, the closer the camera's exposure settings are to ambient the more likely you will see ghosting (it's what motion blur looks like with flash).

The reason your photos didn't turn out well is the camera's exposure was too high and thus the flash didn't freeze the motion. And because the camera's metering the whole scene you're getting too much flash output and thus getting flash burned subject.

Try the following:
set in manual exposure mode
Force the flash on.
Set ISO to 400
Set Aperture to f5.6
Set shutter speed to 1/60

See if you don't get a better shot.
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Old Mar 10, 2010, 12:32 PM   #27
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Thanx guys excellent advice JohnG will try it to improve my shots.Thanx Sarah & John.
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Old Apr 12, 2010, 6:00 PM   #28
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John g

THANK-YOU!

That is gold-dust!!!
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