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Old Apr 10, 2010, 1:33 PM   #11
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Clint... You're going to have some amount of optical degradation using a Teleconverter like that, and you're also gong to have degradation as ISO speeds get higher (from noise and/or noise reduction).

So, unless you can use a tripod at focal lengths that long and keep ISO speeds set to a reasonable level, you're not going to get perfectly sharp images (because your shutter speeds are too slow to prevent blur from camera shake using lower ISO speeds, and images are going to get softer from noise and/or noise reduction at higher ISO speeds), with the issue compounded because you'll get a bit of optical degradation from using a Teleconverter. Now, some of those are still better than I'd expect using focal lengths that long with type of camera using a TC.
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Old Apr 10, 2010, 1:39 PM   #12
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You've also got a depth of field issues involved zooming in that much with a smaller subject (how much of the subject is still in focus as you get further away from your focus point). That's why the parts of this image closer to the camera are sharper than the parts of it that are further away from the camera, even though this is probably about the best compromise between noise levels and shutter speed (this one was at ISO 400, f/4 and 1/250 second). So, focus point will be very critical, even if you can come up with a settings combination that gives you an acceptable amount of blur from camera shake versus softer images from noise and/or noise reduction at focal lengths that long with a smaller subject.

http://forums.steves-digicams.com/me...38-fuzzy3.html

If you lean at all after locking focus, you can expect changes in the point that's sharp with a subject that small and focal lengths that long. You'll need to be very careful of your focus point, locking focus with a half press of the shutter button, then smoothly squeezing the shutter button the rest of the way down, holding it until the camera finishes opening and closing the shutter before releasing it (to reduce camera vibration causing blur from camera shake using focal lengths that long if you can't use a tripod with a remote cable release of some type, as your shutter speeds are really a bit on the slow side trying to zoom in that much with a smaller subject, since camera shake is magnified as focal lengths get longer).
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Old Apr 10, 2010, 4:19 PM   #13
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Thanks, I'm going to try a bit more but I may have a bad lens. I noticed when I unpacked the box and took out the LT-55 box it looked crushed on the bottom and appeared to have gotten wet at some point. Inside the lens is packaged in a sort of card board cradle. That was undamaged and the lens appeared OK. I know tele's love light and need faster shutter speeds but for the extra cost it would appear this lens isn't delivering it's money's worth.
We shall see.................
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Old Apr 10, 2010, 4:48 PM   #14
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i'm new here so bear with me.
i'm thinking of getting the lt-55 lens for my fz28.
as i read my manual it say to make sure the camera
is set to "on" for the teleconvertion lens.
doesn't explain why, just says to see the operating instructions
that come with the lens.
does anyone know more about this?
could it cause the fuzziness?
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Old Apr 10, 2010, 5:10 PM   #15
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Hi Andy - I changed it to ON in the menu. If you don't it looks like you're looking out of a tunnel with a long way to get to the end.

I think I may be sending mine back if I can. I really don't want to carry around a tripod and I think it may be too much "technical" stuff for what I want to do. I get pretty good shots already with the EZ modes.
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Old Apr 11, 2010, 7:20 AM   #16
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I guess the rule of thumb is you want the reciprocal of the focal length for the shutter speed. 800 mm FL = 1/800 mm SS.

Now at 800mm with SS at 1/800, light becomes the limiting factor IMO and its hard to get good light with a point and shoot given the teleconvertor as takes away an f-stop or two. You need perfect conditions or something has to give with the ISO-f-Stop-SS Triangle.

Then on top of that we have C.A. involved and handshake or cheap tripod shake.

And also I realize the closer an object is, the better it focuses full zoom; so distance of the subject is a factor. Air is a medium that adds a degree imperfection and light deflection or absorption.

Its hard getting perfect without a $3000 DSLR set up. One of the pros taking pictures of that warbler in my other post took like 300-400 shots with his DSLR with 1000 mm lens at 15 ft even.

Just realize by the looks of those woodpecker photos (great find by the way) there seems to be objects around and in front of the bird that could have been interfering with the focus. All it takes is an inch or two and the narrow plane of focus shifts to some other object. What are the green blotches that appear in some of the pics? The tree trunk is in focus: was it at the same plane as the bird? Woodpeckers also move a lot and are hard to focus on.

So we have to keep trying, practicing, knowing limitations, and getting help from our mentors here.

Clint, what I am finding is that at full zoom there will always be a slight fuzziness in some part of the picture. I was dissapointed that with the monk parakeet I posted, the head was focused but his body wasn't. It appears the depth of field is very thin with a teleconvertor zoomed in.

I think these issues are to be expected as we are trying to get shots that people struggle with with a $3000-$4000 setup. Many professional photos posted don't mention this is the best photo out of 300 taken.

Last edited by Chris0383; Apr 11, 2010 at 7:42 AM.
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Old Apr 11, 2010, 7:37 AM   #17
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Chris, I'm coming to the same conclusion. The FZ35 is such a good camera "as is", I don't think I want the hassle of lugging around pods and trying to figure the right "triangle" factor. I think I am moving away from using the LT-55 and using the KISS method. Anyone interested in a LT-55 and adapter????
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Old Apr 11, 2010, 7:46 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andygimma View Post
as i read my manual it say to make sure the camera
is set to "on" for the teleconvertion lens.
What I understand with the FZ35 is that if you zoom in at a certain zoom factor, the tele-on goes on automatically. So it only needs to be set to on with the FZ35 if you are using the teleconvertor without zooming.
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Old Apr 11, 2010, 7:54 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint501 View Post
I think I am moving away from using the LT-55 and using the KISS method.
I'd go out and have some more experience with it. If lighting permits, use S-Priority and set the SS to 1/800 and Iso at 200, and adjust the aperture to get the proper light.

Use P-mode and use moderate zoom as the camera doesn't know you are using a teleconvertor to set an ideal SS.

The reason you don't see my early pictures with the TCONN-17 is that I deleted most all of them as it took a bit to get the lens working and the first photos came out fuzzy also.

Also give manual focusing a try.

These are just trouble shooting steps to assure you lens isn't faulty. You should be able to get some sharp images.

What mode are you using for optical stabilization ?
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Old Apr 11, 2010, 8:03 AM   #20
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When I set it to ON with the tele-convertor attached it automatically moves up to 18x.
I guess it works either way. Leaving it OFF gives a great barrel or tunnel shot. Maybe I could place a few fish at the end........
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