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Old Jul 23, 2010, 3:37 PM   #31
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Joho

Fantastic pictures, Are they really all taken with the FZ35/38?

The quality is fantastic. Everyone pushes you towards the DSLR ranges, but with quality pics like these and the camera coming in a convenient package at a great price. I am sorely tempted to get one. I was looking at the Pentax X-k, but these pics blow them out of the water when compared with most of the pics I have seen posted. Admittedly the also blow the other FZ35/38 pics out of the water as well.
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Old Jul 23, 2010, 4:04 PM   #32
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Joho

Fantastic pictures, Are they really all taken with the FZ35/38?
Hi,

these are not my pictures - but the pictures from edufloyd - but I agree - they are fantastic
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Some of my stuff on vimeo (all shot with an FZ-35):
The tree: www.vimeo.com/11345662
with LC55 macro lens: www.vimeo.com/13884313
Zeeland: www.vimeo.com/14488204
The old mill: www.vimeo.com/14577326
autoHDR: www.vimeo.com/15797552
soccer kids: www.vimeo.com/17208358
christmas lights: www.vimeo.com/17912783

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Old Jul 23, 2010, 9:23 PM   #33
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Joho

Fantastic pictures, Are they really all taken with the FZ35/38?

The quality is fantastic. Everyone pushes you towards the DSLR ranges, but with quality pics like these and the camera coming in a convenient package at a great price. I am sorely tempted to get one. I was looking at the Pentax X-k, but these pics blow them out of the water when compared with most of the pics I have seen posted. Admittedly the also blow the other FZ35/38 pics out of the water as well.

Thanks a lot Eye Will. The FZ 35 it's a GREAT cammera for sure, you won't be disappointed!
Don't know the Pentax x-k but i'm REALLY HAPPY with my fz35. It will not reach the IQ of a DSLR but takes much better pictures than a common p&S IMHO
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Old Jul 24, 2010, 9:02 AM   #34
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Joho,

Your videos are fantastic. No doubt a lot of experience and post shot editing to get such professional results, but if you can get videos like this, then I am very tempted. The k-x may get better pics, but as shown by Edufloyd, these seem on a par to the majority I have seen.
My Logic now is that with the camera at 200 or so, it should last me 2 -3 years before I upgrade to an SLR. I will not have trapped myself into a body format due to the lenses I purchase and will have great pics of my kids. By the time I get around to choosing a DSLR they will have come down in price and up in spec from todays cameras I am looking at and will probably have sussed DSLR video and probably have silly things like 3D video capabilities.
Is it true that the Video on the Fz38 is better due to its sensor as compared with the other DSLR's something to do with the way the CMOS and CCD sensors grab their image and means you cannot move the camera much without getting a shuddering effect on the video.

Also do either of you have other images and videos from the FZ35/38 for me to look at I love your stuff. Very inspirational.

Regards and in awe.

Will
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Old Aug 19, 2010, 4:04 AM   #35
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As I did not know where to put it, and it might add to the tutorial, I have the following question, but perhaps others can tell.

I have read about HDR that there are different ways in shooting the photos. Some people put their camera on A-mode, and others on S-mode. I read they use a certain 'algorithm' when it comes to at setting the shutter time.

For instance, I read that someone shot a few photos using the following settings:

#1 +- 0 EV F16 1/20
#2 -1 EV F16 1/40
#3 -2 EV F16 1/60
#4 +1 EV F16 1/10
#5 +2 EV F16 1/6

Also, what metering mode is recommended? (I thought center weighed)
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Old Aug 19, 2010, 1:40 PM   #36
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One of the most important things you should do first is to set the ISO to a particular value other than AUTO. The reason is because as you start playing with aperture, depending on the light condition the camera may bump up the ISO to accommodate the aperture/shutter combo. and that will certainly introduce unwanted noise and lack of color saturation to the image set.

Then my preference is to use aperture priority rather than shutter. Again, the effects caused by different aperture values are much more evident than the ones caused bu shutter (unless you are photographing objects in motion or waterfall and wish to obtain the "cottony" effect on the water).

Ideally you should use manual settings so you have full control of all values at each different exposure.
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Old Aug 19, 2010, 1:46 PM   #37
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Then my preference is to use aperture priority rather than shutter. Again, the effects caused by different aperture values are much more evident than the ones caused bu shutter (unless you are photographing objects in motion or waterfall and wish to obtain the "cottony" effect on the water).
Is this that case?which settings did he use - shutter speed like 4 or 6 seconds , aperture as high as possible?to which number we should limit ISO ?
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Old Aug 19, 2010, 3:37 PM   #38
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I heard that the ISO should be as low as possible all the time, which is ISO 80 for the FZ38. Also, I read and heard that a higher F-stop, like 4 to 8 is best, as you want to get everything as clear as possible on your photo.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, and as for the shutter speed, I'd love to know which settings are good to go for both still and motion subjects.
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Old Aug 19, 2010, 4:58 PM   #39
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Well, the ISO limit depends on the lighting conditions. If you are shooting a scene in bright sunlight, then the ISO should be capped at its lowest value to avoid noise and other artifacts that come with high ISO settings particularly in shaded areas (which are the areas you probably want to bring out with HDR processing). Shutter speed should never be that slow unless you have a tripod.
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Old Aug 19, 2010, 5:53 PM   #40
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Keeping the ISO as low as possible is always the preferred setting (even for cameras with good high ISO capability). However, you need light for that. Stepping down will produce sharper images but increase Depth of Field and will require more light (or slower shutter speed) since you reduce the amount of light hitting the sensor. As for the shutter speed, unless you are trying to freeze motion (not a very good idea when shooting for HDR processing as you most likely will not obtain 3-5 identical images), it does not matter too much. Just make sure you don't drop below unacceptable levels (rule-of-thumb is 1/focal length) or you'll get blurred images caused by camera shake.
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