Go Back   Steve's Digicams Forums > Digital Cameras (Point and Shoot) > Panasonic / Leica

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old Jul 17, 2010, 11:53 AM   #101
Senior Member
 
eysha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: uk
Posts: 1,212
Default

they look the same, except the case, lol.
Attached Images
 
eysha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 17, 2010, 12:10 PM   #102
Senior Member
 
no-ice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: scottish borders
Posts: 121
Default

they are prob all made in the same factory, and offer lifetime warranty as the postage back to china is more than just buying a new set lol. Mine certainly seem of decent quality, and i dont see much difference with the uv filter,and i have a proper Hoya. Im probably just gonna ebay that one and stick with the Zeikos set as they at least come in the nice case.
no-ice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 17, 2010, 12:12 PM   #103
Senior Member
 
eysha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: uk
Posts: 1,212
Default

does the discription of mine match yours? as in mine are glass - if that makes a difference,lol.
eysha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 17, 2010, 12:17 PM   #104
Senior Member
 
no-ice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: scottish borders
Posts: 121
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by eysha View Post
does the discription of mine match yours? as in mine are glass - if that makes a difference,lol.
well mine are glass with metal frame thankfully, description -

  • Professional 3pc Optical Lens Filter Kit: Glass UV Filter; Glass Circular Polarizer Filter; Glass FLD Fluorescent Filter
    Multi-coated filters dramatically reduce any chance of flare, and keep the filter clean to minimize any reduction in image quality
  • Suitable for optical lens of 46mm diameter with front mounting thread (for lens/filters to screw on)
  • UV filter is mainly used to protect the front element of a camera lens and reduce haze and improve contrast by minimizing the amount of ultraviolet (UV) light
  • Circular Polarizing Filter (polarizer) is very important for landscape photography by reducing the contrast between land and sky (sky appears deeper blue) and reducing glare and reflections off of water and other surfaces
  • FLD Fluorescent Filter can be used to correct the greenish tone that appears when fluorescent lighting is present
  • The Zeikos 46mm filter kit is compatible with Panasonic DMC-FZ38, FZ28, FZ18 digital cameras. Pls switch on your camera before trying to attach the filter
no-ice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 17, 2010, 12:19 PM   #105
Senior Member
 
eysha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: uk
Posts: 1,212
Default

well i am lost, lol. i have no idea if one is better than the other. perhaps someone might tell us, lol.
eysha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 17, 2010, 5:45 PM   #106
Senior Member
 
skylark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 265
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by eysha View Post
they look the same, except the case, lol.
Hi Eysha,

On my PC's screen, the shot above of the lens and case looks badly overexposed. The shots of the strawberries also look overexposed.

The EXIF data for all of those photos indicate that you had your metering mode set to spot. I think that's why those photos are over exposed. Try setting your metering mode to center weighted or multiple. Your exposures should be much better.

When starting out, spot metering should only be used for very specific circumstances since it can seriously affect exposure in negative ways. Recommend that you not use it at all until you become more proficient with your camera.

Examples of when spot metering can be helpful:
- Shooting through a doorway WITHOUT flash when the doorway is well lit but the subject in the room is dimly lit. Spot metering will expose for the subject.
- Shooting through a doorway WITH flash. When the flash fires, the doorway will be the highest lit areas in the photo being that it is the closest to the flash. Using multiple or center weighted metering can expose for the flash lit doorway and leave the subject under exposed. Using spot metering will ignore the doorway and expose for the flash on the subject.
- Shooting with flash through a crowd, like at a post graduation congratulations setting. If there is a portion of a person right in front of you, he/she will be highly lit by the flash. Using multiple or center weighted metering can expose for the person and not the graduate. Using spot will expose for the flash on the graduate.

Best regards,
Sky
skylark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 17, 2010, 5:50 PM   #107
Senior Member
 
eysha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: uk
Posts: 1,212
Default

Thanks Sky, yes i agree it is over exposed. I will adjust the camera to centre weighted and try that. I have again noted you comments and reasons which are very helpful so again my thanks.
will report back tomorrow too. E.
eysha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 18, 2010, 12:43 PM   #108
Senior Member
 
mtclimber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon, USA
Posts: 18,143
Default

E-

Just for the purposes of a quick review. You may want to once again review the Quick Start-up Guide that I wrote last month.


The easiest way to get started is to first read completely through the Owner’s Manual and charge the battery. When you are ready to take your first photos, do this:

(1) Set “P” on the Mode Selector. “P” stands for Programmed Auto Mode. It is an Automatic Mode that allows the user to make adjustments to the ISO, to the Exposure Compensation, the Flash Compensation, the WB or White Balance, the Burst Mode, the Scene Modes, and the Focusing Options.
(2) Set to ISO to “Auto ISO. You probably want to consider limiting how far the camera can increase the ISO setting by itself. I would recommend that for outdoor photos that you limit the ISO increase to ISO 400. For indoor use limit the ISO increase to ISO 800.
(3) Set the WB to White Balance to “Auto WB” when shooting out doors. If you are shooting with flash indoors you can keep the Auto WB in place. If you are shooting indoors without flash, use tungsten or incandescent WB, it is indicated by the small logo symbol of a light bulb. Set the Flash mode selector to the Auto Flash position. This is not a perfect mode and there are two instances where the camera can be confused on when to deploy the flash.
(4) Set the focus point initially to center point focus. This allows you to select
exactly where the camera will focus. Focus is attained by gently pressing the
shutter release to the half way point. When the camera locks focus, it will signal
that focus lock to you. Now, while holding the shutter release at the half way
point, re-frame your photo as necessary, using the EVF, or Electronic View
Finder.
(5) When you at pleased with the photo framing, gently depress the shutter to its full length. The emphasis here is on the word gently. Some users refer to the action as squeezing the shutter slowly. The main thing you want to avoid is jabbing at the shutter, as this will cause sudden camera movement overpowering the IS or image stabilization system and blurring the photo.
(6) After the photo has been recorded, check how the exposure looks on the cameras LCD screen. If it is to light, it is over exposed. If it is too dark, it is under exposed. You are looking for the midway point where the properly exposed photo looks like are properly tuned TV set. A photo that is too light can be correct by using Minus Exposure Compensation. Make the initial Minus Exposure Compensation setting EV-0.7, take the photo, and check the result on the camera’s LCD screen. Then increase or decrease the Exposure Compensation to attain the proper LCD screen appearance. If the photo is too dark, you will have to apply Positive Exposure Compensation. Begin with a setting of EV+0.7, and then again adjust the Exposure compensation again, as required to attain the proper LCD screen appearance.
(7) After the photo is taken, you will notice that a flashing red light will blink on the camera. This is an indication that the camera is recording the image to the camera’s flash memory card.
(8) If you are indoors and desire to take a flash photo using the camera’s built-in flash unit (a) check that the Flash Selector is still selected to the Auto Flash mode. (b) recheck that the WB is still set to Auto ISO. (c) Keep the camera to subject distance at 11.5 feet or less to achieve the proper exposure. If you are photographing a group and you must increase the amount of light projected from the camera’s built-in flash unit so that the Flash Range can be increased from the normal maximum Flash Range of 11.5 feet, to a greater value. The adjustment on the Flash Compensation scale works in the same way as Exposure Compensation did. Positive Flash Compensation increases the flash output and the Flash Range. Negative Flash Compensation reduces the flash output and the Flash Range.
(9) If you want to take a close up photo, where the camera to subject distance is 30 inches or less, you will have to select the Macro or Close-up Mode whose symbol is a small Tulip logo. Again the same photo taking procedure will apply. Gently depress the shutter release to the half way point, the camera locks the focus and give you the focus locked signal. Re-frame your focus as necessary after allowing the camera to focus on the exact point desired. If the photo environment’s lighting is low, select the flash, WB , and Auto ISO, as previously described. The built-in flash unit will reduce the light output of the flash due to the reduced Flash Range between camera and subject in this Macro or Close-up mode. After taking your close-up photo check the camera’s LCD screen for proper exposure. If the exposure is too light or too dark you will use the Exposure Compensation procedures outlined above. If you are taking the Macro or Close-up photo while employing flash, once again check the LCD screen for proper exposure. If the result is too light or too dark, you will use the Flash Compensation feature as described previously.
(10)As lighting conditions change you will have to adjust your camera’s WB to get
the correct color in your photo. There are fixed WB settings for bright sunshine,
cloudy or foggy conditions, tungsten or incandescent lighting, and for fluorescent
lighting (several varieties).
(11)Keep in mind that there are indeed minimum focus distances for each lens
position. In the Macro or Close up mode, the minimum focus distance is 2.5
inches. In the normal focus mode, without any zooming, the minimum focus
distance is 36 inches, or 3 feet. As the camera zooms out further, expect the
minimum focus to also increase. So, if the camera will not lock focus, the
problem is most probably that you are at less than the minimum focus distance
for that lens setting.
(12) The better the light, the better your photos will be. As the light level decreases
measurably you will find the photo quality will fall and the camera will have a
harder time recording your photo. So good light is essential to good photos.
(13) Photographers are like concert pianists: the more you practice and learn the
better your photo will be.
(14) Take your time and learn how the changes that you make to your camera,
directly affects your how your camera records your photo.
(15) Here is a quick review of the options on your Mode Selector:
IA= Intelligent Auto. Keep in mind that the ISO range can be selected in the camera menu as well.
P=Programed Auto. This works just like Full Automatic only it allows you to make some changes to ISO, flash options, Exposure Compensation, Flash Compensation, White Balance etc.
S=Shutter Priority. You select the shutter speed and the camera adjusts for the proper exposure by adjusting the aperture.
A=Aperture Priority. You select the aperture and the camera automatically sets the proper exposure by adjust the shutter speed.
M=Manual Mode. You select the shutter speed and aperture and the camera reports if your selection will produce the produce the proper exposure, by displaying the wrong exposure in red color and the correct exposure in green color. So understand that using the Manual Mode will require some manual adjustments on your part.
mtclimber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 18, 2010, 1:07 PM   #109
Senior Member
 
eysha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: uk
Posts: 1,212
Default

Thank you so much Sarah, i will print this out with your permission and keep reffereing to it frequently. I do take a lot of photos and practise a lot but don't show them on here as it would take up space that could better be used by better photos.
I guess i am just really dissapointed in my gorilla photos and wish there was a way to correct over exposed photos but i guess there isn't.
Anyway many thanks again and i am sure other readers will also appreciate your post as i do.
E.
eysha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 18, 2010, 3:11 PM   #110
Senior Member
 
skylark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 265
Default

Hi Eyasha,

One more thing regarding using spot "metering" (or when not to use it.) The following situation comes up often so practicing it at home beforehand will give you confidence later and insure you get the best shot.

When taking pictures of people in daylight with high backlighting, using center weighted or multiple metering will expose for the back-lit background and the people's faces will be very underexposed. It's possible to use spot metering to expose for the face but then the background will become almost all white with no detail.

In those circumstances, it's better to leave metering set to center weighted or multiple, and set the flash to forced on. The metering will expose for the back-lit background but the forced flash will brighten up the people's faces to match the background illumination. It's best to be 8 feet or less from the subject to allow the flash to work. Too far and the flash will not illuminate the subject well.

A good way to practice this is to set a stuffed animal, large doll or even a bag of chips on a window sill. With bright daylight in the background:
--- Set metering to center weighted or multiple. Take a picture of the window. The background will be exposed nicely but the subject will be dark and severely underexposed.
--- Set metering to spot, place the spot on the subject and take the picture. The subject should be exposed properly but the background will be blown out and almost all white.
--- Set metering back to center weighted or multiple. Set the flash to forced on (by pressing the right navigation button). Stand about 6 feet from the subject. Take the picture. The subject should be exposed nicely and the background should look fine also. --- Take pictures while standing 3, 6, 9, 12, 15 feet from the subject. This will give you an idea of how the flash illuminates the subject using forced flash with back lighting at various distances.

Even if the scene is not as severe as the above scenario, when shooting more or less toward the sun and there are unwanted shadows on the faces, setting the flash to forced on can expose the faces nicely while retaining detail in the background.

Best regards,
Sky

Last edited by skylark; Jul 18, 2010 at 3:14 PM.
skylark is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 4:45 PM.