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Old Jul 13, 2010, 5:17 PM   #21
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Thanks Martin, i should have known that.
Frank, yes i have my daughter's photos so lucky i guess. my batteries are all new as my Fuji took AA batteries. yes burn means to CD so i never get rid of my originals from my card until i have all my photos burnt to CD and saved to an extenal hard drive too.
no-ice. i just pointed and shot out of the wimdow as it was a moving bus and there was no time to mess with the camera or lens or anything else which is why i kept the camera on iA all the time.
didn't know had to do anything with the polarizing lens other than screw it on, so i guess i am at fault there via ignorance. instruct me again and i will try again before sending them back.
Thanks again for the replies.
E.
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 5:36 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by eysha View Post
Thanks Martin, i should have known that.
Frank, yes i have my daughter's photos so lucky i guess. my batteries are all new as my Fuji took AA batteries. yes burn means to CD so i never get rid of my originals from my card until i have all my photos burnt to CD and saved to an extenal hard drive too.
no-ice. i just pointed and shot out of the wimdow as it was a moving bus and there was no time to mess with the camera or lens or anything else which is why i kept the camera on iA all the time.
didn't know had to do anything with the polarizing lens other than screw it on, so i guess i am at fault there via ignorance. instruct me again and i will try again before sending them back.
Thanks again for the replies.
E.

i havent played with my filters yet, but will prob have a turn at the weekend. I recently toyed with the idea of selling my FZ38 and actually buying a used cheap DSLR camera. i have been hoping for an increase in quality from my sony H20 but so far i havent really seen a big improvement.

As for the polariser, you can turn it whilst it is on the camera, if you take a landscape shot, try a few pics with the filter in a few spots, you should find a point where the sky appears 'more blue' trial and error i guess.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 1:39 AM   #23
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Hi, i am just back from my safari park trip and when i looked at my photos i was so disappointed in a lot of them. i am posting only these few as they show what i want to show. being new i kept my camera on the iA setting throughout for safelty as i am new to photography and i knew there wouldn't be time to mess with exposure, iso etc.

...snip...

Do i have a faulty camera? any help would be great so thanks in advance if you can help.
Anyone know how to improve the colours to save them, as in programme alterations as opposed to deleting them all.
Hi eysha,

Very sorry to hear about your disappointing safari park trip.

The tips I would like to offer for future trips are learn how to use the live histogram and exposure compensation. If you learn how to do these two things it will improve your exposures tremendously! The histogram is an invaluable aid to getting proper exposures. The more you use it, the better your exposures will become. There will be very few surprises and you won't be misled by what you see on the LCD screen.

Here's a link to a thread regarding tips to make a great photo for beginners on a FZ35.

http://forums.steves-digicams.com/pa...-beginner.html

In post #14 I discussed using exposure compensation and the live histogram. If you learn how to use the histogram and exposure compensation, you will see a huge improvement in your FZ38 photos, guaranteed.

Don't be reluctant to use P Mode. P mode is essentially iA mode when the camera is reset. It just gives you access to controls that are not available in iA mode.

Best regards,
Sky

Last edited by skylark; Jul 14, 2010 at 1:42 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 2:02 AM   #24
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I had thought (perhaps incorrectly) that these days polarisers were of the circular variety - meaning the orientation of them has no affect on the polarisation?
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 3:59 AM   #25
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Thanks for the posts.
no-ice i too am considering sending the camera back and also wish i had gone for a DSLR, i am just so disappointed with this camera and only bought it after reading reviews here. Having kept the camera on the iA mode (which is supposed to be idiot proof) i expected better but didn't get it. Yes i have my daughter's photos to fall back on but that isn't the point.
regarding the polarizor no one mentioned that i had to fiddle with that. i thought it was just a case of scew it on and use it. If i have to keep turning it i might as well get a DSLR.
Skylark, thanks for your tips. I am happy to learn more always but from advice here i kept the camera on iA mode for safety, to be sure of getting good shots and it just didn't happen for me. I still wonder if the camera is faulty as i know i did not change the exposure compensation or anything else, i simply used the camera as a point and shoot - no fiddling with it was ever involved i can promise you that.
Chillgreg, if i have to mess with the polerization lens there is no point. i believed it was a scew on and go thing. no one else said any different. Thanks for all the posts but i am still very disappointed with this camera.
E.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 5:28 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by eysha View Post
Thanks for the posts.
no-ice i too am considering sending the camera back and also wish i had gone for a DSLR, i am just so disappointed with this camera and only bought it after reading reviews here. Having kept the camera on the iA mode (which is supposed to be idiot proof) i expected better but didn't get it. Yes i have my daughter's photos to fall back on but that isn't the point.
regarding the polarizor no one mentioned that i had to fiddle with that. i thought it was just a case of scew it on and use it. If i have to keep turning it i might as well get a DSLR.
Skylark, thanks for your tips. I am happy to learn more always but from advice here i kept the camera on iA mode for safety, to be sure of getting good shots and it just didn't happen for me. I still wonder if the camera is faulty as i know i did not change the exposure compensation or anything else, i simply used the camera as a point and shoot - no fiddling with it was ever involved i can promise you that.
Chillgreg, if i have to mess with the polerization lens there is no point. i believed it was a scew on and go thing. no one else said any different. Thanks for all the posts but i am still very disappointed with this camera.
E.
Hi Eysha

As I can tell you are bitterly disappointed already, I will choose my words carefully (hopefully).

I certainly understand how you must feel. No one would begrudge you if you decided to take the camera back.

Probably very few people as a percentage of buyers worry about any sort of filter - perhaps a UV filter to protect the lens at the most. My point re the polarising filter was in general, not directed at you, sorry if I inadvertently added to your dismay! :-s

I also want to address the taking photos through glass issue: I have found that the modern cameras (as distinct from the AF systems used in earlier digital and even later film cameras), can more often than not achieve focus through the glass. Of course it can depend on many factors, and you made sensible precautions since this was a once only opportunity, but in general for future use I wouldn't worry about this too much.

With regards to the main point - whether or not the camera was in fact set to the iA mode at the time the photos were taken, we can make this a bit more black and white for digestion. As JimC remarked, 2 of the photos above have recorded the camera as being set to the P Program mode, with the associated ISO and Compensation adjustments. So then we can deduce that either:

a) the camera has a major internal electronics fault; or
b) the camera was in fact set to P, not iA

As the mode dial can be inadvertently moved quite easily on any camera (except the Pentax K-7 DSLR which has a lock on the dial), I leave it to you to try and put aside your feelings for just a moment and ask yourself it was even 1% possible that the dial was moved accidentally. If you are then sure it was not, perhaps before you put yourself through the rigmarole of returning the camera, you'd like to do some more test shots with your daughter in attendance to assist if required, then report back with some more photos.

Although Panasonic in general is reknown as a very reliable brand, and the FZ35 itself is made in Japan, large-scale electronics manufacturing plants have a tangible (although secret) QA reporting process, which would establish some level of faulty units.

I would imagine that if your unit had such a drastic fault, it would be showing up all the time, and should be easily observable.

You would agree I'm sure, that of the hundred's of thousands of sample photos and detailed forum discussion on the internet, including here, DPR, Flickr, Amazon, et al, that in principle the camera is capable of taking the sort of photos that you desire.

The problem with a DSLR is the much bigger weight, and the constant problem of dust getting on the sensor whenever the lens is removed. Unless you specifically bought a Panasonic DSLR, it is unlikely that the Auto modes on most DLSRs can achieve the flexibility that the Panasonic iA mode can, eg Macro, Face detect, Intelligent ISO etc. Also consider that a DSLR outfit with bags and accessories is a significant theft target when travelling. In certain circumstances, a DSLR is vastly more capable than any small-sensor P&S style camera, such as the FZ35, but primarily this is restricted to situations involving very fast and unpredictable action and sports, and of course low-light photography.

As Sarah has pointed out, a slave flash will mitigate much of the low-light issue, and as Jack (Setter Dog) has revealed, the quality of frames captured from the HD movie mode at 30 fps (frames per second) is more than sufficient for most uses. (A typical DSLR shoots around 4-5 fps)

So you can see that unless you determine that your own usage patterns will involve a high percentage of situations requiring the specific advantages a DSLR can provide, that it may well be overkill for you.

And of course to get any DSLR to match the zoom of the FZ35, you will need to spend at least $2000 and carry 5 pounds of lenses around!

Sorry if this is repeated from other posts, but have you considered taking a basic photography course at a community college or similar? I know that Sarah Joyce teaches at such a college, and maybe she can assist you in selecting a suitable course near to you.

I have taken the time to reply in this fashion because I really do care, and want you to find a happy solution. Make the right decision for YOU Eysha, but perhaps giving the FZ35 another chance would be prudent, again for you.

All the very best
Greg
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 5:36 AM   #27
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Eysha... if it is any consolation, I too learned the hard way with my pictures of New Orleans, that AI wasn't always the best setting. It was my first trip after owning the camera for only a few days. But I've continued to read, play and experiment and have found the camera really does work well and produce some amazing results. I was really happy with my fireworks shots from the 4th of July.

Don't be too discouraged and don't give up. Best of luck on your next excursion.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 6:21 AM   #28
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Eysha, I would say you sould first make up your mind wether you need a P+S or a DSLR camera. The fz38 is in the middle. If you go for the DSLR, things may prove more difficult for you to manage, (even though they are not).
For sure, do not make any move yet, untill you practice and talk A LOT, about the fz.
Just say 'I'll stick with the fz for some time (you determine that) and IF after that I am STILL dissappointed, then I'll go and buy the best slr, or whatever." Dont worry, there are always those cameras out there!
alexander
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 8:57 AM   #29
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Thank you Greg for taking the time to post, i really do appreciate it. Regarding the filters, you in no way added to my dismay. I did buy the filters after reading posts here and thought it advisable to get them, i am not so sure now. perhaps i should have bought just the one to protect the lens as the polarizing filter didn't do a very good job. Maybe it was just the make or maybe i was just unlucky.
"As JimC remarked, 2 of the photos above have recorded the camera as being set to the P Program mode" How can he tell? I have looked at the EXIF and cannot see where it says that. I do know i had the camera set to iA mode throughout for safety.
"I would imagine that if your unit had such a drastic fault, it would be showing up all the time, and should be easily observable." Can you explain this please? Here i would add that a lot of my photos were as already shown in that some were ok but others taken at the same time were over exposed. I am attaching 4 more to show my point. I don't want anyone to think that only the ones i showed were affected, quite a lot were. I agree about the DSLR's being heavier but have never used the video mode and that was not a priority for me and would have been happy without it. I did take a small university course in photography but it was really more about how to adjus photos in photoshop elements and very little about actually taking good shots. There are no courses near me and i don't think Sarah can help as i live in the UK. You will see from the attachments that two are good while two are not. That is my query because they were taken at the same time, within seconds of each other so how did the over exposure happen? You will agree, i am sure, that it takes time to turn the mode dial from iA to P, or any other mode, and time to hit the exposure button and time to alter it by +2, seconds maybe but still time taken, and why would i do that? I had no intentions of fiddling with the camera in case i messed up so i left it in the safe mode of iA. If i can get a logical explanation why it happened then i will be happy but if not then i only have a short time to return it if faulty, i did not buy the insurance on it. I am happy to keep the camera and learn how to use it better but i am worried it is faulty and i will be stuck with it and have to buy again.
I cut the size of the photos to 10 inches and 72 resolution for upload but have not altered them in any way at all. The first two were taken at 13.53pm and the second two at 14.20pm - within seconds of each other so why the difference?
Again Greg i want to thank you for your post and i really do appreciate your time and sentiment - i really do - and it is so very nice that you care.
kindest regards
E.
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Last edited by eysha; Jul 14, 2010 at 9:00 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 9:10 AM   #30
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Kabaris thanks for the post. I don't think i need a DSLR really, i just wanted a camera that took good shots that i could use for my artwork and the reviews here were really good. I bought my Fuji fs8000 because of the reviews on Steve's digicam too but that was two and a half years ago now so i wanted to update.
Muzicman61, thanks for your post too, i really appreciate the help and encouragement. I am sorry to hear about your trip too, perhaps, unlike me, you will be able to return there, i hope so. It is also nice, in a way, to know that iA isn't always the best setting. I thought i was just playing safe until i learnt to use the camera better. I never did learn with my Fuji, i just used Auto but really wanted to learn how to use this one properly. I have read the manuel and read all the posts here and taken notes too, lol and still got it wrong - or was it a faulty camera? I await the opinon of the more exprienced here before i decide to return it or keep it after posting the lates 4 photos for consideration.
Many thanks again
E
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