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Old Aug 12, 2010, 4:28 PM   #1
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Default my new TZ10 not so happy

after reading a lot of review i end up buying this cam the TZ10
but after shooting my first shots indoor i'm kind of disappointed

before i had a 7Mb sony w120 and i also has a Nikon D50

the shots that i took today are 400 iso shots, i can't post them because i have co-workers in those photos but i can attach a 100%CROP

i can almost say that my old camera does better shots, at list in those conditions

i'm not really happy with those results, firmware 1.1
may be some setting that manipulate files?
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Old Aug 12, 2010, 4:39 PM   #2
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Take some additional photos and post the results here also the EXIF data so we can help you troubleshoot...
Set Noise Reduction to -1 or even -2 (I use -2)...Saturation +1...Sharpness +1...Try changing white balance to tungsten...Use "A" setting for Aperture...use flash if less than 6-7ft...MAKE SURE you hold the camera absolutely still and focus at half shutter then DEPRESS the shutter button smoothly without moving the camera...

One handed "snapshots" don't go very well with HIGH megapixel cameras..ALSO hold the camera still for at least 1 second after you depress the shutter to insure you minimize camera shake...use Stabilization Mode 2 also...

Take a look at these in a Dino Museum with the ZS7...all without flash..
http://forums.steves-digicams.com/pa...no-museum.html
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 2:35 PM   #3
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There is very little to no help here. This is what I've been talking about regarding the ZS5-ZS7...the Monet effect. Images look OK as long as they are not cropped. The resolution is simply not there. However, I found that by lowering the MP to 8 you actually get much better images. You might give that a try. I tried other brands but they are not much better either. The real problem is being caused by two factors: 1) the high number of MP on a small sensor. The old models have sensors that are not much smaller than ZS7 but the # of MP is half if not more (my H1 is 5MP), and; 2) by the very aggressive NR applied to ISO 400 and above in order to keep noise under absolute control. Old models went up to ISO 400 or perhaps 800 max. That means, you should really stay at ISO 200 or less. Today, some of those little cameras offer ISO 1600+ (pleease...this is pure marketing, nothing else as anything above 800 - and I'm pushing here - is unusable) but in reality, anything above 200 will be smudged up. I have the ZS6 (actually, I also have a ZS7 in a sealed box from Amazon, which I will soon return) and the sole purpose of it is to add flexibility. I can always have a camera with me. I'd never ever have any of these little super zoom 12 MP+ cameras as my primary photographic gear. But, that's me.
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 2:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTZ470 View Post
Take a look at these in a Dino Museum with the ZS7...all without flash..
...
Those images look real good (I'm sure there was PP involved but that's not the point). However, I'd be surprised if a cropped image does not present the same smudging effect evident in the OP's shot.
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 3:08 PM   #5
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Those images look real good (I'm sure there was PP involved but that's not the point). However, I'd be surprised if a cropped image does not present the same smudging effect evident in the OP's shot.
Yes, Tulio PP was applied one click of sharpness or none dependant upon photo...and lightening of shadows 2 notches utilising Windows Photo Gallery, I don't even use aftermarket software...these were easily usable SOOC...after all you gave me the settings for the ZS7...lol...

The biggest problem I see is people's photo taking technique, disregarding the stabilizing of the camera...after many photos that were good, but just not quite there with the ZS7, I changed my thinking and started stabilizing the camera every possible way to get the most stable shot at all cost...bracing on anything and everything even my knees like Gary said he did to get the Church Band shots with the ZS3...the results speak for themselves especially with low shutter speeds...so first start with your technique of depressing the shutter properly and that is the first step to EXCELLENT photos for my money...

Thats why "snapshot" should be banned from the photo world as "snapshots" are 95% the reason for blurred photos along with indoor and slow shutter...

I like Sarah's interpretation: "Depress the Shutter Button slowly without moving or shaking the camera"...

And that gets us back to your interpretation: High Megapixels and camera shake do not go together and "help" cause a part of the smear problem...not just a high megapixel sensor...
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 5:56 PM   #6
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so the point seems to be the shacking of the camera conbined with the sensor size

anyone tried to do still photo on tripod without stabilization to see if at 400 iso could get good results

an old trick was to take the photo with autoshouting so you don't press the button, when it is possible
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 7:09 PM   #7
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It just seem strange that a camera with IS is having camera shake problems. My friends ZS3 does not have these problems on indoor shots with good lighting at 400iso. Do not need to think about pre press then press. Just press. That just seems odd to me.
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 8:52 PM   #8
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I added an accessory Slave Flash to provide more light, and thus, hold down the ISO number. That has helped and as LTZ reports, stabilizing that camera is equally important.

Here is a link to see what the results look like with the FZ-35:

http://anchorse.smugmug.com/Other/Pa...98_FZhbM-L.jpg

Here is link to see what the results looks like with a ZS-3used as a fill flash:

http://anchorse.smugmug.com/Other/ZS...47_zUpu7-L.jpg

Sarah Joyce

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Old Aug 14, 2010, 12:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
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It just seem strange that a camera with IS is having camera shake problems. My friends ZS3 does not have these problems on indoor shots with good lighting at 400iso. Do not need to think about pre press then press. Just press. That just seems odd to me.
At what Shutter Speed?

Snapshoting or just pressing the shutter button fully all at once is the easiest way to smear the zillions of pixels and become frustrated with missing shots or smearing/focusing/stabilization at slow shutter speeds...proper technique of pressing halfway then depressing the shutter fully after getting a "green" box is going to give you many more keepers and also makes a good habit...
Also using anything and everything to brace on...if the camera can't see well...it can't focus well or stabilize very well....

Limiting to ISO400 Max is a must on the ZS7...
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Old Aug 14, 2010, 12:23 AM   #10
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1/100 was the shutter speed on one of them. But I know that with my dslr, pre press is needs to spool up the lens IS. But when I shoot a prime non IS on my 15mp sensor. Just one smooth click and the shot is taken without any smear in extreme low light. At 1/16 shutter speed at 1600iso. Nice and smooth shutter press and all is fine. And I have mirror slap with the dslr.
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Last edited by shoturtle; Aug 14, 2010 at 12:56 AM.
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