Go Back   Steve's Digicams Forums > Digital Cameras (Point and Shoot) > Panasonic / Leica

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old Jan 9, 2011, 1:52 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 51
Default help me use the FZ35 better

hi friends
i have a PANASONIC fz 35 and use it as a point and shoot photo user .
now i want to learn the functions/modes which are on the jog wheel like(A,S,P,M)

what are these functions and when and where should i use them? ..

also whats the best for night shots like in clubs on beach etc ?

any site wher i can learn basic photography of the above modes?

hope all help me use the fz35 more better .
martin_paes is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old Jan 9, 2011, 2:15 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Wes James's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 332
Default

Hi, Martin-
If you read through this forum, you'll see a lot of posts on the FZ35... It's got a lot of capabilities to go beyond a P&S camera. If you read through them, you'll be able to find a lot of good info on the camera that will help you take it further. Additionally, member mtclimber has written a user guide for the FZ40 here-
http://forums.steves-digicams.com/pa...40-newbie.html and most of the info is applicable to your camera as well. Good luck with it- and above all, shoot a lot of pictures, stay in P (program) mode to begin with, and experiment with color balance settings and exposure comp.
Wes James is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 9, 2011, 2:19 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 51
Default

thank u WE JAMES

will go thru the post by mtclimber . hope its easy to understand
martin_paes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 9, 2011, 3:44 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
mtclimber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon, USA
Posts: 18,143
Default

martin-

I have also written a Beginner's Guide for the FZ35 as well that might be more helpful to you. Here it is:


Panasonic FZ-35 beginner’s Guide

The easiest way to get started is to first read completely through the Owner’s Manual and charge the battery. When you are ready to take your first photos, do this:

(1) Set “P” on the Mode Selector. “P” stands for Programmed Auto Mode. It is an Automatic Mode that allows the user to make adjustments to the ISO/Sensitivity, to the Exposure Compensation, the Flash Compensation, the WB or White Balance, the Burst Mode, the Scene Modes, and the Focusing Options.

(2) Set to ISO to “Auto ISO. You probably want to consider limiting how far the camera can increase the ISO/Sensitivity setting by itself. I would recommend that for outdoor photos that you limit the ISO/Sensitivity increase to ISO 400. For indoor use limit the ISO increase to ISO 800.


(3) Set the WB to White Balance to “Auto WB” when shooting out doors. If you are shooting with flash indoors you can keep the Auto WB in place. If you are shooting indoors without flash, use tungsten or incandescent WB, it is indicated by the small logo symbol of a light bulb. Set the Flash mode selector to the Auto Flash position. This is not a perfect mode and there are two instances where the camera can be confused on when to deploy the flash.

(4) Set the focus point initially to center point focus. This allows you to select
exactly where the camera will focus. Focus is attained by gently pressing the
shutter release to the half way point. When the camera locks focus, it will signal
that focus lock to you. Now, while holding the shutter release at the half way
point, re-frame your photo as necessary, using the EVF, or Electronic View
Finder.

(5) When you at pleased with the photo framing, gently depress the shutter to its full length. The emphasis here is on the word gently. Some users refer to the action as squeezing the shutter slowly. The main thing you want to avoid is jabbing at the shutter, as this will cause sudden camera movement overpowering the IS or image stabilization system and blurring the photo.

(6) After the photo has been recorded, check how the exposure looks on the cameras LCD screen. If it is to light, it is over exposed. If it is too dark, it is under exposed. You are looking for the midway point where the properly exposed photo looks like are properly tuned TV set. A photo that is too light can be correct by using Minus Exposure Compensation. Make the initial Minus Exposure Compensation setting EV-0.7, take the photo, and check the result on the camera’s LCD screen. Then increase or decrease the Exposure Compensation to attain the proper LCD screen appearance. If the photo is too dark, you will have to apply Positive Exposure Compensation. Begin with a setting of EV+0.7, and then again adjust the Exposure compensation again, as required to attain the proper LCD screen appearance.


(7) After the photo is taken, you will notice that a flashing red light will blink on the camera. This is an indication that the camera is recording the image to the camera’s flash memory card.

(8) If you are indoors and desire to take a flash photo using the camera’s built-in flash unit (a) check that the Flash Selector is still selected to the Auto Flash mode. (b) recheck that the WB is still set to Auto ISO. (c) Keep the camera to subject distance at 11.5 feet or less to achieve the proper exposure. If you are photographing a group and you must increase the amount of light projected from the camera’s built-in flash unit so that the Flash Range can be increased from the normal maximum Flash Range of 11.5 feet, to a greater value. The adjustment on the Flash Compensation scale works in the same way as Exposure Compensation did. Positive Flash Compensation increases the flash output and the Flash Range. Negative Flash Compensation reduces the flash output and the Flash Range.


(9) If you want to take a close up photo, where the camera to subject distance is 30 inches or less, you will have to select the Macro or Close-up Mode whose symbol is a small Tulip logo. Again the same photo taking procedure will apply. Gently depress the shutter release to the half way point, the camera locks the focus and give you the focus locked signal. Re-frame your focus as necessary after allowing the camera to focus on the exact point desired. If the photo environment’s lighting is low, select the flash, WB , and Auto ISO, as previously described. The built-in flash unit will reduce the light output of the flash due to the reduced Flash Range between camera and subject in this Macro or Close-up mode. After taking your close-up photo check the camera’s LCD screen for proper exposure. If the exposure is too light or too dark you will use the Exposure Compensation procedures outlined above. If you are taking the Macro or Close-up photo while employing flash, once again check the LCD screen for proper exposure. If the result is too light or too dark, you will use the Flash Compensation feature as described previously.

(10)As lighting conditions change you will have to adjust your camera’s WB to get
the correct color in your photo. There are fixed WB settings for bright sunshine,
cloudy or foggy conditions, tungsten or incandescent lighting, and for fluorescent
lighting (several varieties).

(11)Keep in mind that there are indeed minimum focus distances for each lens
position. In the Macro or Close up mode, the minimum focus distance is 2.5
inches. In the normal focus mode, without any zooming, the minimum focus
distance is 36 inches, or 3 feet. As the camera zooms out further, expect the
minimum focus to also increase. So, if the camera will not lock focus, the
problem is most probably that you are at less than the minimum focus distance
for that lens setting.

(12) The better the light, the better your photos will be. As the light level decreases
measurably you will find the photo quality will fall and the camera will have a
harder time recording your photo. So good light is essential to good photos.

(13) Photographers are like concert pianists: the more you practice and learn, the
better your photos will be.

(14) Take your time and learn how the changes that you make to your camera,
directly affect how your camera records your photo.

(15) Here is a quick review of the options on your Mode Selector:

IA= Intelligent Auto. Keep in mind that the ISO/Sensitivity range can be selected in the camera menu as well.
P=Programed Auto. This works just like Full Automatic only it allows you to make some changes to ISO/Sensitivity, flash options, Exposure Compensation, Flash Compensation, White Balance etc.
S=Shutter Priority. You select the shutter speed and the camera adjusts for the proper exposure by adjusting the aperture.
A=Aperture Priority. You select the aperture and the camera automatically sets the proper exposure by adjust the shutter speed.
M=Manual Mode. You select the shutter speed and aperture and the camera reports if your selection will produce the produce the proper exposure, by displaying the wrong exposure in red color and the correct exposure in green color. So understand that using the Manual Mode will require some manual adjustments on your part.

Important Note: This guide is not intended to replace the Panasonic FZ35 Owner’s Manual. It is only an informational guide to facilitate new owners getting started with their FZ35 cameras.
mtclimber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 11, 2011, 6:30 AM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 51
Default

thank u very much mt climber(sarah)

i think i have to practice what u said.. btw if i want an extra external flash how do i go about with that . as i see no flash hook provided on the fz 35 ..any recommendations?
martin_paes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 11, 2011, 9:12 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
saly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: near Los Angeles, CA USA
Posts: 4,764
Default

martin - The FZ35 does not have a hot shoe to attach an external flash to. You could get a slave flash (something that is triggered when your built-in flash fires) but you would have to hand hold it.
saly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 11, 2011, 11:08 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
mtclimber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon, USA
Posts: 18,143
Default

Saly

With Slave Flash units: most come with accessory mounting brackets that screw into the camera's tripod mount. Alternatively, the Slave Flash can be mounted on a tripod when multiple flashes are used.

The most important issue is to get a Slave Flash that has some real light output. Inexpensive Slave Flash units are famous for not producing much light. In some cases it is less than the camera's own built-in flash unit.

I do a lot of work with Slave Flashes and have found the Canon HF1 and the Metz 28CS2 to be very reliable and powerful.

Sarah Joyce
mtclimber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 15, 2011, 6:51 AM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 51
Default

ok sarah . one more thing i must click pics in raw or jpeg mode? for best pics

Last edited by martin_paes; Jan 15, 2011 at 6:59 AM.
martin_paes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 15, 2011, 11:45 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
mtclimber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon, USA
Posts: 18,143
Default

Martin, no offense intended-

But at this stage of your progress, I would stick with .jpeg images, as they are much simpler to deal with in your shooting. RAW images make post processing mandatory and require a much more substantial workflow.

So plan on keeping things simple and use .jpeg format images.

Sarah joyce
mtclimber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 15, 2011, 11:55 AM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 51
Default

ok sarah as u say .. any more tips for a newbie?
martin_paes is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:33 AM.