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Old Mar 1, 2011, 7:31 PM   #1
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Default How to Set FZ35 for speed burst

Hi: Based on recommendations from this forum, I ordered an FZ35. We're really excited about the camera. What little we've done has been great.

Our most pressing need at the moment is to take a burst of pictures of a pitcher throwing a baseball. We can't figure out the best way to set this up. So far, the action shots have been blurred. We tried to use Shutter priority, but must be doing something wrong.

Could anyone please point us in the right direction?

Thank you.
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Old Mar 1, 2011, 7:59 PM   #2
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Phototakerwannabe-

Welcome to the Panasonic P+S folder. We are delighted that you dropped by. Please make yourself comfortable. We're an active and friendly group that enjoys helping each other.

Any burst action shots, due to the high shutter speed required to get anywhere near to freezing the action, requires a whole lot of light, as well as some numerically high ISO settings that are the other half of that two way puzzle.

You mention using Shutter Priority: how high have you been setting the ISO, the shutter speed, and tell us about the lighting conditions, please. Could it be that you are using Auto ISO? if so, that will not develop the shutter speed required to freeze the action. Even with excellent lighting, you need to numerically increase the ISO setting to at least ISO and probably ISO 800 depending on the amount of light available in your photo environment.

So at this juncture, we need more information to really address your problem. I have also attached a FZ35/38 Beginner's Guide, that we offer to all memebers. I wrote this little tutorial in August 2010, and then subsequently wrote one for the FZ40/45 in January of this year.

Sarah Joyce


Panasonic FZ-35/38 Beginner’s Guide

The easiest way to get started is to first read completely through the Owner’s Manual and charge the battery. When you are ready to take your first photos, do this:

(1) Set “P” on the Mode Selector. “P” stands for Programmed Auto Mode. It is an Automatic Mode that allows the user to make adjustments to the ISO/Sensitivity, to the Exposure Compensation, the Flash Compensation, the WB or White Balance, the Burst Mode, the Scene Modes, and the Focusing Options.

(2) Set to ISO to “Auto ISO. You probably want to consider limiting how far the camera can increase the ISO/Sensitivity setting by itself. I would recommend that for outdoor photos that you limit the ISO/Sensitivity increase to ISO 400. For indoor use limit the ISO increase to ISO 800.


(3) Set the WB to White Balance to “Auto WB” when shooting out doors. If you are shooting with flash indoors you can keep the Auto WB in place. If you are shooting indoors without flash, use tungsten or incandescent WB, it is indicated by the small logo symbol of a light bulb. Set the Flash mode selector to the Auto Flash position. This is not a perfect mode and there are two instances where the camera can be confused on when to deploy the flash.

(4) Set the focus point initially to center point focus. This allows you to select
exactly where the camera will focus. Focus is attained by gently pressing the
shutter release to the half way point. When the camera locks focus, it will signal
that focus lock to you. Now, while holding the shutter release at the half way
point, re-frame your photo as necessary, using the EVF, or Electronic View
Finder.

(5) When you at pleased with the photo framing, gently depress the shutter to its full length. The emphasis here is on the word gently. Some users refer to the action as squeezing the shutter slowly. The main thing you want to avoid is jabbing at the shutter, as this will cause sudden camera movement overpowering the IS or image stabilization system and blurring the photo.

(6) After the photo has been recorded, check how the exposure looks on the cameras LCD screen. If it is to light, it is over exposed. If it is too dark, it is under exposed. You are looking for the midway point where the properly exposed photo looks like are properly tuned TV set. A photo that is too light can be correct by using Minus Exposure Compensation. Make the initial Minus Exposure Compensation setting EV-0.7, take the photo, and check the result on the camera’s LCD screen. Then increase or decrease the Exposure Compensation to attain the proper LCD screen appearance. If the photo is too dark, you will have to apply Positive Exposure Compensation. Begin with a setting of EV+0.7, and then again adjust the Exposure compensation again, as required to attain the proper LCD screen appearance.


(7) After the photo is taken, you will notice that a flashing red light will blink on the camera’s LCD screen. This is an indication that the camera is recording the image to the camera’s flash memory card.

(8) If you are indoors and desire to take a flash photo using the camera’s built-in flash unit (a) check that the Flash Selector is still selected to the Auto Flash mode. (b) recheck that the WB is still set to Auto ISO. (c) Keep the camera to subject distance at 11.5 feet or less to achieve the proper exposure. If you are photographing a group and you must increase the amount of light projected from the camera’s built-in flash unit so that the Flash Range can be increased from the normal maximum Flash Range of 11.5 feet, to a greater value. The adjustment on the Flash Compensation scale works in the same way as Exposure Compensation did. Positive Flash Compensation increases the flash output and the Flash Range. Negative Flash Compensation reduces the flash output and the Flash Range.


(9) If you want to take a close up photo, where the camera to subject distance is 30 cm (.99 feet) or less, you will have to select the Macro or Close-up Mode whose symbol is a small Tulip logo. Again the same photo taking procedure will apply. Gently depress the shutter release to the half way point, the camera locks the focus and give you the focus locked signal. Re-frame your focus as necessary after allowing the camera to focus on the exact point desired. If the photo environment’s lighting is low, select the flash, WB , and Auto ISO, as previously described. The built-in flash unit will reduce the light output of the flash due to the reduced Flash Range between camera and subject in this Macro or Close-up mode. After taking your close-up photo check the camera’s LCD screen for proper exposure. If the exposure is too light or too dark you will use the Exposure Compensation procedures outlined above. If you are taking the Macro or Close-up photo while employing flash, once again check the LCD screen for proper exposure. If the result is too light or too dark, you will use the Flash Compensation feature as described previously.

(10)As lighting conditions change you will have to adjust your camera’s WB to get
the correct color in your photo. There are fixed WB settings for bright sunshine,
cloudy or foggy conditions, tungsten or incandescent lighting, and for fluorescent
lighting (several varieties).

(11)Keep in mind that there are indeed minimum focus distances for each lens
position. In the Macro or Close up mode, the minimum focus distance is 2.5
inches. In the normal focus mode, without any zooming, the minimum focus
distance is 36 inches, or 3 feet. As the camera zooms out further, expect the
minimum focus to also increase. So, if the camera will not lock focus, the
problem is most probably that you are at less than the minimum focus distance
for that lens setting.

(12) The better the light, the better your photos will be. As the light level decreases
measurably you will find the photo quality will fall and the camera will have a
harder time recording your photo. So good light is essential to good photos.

(13) Photographers are like concert pianists: the more you practice and learn, the
better your photos will be.

(14) Take your time and learn how the changes that you make to your camera,
directly affect how your camera records your photo.

(15) Here is a quick review of the options on your Mode Selector:

IA= Intelligent Auto. Keep in mind that the ISO/Sensitivity range can be selected in the camera menu as well.
P=Programed Auto. This works just like Full Automatic only it allows you to make some changes to ISO/Sensitivity, flash options, Exposure Compensation, Flash Compensation, White Balance etc.
S=Shutter Priority. You select the shutter speed and the camera adjusts for the proper exposure by adjusting the aperture.
A=Aperture Priority. You select the aperture and the camera automatically sets the proper exposure by adjust the shutter speed.
M=Manual Mode. You select the shutter speed and aperture and the camera reports if your selection will produce the produce the proper exposure, by displaying the wrong exposure in red color and the correct exposure in green color. So understand that using the Manual Mode will require some manual adjustments on your part.

Important Note: This guide is not intended to replace the Panasonic FZ35/38 Owner’s Manual. It is only an informational guide to facilitate new owners getting started with their FZ35/38 cameras.
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Old Mar 1, 2011, 8:02 PM   #3
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Depending on your light settings the FZ35 has a "scene mode" for burst shots, although the photo resolution is reduced to 3mp or less. It shoots at 6FPS in Image Priority and 10FPS in Speed Priority. There is also a flash burst mode if you need the flash but it is slower.
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Old Mar 1, 2011, 8:06 PM   #4
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Welcome to the forum! Are you asking how to get into burst mode, or taking sharp images in burst mode?

The burst mode only takes 3 shots per second in high image quality, and 5 shots per second in low quality. This may not be fast enough to shoot someone throwing a baseball.

If you are taking single shots at a time, then you may want to try the outdoor sports setting. Otherwise Shutter priority (as you said you already tried unsuccessfully....) and pick a pretty fast speed (1/250 or faster). What kind of light condition will you be shooting in, daytime or night games?
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Old Mar 1, 2011, 8:41 PM   #5
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Default Thanks for the fast responses!

Wow! That was fast!

Thanks for the helpful responses. We were experimenting with this last night. I now understand that the low light conditions and failure to adjust ISO are the main culprits. I will take the information that you folks have kindly provided and try this in broad daylight.

Much obliged!
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Old Mar 2, 2011, 8:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phototakerwannabe View Post
Wow! That was fast!

Thanks for the helpful responses. We were experimenting with this last night. I now understand that the low light conditions and failure to adjust ISO are the main culprits. I will take the information that you folks have kindly provided and try this in broad daylight.

Much obliged!
Keep in mind also that anything over ISO 400, you will start to see lots of noise. At 800, it's pretty bad.
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Old Mar 2, 2011, 3:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saly View Post
Keep in mind also that anything over ISO 400, you will start to see lots of noise. At 800, it's pretty bad.
Is it realistic to think that the FZ35 will be fast enough to capture a pitching sequence?
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Old Mar 2, 2011, 3:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phototakerwannabe View Post
Is it realistic to think that the FZ35 will be fast enough to capture a pitching sequence?
Sequence? I'm not sure, but kinds of doubt it. How long does it take a person to pitch? My guess would be a fraction of a second. So, even at low res you only get 5 shots per second. Maybe try video, capture "frames"? The camera has HD so should look pretty good.

But you can definitely do single shots of someone pitching.
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Old Mar 2, 2011, 4:49 PM   #9
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In night and burst i think it will not work good no matter what you do, only if it is day and sunny you have a good chance to take some nice photos in burst then change the MP depending on how fast you want like the people said.
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Old Mar 2, 2011, 5:52 PM   #10
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Ok. Thank you for the help.
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