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Old Oct 25, 2004, 1:02 AM   #31
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Anytime you take a picture that contains mostly green, you need to underexpose the picture a little from what the meter says. Any camera, running on auto exposure, will average out the picture's bright and dark areas for a neutral exposure. In this case, green predominates, so the camera exposes the green as average brightness, which will overexpose the picture. Green needs to be darker than average to look right. Anyone who has studied the zone system (Ansel Adams) or has used a spotmeter (part of the zone system) knows that green foliage on a scale of 1 to 9 needs to be at 4 for proper exposure, 5 being average. The camera, on automatic exposure, is setting green at 5 when grass predominates. Try bracketing, a nice feature on the FZ20 that's easy to use.

If you don't like the tint of green, it may be the white balance. The camera averages all the colors it sees to white. If it sees mostly green, it will try to compensate and the colors will look bad. The easy way to adjust this is use the sun setting for sunny days, cloud setting for cloudy days, etc. The slightly harder, but more accurate, way is to use manual white balance with a gray card or something white.
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Old Oct 25, 2004, 4:36 AM   #32
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This makes sense, thank you for explaining!

JimBailey wrote:
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Anytime you take a picture that contains mostly green, you need to underexpose the picture a little from what the meter says. Any camera, running on auto exposure, will average out the picture's bright and dark areas for a neutral exposure. In this case, green predominates, so the camera exposes the green as average brightness, which will overexpose the picture. Green needs to be darker than average to look right. Anyone who has studied the zone system (Ansel Adams) or has used a spotmeter (part of the zone system) knows that green foliage on a scale of 1 to 9 needs to be at 4 for proper exposure, 5 being average. The camera, on automatic exposure, is setting green at 5 when grass predominates. Try bracketing, a nice feature on the FZ20 that's easy to use.

If you don't like the tint of green, it may be the white balance. The camera averages all the colors it sees to white. If it sees mostly green, it will try to compensate and the colors will look bad. The easy way to adjust this is use the sun setting for sunny days, cloud setting for cloudy days, etc. The slightly harder, but more accurate, way is to use manual white balance with a gray card or something white.
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Old Oct 25, 2004, 5:49 AM   #33
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One point that I didn't bring upabout the first picture I posted. Take a look at the animals on the top of the hill. I don't know exactly how to describe it, butthey seem to be pasted into the image afterwards.

Several people already toldme this effect is caused by the FZ20's noise reduction system.
Setting noise reduction to 'low' should solve this issue.
I hope this is helpful to others whoexperiencethe same issue.

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Old Oct 7, 2006, 7:28 PM   #34
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Just recently my FZ20 started displaying the "green grass" problem. I'd used it for 18 months without any issues whatsoever. I don't know if this is true for any of you but I see the discoloration prior to taking a picture through the view finder as well as in the captureddigital image.

Have any of you had any response from Panasonic regarding this problem?




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Old Oct 7, 2006, 8:22 PM   #35
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Cota this thread you resurrected after 2 years has nothing to do with your problem.

If you have a discoloration on the LCD and on the images as out of the SD of your FZ20, something must be broken in your cam Venus II engine or CCD layer.

FZ20 has problems in reproducing the EXACT color hues in certain (most) conditions.
Apart from a slight saturation of all tones, some colors are way off their proper hue, which cannot be fixzed in PP with a simple slight desaturation.
Red is often too purplish/bluish, too few yellow in it
Blue too cyan
Green too dark yellow
Yellow is generally accurate....
FZ5 is way better as far as colors exact reproduction (even better than FZ 30 and 50).

With FZ20 is also hard to get the proper WB manually (some times I have manage to obtain nearly perfect WB and was forced to keep it for weeks, for it only has 1 saveable WB).

... ... ..

After 2 years my FZ20 has the following problems:
1) rubber back/right (for the right hand thumb) comes off, so I put black tape on it to prevent dust come through it on the Mboard.

2) dust particles in the inner lenses. Few days ago I had to hit a lot my FZ20 to make a big particle fall down from the centre of the 2nd-3rd inner lens down elsewhere (It was very visible in the sky pics as a big dark spot)

3) circular pad turns around on itself. It will never fell, but ir's annoying, because any pushwon't have effect on the menu until the pad is properly turned and set back to its position, which is hard to do in the dark or when I must be quick to set some adjustment in the manus.

Also consider that I took more than 40.000 pic in 2 years with my FZ20, and it has gone out 40-50 sundays each year on trekking, in very hard places...

Narmer
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