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Old Oct 25, 2004, 11:08 AM   #21
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There's lots to love. Especially, price/performance. This camera will likely be overlooked by buyers, which is a shame. I still say it's the first and the best of the line, taking cost into consideration. Worth taking a look at if you're in the market.
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Old Oct 25, 2004, 11:57 AM   #22
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Hey Nick, If you start to get e-mail from Panasonic lookout. ShakeyHands tried to discredit the FZ20 and I heard bad things happened to him. Bobc reported something had happened to him involving a camera and a picture of a internal organ RUN NICK, RUN!!!.:G






Note. For those of you who don't get it. I am just kidding with Nick.
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Old Oct 25, 2004, 12:29 PM   #23
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I heard they send NINJA's to do unspeakable things to the person. And they bring a spare tele-photo adapter with them to get to those hard to reach area's. If ya know what I mean.:shock:
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Old Oct 25, 2004, 11:36 PM   #24
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oldud wrote:
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Ref the FZ1 -> FZ2 upgrade, check out:

http://www.ishots.net/fz1-2faq/fz1upgrade.htm

Austin

Hi Austin,

Thanks for the reply. I have to admit that I'm not very computer literate, and I don't quite understand the process. I know how to download stuff into the computer, but I'm wondering how does the info get into the SD card. Is the USB cable from camera to computer something that allows two-way communication?

thanks,

PhilR.
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Old Oct 25, 2004, 11:59 PM   #25
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NickTrop wrote:
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There's lots to love. Especially, price/performance. This camera will likely be overlooked by buyers, which is a shame. I still say it's the first and the best of the line, taking cost into consideration. Worth taking a look at if you're in the market.

Hi NickTrop,

I became interested in the FZ1 after reading an editorial about it, and now after reading your postings here I am even more interested. I am wondering however just how important is the firmware upgrade that you mentioned. Care to elaborate?

thanks,

Phil R.
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Old Oct 26, 2004, 12:29 AM   #26
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Hi,

I shoot mostly handheld shots of birds. As birds are hard to get close to, I frequently have to crop heavily, which equates to the more pixels the better. Image stabilization is also a big deal for handheld shots. I use the FZ20 (previously, FZ10) with a Yoshida adapter and Olympus TCON-17 lens (previously B-300). Prior to this setup, I had the Olympus IS camera (2030?).

I achieve amazing results with the FZ20, combined with the TCON-17 (20X handheld zoom!). Admittedly, I cannot compete qualitatively with the $3000 plus digital SLRs with their big (HEAVY) expensive IS zoom lenses, but I get some excellent shots of almost impossible to photograph subjects (birds). If you don't believe me, please visit my nature website at bailey.aros.net/nature. Most of the bird photos on this site (well over 100 species) have been taken since May 2004 with either the FZ10 or FZ20 with teleconverter. Some are crappy, but most are quite respectable.

This camera is extremely popular with bird photographers. It's light weight (compared with digital SLRs) is a major plus. I can see how it might suck for taking routine uncropped photos with no heavy demands on image stabilization, fast lens, etc. However, I am very happy with the camera's performance for routine shots as well. Knowing what I know about the camera's performance, I would pay twice as much to get this kind of performance. IMO it's way underpriced for its features.


I can usually deal with digital artifacts by postprocessing with PS. no big deal.

I truly love this camera!

BTW this has been a very informative thread. I always wondered how they managed to keep the f/stop at F2.8 throughout the zoom range,a truephotographic miracle.

Jim

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Old Oct 26, 2004, 12:39 AM   #27
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Hi PhilR

The firmware upgrades the camera essentially to an FZ-2, which Pana sold in Japan and Europe but not in the US. It gives you aperture and shutter priority control modes. In aperture priority, you manually set the aperture and it selects the appropriate shutter speed. In shutter speed priority mode, you select the shutter speed, and it calculates the correct aperture. It also boosts resolution of the image by about 20%. So, it give you some manual control and a gain in resolution. If you dont care about the manual control, the FZ-1 is just fine in and of itself as a top-notch point and shoot all by itself with plenty of pre-set modes for different situations. The resolution gains are subtle - if perceptable at all.

Here is a link you should read first, very informative:
http://www.seedwiki.com/page.cfm?doc...ix&wikiid=4025

And another:
http://www.ishots.net/fz1-2faq/fz1upgrade.htm

And another:
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv...per/030807.htm

Everyone is anxious before they upgrade. It's simple. I know of no one who hosed their camera. Basically, when you attach the camera via its USB connection, you will see the SD media card as a drive. Let's say your PC has an A (floppy disk), C (hard drive), D (CD-Rom drive)... You will see the SD card as an "E" drive while it's in the camera connected to your PC through the USB port with a provided cable that comes with the camera. You treat the SD card like any other drive on your computer. You can drag files over to it from your C drive (hard drive) to copy them to the SD card. You can copy, or cut and paste files FROM you SD card to your C drive. It acts exactly like any other drive on your PC. Note - the drive letter might not be "E" on your PC. Windows will assign it the next available drive letter, so that will vary depending on your set-up. So, if you don't have a CD-Rom drive; Windows will assign your SD card "D" as a drive letter. So, you download the upgrade file onto your PC, then format your SD card (do this before hand, instructions are in the manual. Again, very easy.), copy the upgrade file from your hard drive to the SD card, just like you were saving it to a floppy. When you're finished with this you should "see" three things on your SD card: 1. a "Pana 100" folder, 2. a "Misc" folder, and 3. The "firmware.bin" file.

From there follow the instructions on the link provided. The whole process literally takes a couple minutes. Once complete, and your camera is upgraded, delete the firmware file from your SD card.

Nick


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Old Oct 26, 2004, 9:31 AM   #28
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Hello again NickTrop,

Thanks a bunch for the detailed explanation. I didn't know that the camera's USB cable was capable of 2-way communication.

The main reason why I was hesitant on buying an FZ1 was the lack of manual control (learned from my 35mm days), and was therefore considering the FZ3 or 15. I guess I will have to give the 1 serious consideration.

regards,

PhilR.
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Old Oct 27, 2004, 11:21 PM   #29
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Hey Nick

If I use my fz10 on the 2mp setting, I will get rid of some noise? Will the pictures look like my fz1?

I owned a fz1, but it got stolen. Withsuch alow price I am considering buying another one, but I want to use my TCON 14 and WCON on it; do you know of any adapters that I could use with the fz1?

Thanks
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Old Oct 27, 2004, 11:45 PM   #30
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Juanilla -

In theory lowering the MP rating should reduce some noise, but it would be subtle, less than using a lower ISO rating.
The noise produced by too many pixels is different - grainier and somewhat less noticeable (IMO) than noise caused by low light/high ISO. Too many pixel noise is caused by electronic interference from adjacent pixels. I'm not sure if lowering the image resolution from 4 to 2 is done by using all the pixels (capture with 4 MP) but discarding them in processing, which would not effect noise, or if it's done by "turning off" 1/2 the pixels in the sensor, which would reduce noise. Interesting question.

I don't own an FZ-10, how many millimeters is the thread? The FZ-1 is 55mm. There are a variety of step-up/step-down adapters out there. Let me know, and I'll see if I can find out.

Nick
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