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Old Dec 25, 2005, 12:53 PM   #11
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No technical comments.....just that #1 and 3 are killer photos

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Old Dec 25, 2005, 2:26 PM   #12
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Thanks Hiroshi! Have admired so much of your work on here, together with a few others... hopefully I will be getting better at the manual side of things to really make the most of this cam!

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Old Dec 25, 2005, 10:11 PM   #13
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jaseyboy wrote:
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I find that I struggle to focus anything manually, at any working distance.

With autofocus I can't go past 9x zoom if I want to focus.
And with manual focus, whatever distance and whatever subject at whatever light, just won't focus in the display (I don't use the EVF ever ... would that be easier?)
I was referring EVF as the LCD behind...sorry if it was misunderstood.

Base on what you describe above, I am not too sure what is the reason. Perhaps those with FZ30 can share their view on this issue if they face the same problem.

Sorry not able to help on this.
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Old Dec 26, 2005, 1:02 AM   #14
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part of the problem could be the very shallow depth of field provided by the 250D (or any macro lens of this type). it doesn't take much movement of the camera to throw the focal point off completely, and especially using the LCD, it's harder to keep the camera completely still. the FZ30 has a wonderfully sharp and bright EVF... you might try using that. i use the EVF exclusively for composing and framing handheld shots with my FZ20, and only use the LCD for reviewing or shooting from a tripod.

a couple of things to remember when comparing your shots to Tchuanye's marvelous macros... even though at 4 diopterit's a fairly strong lens, the 250D alone will not get you nearly as "close" to your subject as the combination of lenses Tchuanye uses (if i remember right, he uses a Nikon 6T (3 diopter) in combination with a Sigma close-up lens, and sometimes even another lens on top of that!)so the detail will not be as clear, especially something as small as the facets of an insect's eyes. second, lighting matters a great deal, and Tchuanye has mastered the use of bounce flash to illuminate, but not overpower, his subjects, which helps tremendously with enhancing contrast and clarity.

as for not being able to focus above 9x, i'm not sure what is causing that. you should be able to use the full 12x, and with a4 diopter lens like the 250D, you should have a working distance of about9-10 inches, give or take a little. if you're too close, or too far away, that will make focusing more difficult if not impossible, and this type of lens is very unforgiving if you aren't within it's working range. i have a Nikon 6T for my FZ20, and i find that even half an inch either way can make it impossible to get a good focus at full zoom.

by way of example, i'm posting someinsect macroshots of my own. you can see thatunless you get very close,it's almost impossible to get much detail in the eyes. partly this is due to the very small facets, and partly to the fact that a singleclose-up lens likethe Nikon 6Tor 250D by itselfwill not allow focusing close enough to bring out indivudual facets the way Tchuanye's combination of lenses does.

in this first one, you can see some of the color variations in the eyes, but the facets are simply too tiny to be visible.



in this one, you can clearly see the bands of color in the eyes, but again, no facets are visible...

these were not taken at full 12x zoom, because i wanted to include more than just the insect's eyes.

this bee, however, was shot at full zoom, and even at 12x, the eyes appear as just relatively smooth, featureless blobs...



the point of all this is that you can get some very nice close-up shots with just a single add-on lens, but to get really close, to bring out the detail you see in Tchuanye's incredible shots - which frankly belong in one of those large-format coffee-table photo books! - you do need to use more than just a 250D or Nikon 6T. your shots are just fine, for the lens you're using. experiment with working distances, and remember thatyour lens offers a very shallow DOF and it's hard, if not impossible, to get a good focus, especially at full zoom, if you're even half an inch off on your working distance. good luck, and keep us posted, if you'l pardon the pun! :G
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Old Dec 26, 2005, 5:27 AM   #15
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hi squirrel!

i'm completely overwhelmed - by your sensational photos and your kind (and detailed!) explanation of dof related to the close-up lens. i've been playing a bit outside and you're spot on! it just takes getting the distance and focus juuuust right - and the EVF seems to make it all much easier too. going to be printing this page out to apply everything you and the guys above have suggested --- and rest assured, more pics coming soon

jason

p.s. tchu: what equipment DO you use to take your famous flies and spiders?
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Old Dec 26, 2005, 6:48 AM   #16
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Nice images Squirl033!

jaseyboy, you can call me CY.

My equipment is baically
FZ10
Phayee adpater (62mm thread)
1x Nikon 6T (+2.9) (62mm thread)
1 x Sigma Close up filter (+1.6) (58mm thread)
62-58mm step down ring
1 x FL28 Panasonic flash (nothing special abt pana flash except I got it 2nd hand cheap)
1 x homemade bounce card

Here is a pic of my standard macro setup


The combine dioptre of the 2 stacked is +4.5

Here is a close up of the above set up:
The kenko UV filter i just to protect the lens and is always on.


Occasionally, I use a reverse 50mm F1.7 Minolta lens
I would need a reverse coupler and a 62-49mm step up lens.
The reverse set up gives about >+20 dioptre and DOF is VERY VERY shallow.
I use it alone without any close up filters.
Here is a view of it:


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Old Dec 26, 2005, 9:18 AM   #17
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hey Cy ... what a fantastic all-in-one shopping list you've give me I'm going to check out stacking another lens and a more reliable flash. and, of course, do a whole lot more practising to get my eye and shots juuussst right!
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