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Old Mar 14, 2011, 7:27 PM   #11
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Wow, great bugs LTZ. Love the butterfly's eyes.
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Old Mar 15, 2011, 12:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveLundy View Post
Having more distance ...
I was considering the 45mm until I saw what LTZ could do with a $60 close up lens.

If the 45mm was faster I would consider it as it could do double duty for portraits.

While the 45mm is fantastic for macros I'm not into the uber-macro sci-fi shots like below:



It's just way more macro than I need.

I am missing the 504mm of my old FZ18 so I need to get the 100-300 anyway. Add the close up lens and I am covered for wildlife and the bug world.

I save $700 to use for a future fast portrait lens
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Old Apr 28, 2011, 7:17 AM   #13
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Fantastic pictures LTZ.

Based off of your posts here I invested in the panasonic close lens to go with my new GH2 and 45-200, but I am struggling to get good results

Do you have any tips?:

Camera settings, focusing, lighting conditions, distances etc.

Would be much appreciated.

Last edited by MrBeens; Apr 28, 2011 at 7:29 AM.
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Old May 8, 2011, 2:17 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by MrBeens View Post
Fantastic pictures LTZ.

Based off of your posts here I invested in the panasonic close lens to go with my new GH2 and 45-200, but I am struggling to get good results

Do you have any tips?:

Camera settings, focusing, lighting conditions, distances etc.

Would be much appreciated.
Sorry Mr Beens haven't been on in sometime...first the minimum maximum Focus working distance is 24" (2ft) to 12" (1ft) approximately...set your camera to Mode 2 Stabilization...Use Spot AF that means touching the back screen and reducing the AF Box with the control wheel to it's smallest size...Use Spot Meter...set the Aperture to f/13 to f/16 so you will need decent lighting or something to stabilize with I.E. Monopod or Tripod...Set Maximum ISO to 400...Take your shots in Burst Mode and take plenty of the same subject while using good technique..don't forget to use your zoom to help frame your shot...if the wind is blowing the subject then you will have to be very patient and read the wind gust and catch the slack wind timing to shoot...if it's a moving subject I.E. Bug or Grass Hopper follow patiently until you can get within the working focal distance slowly/patiently without disturbing the subject then shoot lots og shots as quickly as you can obtain focus and crop for composition later ALSO focus on the subjects head if not on an even plane of it's body as the DOF is paper thin...if on plane with a good even sideview of the subjects body then you can get away with focusing on a wing or just behind the head...
Also remember to change the f/number after getting several shots at f/13...shoot the complete range from f/4 to f/22 one step at a time then when you go back through the photos it will help you detemine the best f/number for your taste...

Good Luck, Cole
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Old May 17, 2011, 2:12 AM   #15
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Welcome back LTZ!
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Old May 20, 2011, 4:34 PM   #16
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Thanks for the tips, I'll give them a go next time I am out and about
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Old May 23, 2011, 3:36 AM   #17
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With Hoya +4 and 45-200mm, f/9 is the best on GF2. I can get close to 1:1 (35mm equivalent) and still very sharp up to 120mm except small corners.


Last edited by sdcs; May 23, 2011 at 3:52 AM.
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Old May 25, 2011, 5:51 PM   #18
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This is hijacking a thread. Your example is no where near what was posted by the OP.
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With Hoya +4 and 45-200mm, f/9 is the best on GF2. I can get close to 1:1 (35mm equivalent) and still very sharp up to 120mm except small corners.

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