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Old Jan 4, 2013, 10:34 AM   #11
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Happy New Year to you as well.

Thanks for this detailed post. I don't quite understand what you mean by "using the flash exposure to adjust". If I understand correctly, you set ISO and shutter and let the camera adjust the aperture accordingly (even if it indicates an incorrect exposure)? When you set the ISO to 100 and the speed to 1/125, you need a fair amount of light even if shooring with a very fast lens (f1.7 or faster).
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Old Jan 5, 2013, 2:19 AM   #12
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In manual mode, I set the ISO to 100, the shutter speed 125th/160th, any aperture.

Then I just adjust the flash EV and it works. I completely ignore the meter and histogram and all the flashing red lights.

I always start at f/5.6 for a couple shots, as if it triggers some default. Then f/3.5 or f/16 will get the same EV as what I set.

It's a little guesswork based on the initial flash exposure, but I adjust. It just works simpler and more consistent than anything else I've tried.

It doesn't seem to know what the meter reads. It just does what the flash does.

The only time I change the ISO is when I run out of flash power. I need the shutter speed and I want the aperture, so the flash exposure adjustment makes sense to me.

But I can only control it in the Manual mode. The PAS is erratic. They do something different. I've tried to use them and transfer settings, but it only works to a point. It's just easier to go Manual.

Seriously, I can set the lens to manual focus and turn the camera on to get the infinity focus setting, open the flash, point the camera "anywhere" and get a perfect exposure based on the flash EV. "I" can't even believe.
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Old Jan 5, 2013, 3:14 AM   #13
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I haven't gotten my G3 yet, but I will certainly try it when the camera arrives on Wednesday. I try out the Olympus EPL1 with the Shutter Priority Mode. ISO 400 seems to work well better than ISO 100 or 200 with the built-in flash with shutter speed set to 1/125 or 1/160 sec. I had tried bounced flash before at Manual Mode with with my Canon 430EXII (set to manual 1/2 or full power) at f/5.6-8, ISO 200 or 400 depending on the distance to the subjects and the lighting of the the surrounding with good results. Again, like Les says, a couple initial test shots have to be fired first to find the appropriate F stop and start from there. I have even tried bounced flash with a 30 years old Vivitar 283 Auto Thyristor flash and get satisfactory results. The only drawback with this flash is the color temperature which is a little cold.
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Sony A200, SLT-A58 System with HVL-F42AM Flash.
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Old Jan 5, 2013, 11:38 AM   #14
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I took a few shots with this setup and it seems to work fairly well. I did not have any person to photograph so I don't know how well the skin tone will be rendered with WB set to flash and adjusted as suggested. I had tried with WB set to daylight before and it worked well. I found that flash EV set to +0.3 is enough. Anything beyond that will cause some hot spots where the flash light can reflect. Now, the room I was testing this setting was very small, so in a larger environment I may have to adjust the flash power to +0.7 or even +1.
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Old Jan 8, 2013, 7:07 PM   #15
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WCKSer,

I just got my G3 a couple of days ago and am learning. I too got mine with the 14-42 mm lens kit for $299. I love it so far!
Of course, you all seem way more knowlegeable than I am as this is a step up for me from a point and shoot.

I will look forward to learning more from you and the others here.
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Old Jan 8, 2013, 8:04 PM   #16
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Enjoy your new camera. The G3 is capable once you make some adjustments to its settings.
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Old Jan 9, 2013, 2:07 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnee442 View Post
WCKSer,

I just got my G3 a couple of days ago and am learning. I too got mine with the 14-42 mm lens kit for $299. I love it so far!
Of course, you all seem way more knowlegeable than I am as this is a step up for me from a point and shoot.

I will look forward to learning more from you and the others here.
Barnee,

I am glad you bought the camera. Mine came in this afternoon. I play around with it a little and seem to get the hang of it. I will take it out for a field test tomorrow. So far the camera performs well in low light and is a lot better than my Olympus EPL1. The menu, however, is scattered in 2 different control between the Menu/SET and the QMenu/Fn2. At times, it gets a little confusing when I am trying to change settings. Most the settings commonly used are available on the touch screen which make it easy to maneuver one the basic setup is done. With iA Button pressed, the camera becomes automatic and acts like and P&S camera. This camera may become my vacation camera because it is so light. I like the fact that Panasonic always packs a lens hood and a lens pouch with any lens purchased even it is just a lowly kit lens. You will like camera, this is the best bang for the bucks.
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Canon EOS T3i, 7D and 70D EF 17-40mm f/4L, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6, Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM, 430 EXII Flash.
Sony A200, SLT-A58 System with HVL-F42AM Flash.
Mirrorless APS-C camera: Samsung NX100, Canon EOS-M.
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Old Jan 9, 2013, 2:38 PM   #18
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I have configured the Fn1/2 buttons to my liking. The Fn1 button is recessed and I find it difficult to operate when you have your eye on the EVF, so I've set it to Metering mode. The reason is because usually I have the camera set to Spot so I can move it around and select the best lighting possible for the scene I'm photographing. The Fn2 button is set to EV lock. So, once I'm happy with the light balance of the scene, I lock the exposure. Then I focus, recompose and shoot. I've become pretty used to this process and it does not take me long. However, if I feel I don't have the time to follow this procedure, then I quickly change the metering mode from spot to center-weight using the Fn1 button. If you don't care for this technique, you might want to set the Fn buttons to perform different functions. I also dislike the touch screen because it's too easy to mess things up, particularly the focus point. So, I locked it and use the menu through the EVF. I hardly ever use the LCD, only when I'm shooting objects that are in awkward locations. I feel that shooting through the EVF gives me a lot more stability. It also saves a ton of battery.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 3:27 AM   #19
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Default G3 flash test with Vivitar 283 Thyristor flash

I shot a series of pictures using my daughter's old doll and stuff animals as test subjects since no-one in the house was willing to pose for me. A series of 5 pictures were taken at 14mm, 18mm, 25mm, 35mm and 42mm with aperture f/5.6, shutter speed at 1/100 sec and ISO at 200. Distance from subject is about 7.5 ft. Flash used is an old Vivitar 283 set to the blue dial on the power setting and ASA 200, bounced with flash head 90 degrees up (vertical). Diffuser used is a Universal Lambency diffuser with white dome (a Gary Fong knockoff). The pictures are 45% cropped and no software post processing. The camera mode dial is set to M(manual).
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Canon 5D MKII, EF 24-105mm f/4L, EF 50mm f/1.8, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro, Tamron 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 SP Di VC USD XLD, Sigma DG 150-500mm f/5.-6.3 APO HSM.
Canon EOS T3i, 7D and 70D EF 17-40mm f/4L, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6, Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM, 430 EXII Flash.
Sony A200, SLT-A58 System with HVL-F42AM Flash.
Mirrorless APS-C camera: Samsung NX100, Canon EOS-M.
M4/3 systems: Olympus OM-D-E-M5 and Panasonic DMC-G3.

Last edited by WCKSer; Jan 11, 2013 at 3:50 AM.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 7:05 PM   #20
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Hi, WCKSer,
 
That's the look I would expect. I consider that neutral color and "0" exposure. The doll's face looks natural to me.
 
In any light, indoors or out, it should always look the same if the white balance is set to flash, maintain those settings and use the standard film mode.
 
The environment doesn't seem to affect it at all.
 
I'd rather baseline at the faster shutter speed so I don't have to be concerned about motion or even IS. Then I have no problem with the AF lenses, non-IS, or legacy primes with extension tubes. I never get camera shake or motion blurr using flash with the faster shutter speed.
 
Les
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