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Old Sep 15, 2010, 11:03 AM   #11
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No, the TC does not have AF anything, but I knew that going in. With my 80-210 zoom and f4-5.6, I figured it might have problems with AF, and I would only use it occasionally anyway when I needed the extra reach, not to often, so the MF aspect didn't really both me, specially for the price. It does have (actually more than say my kit lens) knubs on the flats. The arm (on my kit lens only one I tried it on) does close down the iris when manipulated.
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 11:42 AM   #12
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One thing I am looking for is a decent macro lens, and since macro mode is (so I read) better controlled manually, a total manual lens might not be that bad a deal.
A lot of people say that but I also see some great shots from people whose eyes are not what they once were (or never were) who find that AF (with an audible beep and the green light in the viewfinder) is a Godsend.

Personally I do a lot of macro and my 'new' favourite way (and I definitely get more keepers this way) is hand held, & with flash of course, (otherwise, if on a tripod, then AF is definitely not needed) and in full manual UNTIL I see in the split prism that I am almost there, then I flip the switch to AF-C and fire the fraction of a second I see the green light and hear the beep. Waaay more keepers than totally manual and 'rocking' !
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Pentax : 15 Ltd, 77 Ltd, 43/1.9 Ltd, Cosina 55/1.2, DA*300/4, Contax Zeiss Distagon 28/2.8, Raynox 150/250, AFA x1.7, Metz 50 af1.

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Old Sep 23, 2010, 1:48 PM   #13
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My method is to use MF, with the focus point set to spot focus. Even with older manual only lenses, you get the green focus lock indicator, so even if you aren't as young as you used to be, you can still use manual, and choose your focus spot.
I did find that this didn't work with a lens which had the mount painted. the camera has to see a connection, so I removed the paint down to bare metal, and now it works.

brian
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 2:39 PM   #14
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I've found that the beauty of this (new technique for me) ' full manual UNTIL I see in the split prism that I am almost there, then I flip the switch to AF-C ' is that the AF won't hunt (at all), it's already spot on, however the microfocus adjustments keep it sharp when I'm wavering around and what would be in/out/in/out focus with full manual focus. More keepers.

I've got some shots I took today (flies mating & a tiny damselfly). I'll post them later, all were taken using this technique. It certainly helps these decrepit 'ol eyes !
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Nikon : D800, D600, Sigma 500/4.5, Sigma 120-300/2.8, Zeiss Distagon ZF2 - 21/2.8, Zeiss Distagon ZF2 - 35/2.0, Nikkor 85/1.8G, Sigma 50/1.4. Nikon x1.4 TC, Sigma x2.0 TC
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 6:35 PM   #15
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I've found that the beauty of this (new technique for me) ' full manual UNTIL I see in the split prism that I am almost there, then I flip the switch to AF-C ' is that the AF won't hunt (at all), it's already spot on, however the microfocus adjustments keep it sharp when I'm wavering around and what would be in/out/in/out focus with full manual focus. More keepers.

I've got some shots I took today (flies mating & a tiny damselfly). I'll post them later, all were taken using this technique. It certainly helps these decrepit 'ol eyes !
Hi Kevin,

This is the beauty of the AFA with a dedicated macro lens. You have to focus the lens manually to get it within the AFA's focusing range, then the AFA takes over automatically and there's no significantl hunting. At macro distances, the AFA's focusing range is only a few mm, and with the K20 or K-7 the AF C is fast enough to keep up if you're hold is at least reasonably steady. . . I almost double my max magnification (I get about 1.9:1 with the 180) at the at a little closer working distance than the MFD for the lens alone and increase 1:1 working distance by about a factor of 1.5x.

It's also convenient for me not to have to fiddle with the AF switch on the body. Timing the shutter release does take some concentration, and acquiring subjects in the viewfinder is more difficult at MFD with the added magnification.

For me AF makes handheld macro (with a flash, of course) practical. . . and a lot more fun. I get a much higher keeper percentage with AF C so the daunting frustration factor I encountered before is cut significantly. I know that the "conventional wisdom" that AF is useless for macro should really be put to rest, but I doubt if we'll stop hearing it any time soon. There's a lot of inertia in the photographic world.

Scott
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 2:20 AM   #16
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Hi Kevin,

This is the beauty of the AFA with a dedicated macro lens. You have to focus the lens manually to get it within the AFA's focusing range, then the AFA takes over automatically and there's no significantl hunting. At macro distances, the AFA's focusing range is only a few mm, and with the K20 or K-7 the AF C is fast enough to keep up if you're hold is at least reasonably steady. . . I almost double my max magnification (I get about 1.9:1 with the 180) at the at a little closer working distance than the MFD for the lens alone and increase 1:1 working distance by about a factor of 1.5x.

It's also convenient for me not to have to fiddle with the AF switch on the body. Timing the shutter release does take some concentration, and acquiring subjects in the viewfinder is more difficult at MFD with the added magnification.

For me AF makes handheld macro (with a flash, of course) practical. . . and a lot more fun. I get a much higher keeper percentage with AF C so the daunting frustration factor I encountered before is cut significantly. I know that the "conventional wisdom" that AF is useless for macro should really be put to rest, but I doubt if we'll stop hearing it any time soon. There's a lot of inertia in the photographic world.

Scott
I couldn't agree more with your last paragraph Scott - it's right on the money. Everywhere I turn I hear "MF only for macro" however that's patently not true and I do think it obfuscates the skill and techniques required to achieve acceptable macro shots - one of which is a way to use AF. I do find the split prism I inserted helps a lot in this regard, you can see clearly when you're close to obtaining focus.

What you say about the AFA now has me very excited as I hadn't considered it's potential use in macro work - and my father arrives here in Shanghai on Monday with all my recent EBay purchases - one of which is an AFA !
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Old Sep 25, 2010, 12:21 PM   #17
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A lot of people say that but I also see some great shots from people whose eyes are not what they once were (or never were) who find that AF (with an audible beep and the green light in the viewfinder) is a Godsend.
I just learned that very thing today as a matter of fact , and I also learned that the beep might not always happen on your exact subject
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Old Sep 25, 2010, 12:42 PM   #18
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So something else I also learned today, check your ISO before shooting. I had left it in 1600 and didn't give it a second thought with the thrill of trying a new lens
This resulted in some pictures in full light blown out because 4000th of a second (fastest shutter speed I guess) on my K2000 is still too slow. Also some noise in my photos. On the other hand, I didn't seem to have any problem with camera shake since I was shooting freehand

Using a Tameron 135mm F2.5 close focus lens in Av mode, but I was shooting at F 2.5 the whole time. See post on Close Focusing lens for more info.

Here was one of the first ones I took. This green orange is in between golf ball and tennis ball in size.
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Old Sep 25, 2010, 12:44 PM   #19
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Here is another shot (just trying stuff remember) with a 100% crop.
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Old Sep 25, 2010, 1:08 PM   #20
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A lot of people say that but I also see some great shots from people whose eyes are not what they once were (or never were) who find that AF (with an audible beep and the green light in the viewfinder) is a Godsend.

Personally I do a lot of macro and my 'new' favourite way (and I definitely get more keepers this way) is hand held, & with flash of course, (otherwise, if on a tripod, then AF is definitely not needed) and in full manual UNTIL I see in the split prism that I am almost there, then I flip the switch to AF-C and fire the fraction of a second I see the green light and hear the beep. Waaay more keepers than totally manual and 'rocking' !
I'm glad you have found a way to shoot that works, but that seems way to complicated for me I'l stick with the rocking method, I have great success that way, especially now that I have an AF confirm mount for my Tamron glass.

John
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