Go Back   Steve's Digicams Forums > Digital SLR and Interchangeable Lens Cameras > Pentax Lenses

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old Oct 29, 2010, 5:52 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 146
Default Action lenses?

Hi, i am looking into buying my first dsrl, hopefuly a k-r, i plan to take pictures of my kids an the events, sports the participate in? Any suggestions for fast lenses, or any lenses that will meet my needs?
At the events the distance i will be at ranges from 6 ft, some times or 25-65 ft aprox.
Thank you and really appreciate any help
marubex is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old Oct 29, 2010, 6:00 PM   #2
Super Moderator
 
Mark1616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,397
Default

Which sports and under what conditions (indoors, lights at night etc)?
__________________
Any problems with a post or thread please use the report button at the bottom left of the post and the team will help sort it out.

Have fun everyone!


See what I'm up to visit my Plymouth Wedding Photography
site or go to my blog.
Mark1616 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 29, 2010, 6:06 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 146
Default

Hi Mark,
Some would be indoors in a gym setting like school events, dances, usual school stuff and probably some martial arts ( not sur yet) Some outside like tenis more school events ( dances, singing, parades) horse riding.
marubex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 29, 2010, 9:49 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
shoturtle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Frankfurt AM
Posts: 11,348
Default

with the pentax you are looking at the sigma 50-150 HSM 2.8 or the sigma 70-200 HSM 2.8 for zooms.
__________________
Super Frequent Flyer, no joke. Ex Patriot and loving it.
Canon Eos 60D, T1i/500D, Eos1, Eos 630, Olympus EPL-1, and a part time Pentax K-X shooter.
shoturtle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 29, 2010, 10:13 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Frogfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Shanghai, China
Posts: 2,774
Default

These guys can better advise on which lense is best for indoor action shots (as fast as you can get, meaning a constant F2.8, will get you more keepers and allow you more flexibility) but I also do a lot of indoor shooting and if I was you I would also consider getting a tripod, or, if not permitted (as tripods aren't at some events), then a monopod will do a great job of reducing camera shake at the lower speeds you may be shooting at. Monopods are easier to carry around (still attached to your camera) and much quicker to set up a shot.

The Kx is a great camera with excellent high ISO capability for your indoor shots, and it seems the new Kr is a big step up, so it will be a great choice for your intended purpose ... and much more besides !
__________________
http://frogfish.smugmug.com
Pentax : 15 Ltd, 77 Ltd, 43/1.9 Ltd, Cosina 55/1.2, DA*300/4, Contax Zeiss Distagon 28/2.8, Raynox 150/250, AFA x1.7, Metz 50 af1.

Nikon : D800, D600, Sigma 500/4.5, Sigma 120-300/2.8, Zeiss Distagon ZF2 - 21/2.8, Zeiss Distagon ZF2 - 35/2.0, Nikkor 85/1.8G, Sigma 50/1.4. Nikon x1.4 TC, Sigma x2.0 TC
Frogfish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 31, 2010, 3:38 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
snostorm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Chicago Suburb, IL, USA
Posts: 2,770
Default

Hi marubex,

I may be way off base here, but I own a lot of fast lenses, and they are a lot larger, heavier, and considerably more expensive than the "consumer" grade lenses, especially those that you can get bundled with the camera body as "kit lenses" where the lenses are almost inexpensive. The "kit" lenses might seem superfluous considering what you consider your main purpose right now, but they could be very useful to determine what you might ultimately need to get the shots that you want. If you do decide to get something better and or faster, these lenses should be pretty easy to sell since they are heavily discounted in the original bundle, and all you need to do is get close to whatever money that you have in them. . .

The two lens kits, with DA-L 18-55 and either the DA-L 50-200 (or DA-L 55-300) will give you some very competent, compact, and light lenses covering 18mm to 200mm or 300mm respectively. Every person has different access (can you shoot courtside, or only from your designated seats halfway up the bleachers?). I've seen some great work from courtside with a 50mm lens, and have shot minor league hockey from the corner of the rink where 28mm was not quite wide enough and 300mm from the video platform near the top row of a 5,000 seat stadium was not long enough. . .

Having the FL range to experiment with is the only way to really determine what you actually will need in FL range for the events and circumstances that you want to shoot. The kit lenses are a great way to find this. With the high ISO capability of the Kr sensor, you should actually be able to get pretty high quality shots by pushing the ISO sensitivities up to the max and shooting the slower kit lenses. Probably the worst that can happen is that you have to PP the images to get prints over 5x7, and from what I've seen, you might not have to do even this.

The sensitivity levels these new cameras have has changed the paradigm of what lenses are needed to shoot in different situations, IMO. If you decide that the images that you can get with these lenses isn't as good as what you want, you will at least have a good idea of what you really need, and will be able to make an educated decision, based on real life information instead of relying on the experience of others who are just giving you their best guesses based on their own experiences. Lighting in different indoor venues and actual lighting conditions outdoors during different seasons and even latitudes vary too much to base the purchase of expensive fast lenses on even the most experienced shooters, IMO. The best judge of what you will ultimately need is you and your direct experience.

There's a great freeware program that lets you calculate and graph your most used FLs, apertures, ISO, and shutter speeds from the exif information embedded in the digital images that you take. You could take your most successful shots from the different events, copy them into different folders, analyze them with the program, and come up with a profile for the lens(es) that you'd need to make them even better.

http://www.cpr.demon.nl/prog_plotf.html

As I stated, fast glass is expensive. Do you buy a 16 or 17-50 f2.8 for $400-800 only to find that you use 75mm more, and don't shoot at anything less than 30mm for some events? (so maybe a 28-75 would have been a better purchase) Do you buy a 4 lb 100-300 f4 at over $1000 to find that you're physically unable to follow the action at anything more than 200mm? (so maybe a 3lb 70-200 f2.8 would have been better) Or even that you always choose to shoot around 200mm so a 200/2.8 prime at 1.8 lbs would have been much better than the 3+lb 70-200 f2.8.

Personally, my answer is to get all of them to be prepared with at least close to the best lens for any situation, but that's not practical for most. . . and I'm admittedly a little nuts. . .

When you go on vacation, do you really want to carry 6 lbs and $2000 worth of lenses instead of under 2 lbs worth more like $300, and have to carry a bag instead of stuffing a couple of lenses in your pockets? Do you really want to have to constantly worry about protecting your $1000 lens when you'll be shooting in bright daylight at f8 anyway -- and your $100 kit lens will do just fine under these conditions. . .

I don't mean to make this more difficult for you, but there are a lot of practical considerations that have to be made, and nobody said it would be easy. I've got quite a few thousands of $$ in specialty premium lenses, but I don't hesitate to grab my $100 DA 18-55 and $200 DA 50-200, or maybe just the $325 DA 18-250 alone, and I'm glad to have them on many occasions.

When I get my K-5 in the near future, I'm planning on using these lenses a lot indoors at very high ISO. It's going to be a whole new world in available light photography as far as I'm concerned. . .being able to use ISO 1600-25600 on a relatively regular basis makes a big difference in possible lens choice compared to being limited to 1600-3200 in an emergency.

Scott

Last edited by snostorm; Oct 31, 2010 at 9:59 AM.
snostorm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 31, 2010, 4:27 AM   #7
Super Moderator
 
Mark1616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,397
Default

Scott raises some interesting points, as yes high ISO's are helping get faster usable shutter speeds but what high ISO's don't help with at all is the ability to auto focus so unfortunately that will get in the way of some of the argument. Also, the sharpness of kit lenses when wide open (which is where you have to have the aperture to stand a chance of getting the shot even at high ISO) is generally not as good as a faster/brighter lens so you've again put a stumbling block in the way of getting a shot.

I agree you don't want to be spending more than needed on glass, so working out the ranges of what you need will really help.

Regarding the maximum distances you want to shoot with a particular focal length (this is the actual focal length of the lens not the 35mm equivalent), have a look at this link that was put together a while ago. http://forums.steves-digicams.com/sp...distances.html If you try to shoot outside of these ranges then you will find results get softer and softer.
__________________
Any problems with a post or thread please use the report button at the bottom left of the post and the team will help sort it out.

Have fun everyone!


See what I'm up to visit my Plymouth Wedding Photography
site or go to my blog.
Mark1616 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Oct 31, 2010, 10:50 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
snostorm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Chicago Suburb, IL, USA
Posts: 2,770
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark1616 View Post
Scott raises some interesting points, as yes high ISO's are helping get faster usable shutter speeds but what high ISO's don't help with at all is the ability to auto focus so unfortunately that will get in the way of some of the argument. Also, the sharpness of kit lenses when wide open (which is where you have to have the aperture to stand a chance of getting the shot even at high ISO) is generally not as good as a faster/brighter lens so you've again put a stumbling block in the way of getting a shot.

I agree you don't want to be spending more than needed on glass, so working out the ranges of what you need will really help.

Regarding the maximum distances you want to shoot with a particular focal length (this is the actual focal length of the lens not the 35mm equivalent), have a look at this link that was put together a while ago. http://forums.steves-digicams.com/sp...distances.html If you try to shoot outside of these ranges then you will find results get softer and softer.
Hi Mark,

Excellent points.

I was making a case for experimenting with the lowest cost option first and taking advantage of the deal on these lenses in the bundle, not arguing against fast glass. My omission of this is somewhat ironic. Many discussions concerning the advantages of faster glass at shorter FLs seem to center on DOF control and disregard the greater AF capability with a lens that gathers more light, and then I'm usually the one to mention this, so I do think it's important. I have been reading the first user reports on the new Pentax models, and most feel that the larger lenses on the new AF sensor make them more responsive to lower light levels, so I am assuming that slower lenses will be less of a handicap in this regard than with previous bodies.

I feel that the kit lenses are a great starting point, and experience with them will make a lot of decisions about the purchase of more specialized glass clearer. Also, they aren't just throwaway lenses that can be discarded when you get a premium lens in the same FL range. . .

Scott
snostorm is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:19 AM.