Remote control

[dwssas]

I have mounted a $6.00 bicycle mirror onto the tri-pod so that one can shoot remotely from behind the cam. My remote cost $4.97 from deals galore. It is small, cheap and works perfectlly from 20 feet for sure and more. Not pretty but very effective and for $11.00? Just sharing with those who have not yet figured this out, like myself.

[snostorm]

Hi dwssas,

Good idea in comcept, but I like small and portable -- I used to carry a square of tin foil in my bag to use as a reflector. Add a rubber band, and you can bend it around and make a very compact and light reflector for the IR remote -- might not be quite as reflective, but it would work.

Scott

[ishino]

humm... i have never had a problem using my remote from behind the camera both on my istdl or my k10d.

[Tachikoma]

I was under the impression it had a remote sensor on the back as well, they are hidden in the lights that flash during the shutter delay.

[rhermans]

dwssas, love the idea,

haven't got that problem with my k10d and for the time the IR remote is not reaching the camera I've got a radio controlled one. (up to 100m - not that I would put my camera at such a reach)

the shot without you explanation would have been just fun, the newest add on for Pentax :lol:

Ronny

[Monza76]

That's using your head, great idea.

Ira

[Wingman]

I've been frustrated by the inability of the wireless remote to work from behind the camera. This is a award winning practical solution...way to go! It would be nice if the sensor was in the back rather than the front. Most times when I am taking a picture that includes myself, I use the self timer. I cannot see when I would actually be standing in front of the camera and using the remote:?

Jay

[Billy M]

I've had similar problems with IR remotes not working from behind my DS, so I poked around online a bit and found out just how easy it is to build a wired remotesimilar tothe $35 factory-made Pentax CS-205 wired remote. I made one today out of some stuff I had just laying around. Basically just some wire from an old set of headphones with the 1/8" 3-conductor stereo jack still attached, two momentary push-button switches, and a small plastic box to house the switches. Any plastic container large enough to house the switches will do (old film canister, tic-tac box, etc. I used the plastic housing from a small dollar store flashlight). You can get the switches from Radio Shack or similar, and while you're there also pick up an adapter to go from the 1/8"stereo plug on the headphone cord to the 2.5mm stereo (SAME AS 3/32") jack in the camera body. If you can find a cord with the 2.5mm (3/32") stereo plug already attached, you can skip the adapter...

For mine, I used a red switch for the shutter, and a black one for the autofocus. Check the cord with an ohmmeter to find out which wires go to which terminals on the stereo plug, and wire the switches accordingly. On the 1/8" (or 3/32" if your cord is so equipped) stereo plug, the shank (longest conductor) is the common conductor, the ring (middle conductor) is for the AF, and the tip is for the shutter. My red switch connects the wires from the tip and the shank, and the black switch connects the wires from themiddle ring terminal to the shank. Inside the switch housing, one terminal from each switch is touching together, and the common wireis solderedto these joined terminals.

It's very easy to build. Below I'veposted a picture of it (inside and out) so that you can see just how easy it is. I think I have about $4 wrapped up into my wired remote, counting the switches and the cheap flashlight I used for the switch housing.

I might decide to add a slide switch later if I decide to venture into trying some photos with the bulb setting on the camera... I should add here thereason forusing two switches where theOEM Pentax remote uses only one is that the Pentax uses a two position switch just like the shutter button on the camera, and those switches aren't common like the momentary push button switches I used.

If you wish to have omly the shutter button and leave outthe autofocus button, you can omit one switch and use a cord with a 3/32" 2-conductor mono plug on the end instead of the 3-conductor stereo plug.


If anyone needs more details or clarification, just ask. I'll be glad to answer questions!

Billy