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Old Dec 21, 2006, 4:16 PM   #11
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It is hard to decide what to do with indoor lighting since there are so many kinds of light out there, which is why I shoot in RAW so I can change it later. That way I don't have to mess around trying to figure out each set up and can get on with taking photos.

Tom
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Old Dec 21, 2006, 4:17 PM   #12
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I am using M about 80% of the time now. The auto modes were not working for me exposure wise on the *ist DL. I would like to have used P with program shift and EC, but no such feature. With manual I am able remember basic starting settings for different scenes, check the meter and adjust.
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Old Dec 21, 2006, 4:21 PM   #13
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There's awhite balance trick I like for indoor shots undertungsten light. The AWB doesn't correct enough, so it ends up way too orange, and the preset tungsten WB is too "correct" and cool-white for my taste...so I do a manual white balance using a pale blue item (I have a specific t-shirt I like), which restores just enough of the amber warm look.

Of course, if I shot RAW, I could do the same thing with a temperature slider in PP...

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Old Dec 21, 2006, 4:37 PM   #14
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Could you post a swatch from photoshop of the pale blue you described. I would like to try that this weekend.
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Old Dec 21, 2006, 5:21 PM   #15
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Yeah, I really haven't had the time to play with the camera, and learn/play withall the features like I want to. Last weekend got the camera, I was stuck at work. By the time I'm home, it's dark outside. So that just leaves me with stuff to shoot around at home. But with the holidays, that's been had to do as well. Plus I would drive my girlfriend crazy if I played with the camera 24/7. And now my mom is in town this weekend.

So I'm hoping next weekend to get up bright and early and get some shots and work andlearnthe camerasome more.

I started out with auto settings when I first got my camera, that didn't last more than 2 minutes. Now I've mostly been playing with Tv and AV, with different lighting. Today here at work I messed around with M mode. Not really trying to get to many creative shots right now, just trying to get the shutter speed/aperture timing down. So now I've been trying P mode and learning the settings that puts out, then trying them out in the other modes.

As far as WB goes, I usally leave it on AWB, bump up the iso or use the flash if I have to. And Usually use Tungsten, and I messed with Florescent a few times.

But big thanks to all that responded to this thread.



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Old Dec 21, 2006, 5:55 PM   #16
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One other thing that you might want to play with is the metering mode. Especially outside where you have a high dynamic range it can make a huge difference depending on whether you are using spot metering or matrix metering. I found that it helps to try a couple of different shots using the different modes - sometimes (like often) the matrix mode will expose for the shadows when I don't mind them going to black (like if I'm trying to capture one flower in the sun and want the shadows to be dark. Sometimes the bright flower will be blown out and the shadows exposed properly). Othertimes, the spot metering will underexpose everythingif you expose to the brightest spot of an almost white flower. That is one of the features of the K10 that I LOVE - having the ability to change the metering mode on a dial, rather than having to go into the menu.
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Old Dec 21, 2006, 6:53 PM   #17
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I use M mode 99.9% of the time, and B mode occasionally. I just have M lenses though, so Av only lets me use the lens wide open, and I'd rather be able to stop down if I so pleased.
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Old Dec 21, 2006, 7:19 PM   #18
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Av mode almost all the time.

Auto ISO unless I want something specific.

AWB outdoor, manual WB indoor.
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Old Dec 21, 2006, 9:19 PM   #19
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To jabilson007,

I played with my technique some more tonight, and found I didn't like the t-shirt approach (too variable), and just happened to come across a guitar effects pedal that's a good color. In the attached photo, you see it, and a Kodak 90% white card, under tungsten light shot with my DS2. Top is with Tungsten WB, bottom is with AWB, and middle is with manual WB using the blue pedal itself (obviously I had to get very close to make the blue side of it fill the frame).

I don't have a swatch, really, but when I corrected the white card to true white, the blue shade measured at about 130 red, 180 green, and 216 blue. You can probably generate your own shade of blue to get what you want.

Hope that helps. You can also buy something called a WarmCard, that does the same thing.

Dan
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Old Dec 21, 2006, 9:39 PM   #20
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Well I was hoping to mess around a little more tonight. But I was recharging my batteries at work and left the batteries and charger there.

Also great to get new advice, tips, etc. etc. :|
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