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Old Mar 27, 2007, 12:31 PM   #11
TDN
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the SR will definitly be a plus...especially in those "extreme" situations. Also, you'll less likely be banging yourself on the head when that one perfectly composed shot ends up to have camera shake when you look at it on the computer, a problem I've had a lot with my DL
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Old Mar 29, 2007, 5:44 PM   #12
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Well, I think my luck has come true.

This weekend, if I have enough time, I'm gonna buy the K100D with the two kitlenses, as an upgrade from my FZ30, which I'm gonna sell.

I asked several months ago what to buy after the FZ30 and basicly any entry DSLR would do, and several suggested the K100D.One thing I would like to know:

Will the two kitlenses be a dissapointment or a pleasant suprise, compared with the FZ30 leica lens?

Rudo
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Old Mar 29, 2007, 6:37 PM   #13
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The 55-200 lens, at 300mm equivalent on the far end, will not have the reach of the 450mm equivalent the FZ30 is capable of. You'd need to go for something that goes up to 300mm for that. I'd personally prefer a 70-300mm lens, though I'm not sure what the price difference is. I seriously doubt I'd miss the 56-69mm range.

It seems the K100d is a natural choice for people wanting to move up from the FZ30. I did it as well. Just how big a difference you see depends on your priorities. There are a number of things I found disappointing at first when I got the camera.

First off, I assumed that because the DSLR had a large sensor and started at ISO 200, it would be significantly brighter than the FZ30. In practise though, I get roughly the same shutter speeds on P mode at ISO 200 that I do on the FZ30 at ISO 100. The K100d though looks better at ISO 800 than the FZ30 does at 100, so that definitely an advantage.

I was quite disappointed by the indoor white balance. I got so used to the FZ30 being so close to perfect in that department, than spending more for a camera that doesn't do it nearly as well was a bit of a shock. With auto white balance, you'll find a lot of indoor shots come out quite orange. This can be fixed by using tungsten white balance or setting the WB manually, or shooting RAW and fixing it later, but it's still a weakness.

You might also miss the LCD for a while. Since you don't get the accurate live preview of the FZ30, you'll have to get used to predicting what your results will come out like.

The FZ30 can shoot continuously much longer than the K100d can in JPG mode.

Probably my biggest disappointment was that the K100d doesn't seem to have nearly as good an anti-shake system as the FZ30. On the FZ30, I could use the full zoom range at 1/13 and get very reliably sharp images. On the K100d it seems more random, where I've gotten slower than that at very high focal lengths, I've also gotten camera shake at speeds like 1/60 that would not have happened with the FZ30 (though I wonder if using old, manual lenses has something to do with it).

So, prepare for some disappointment when you first start playing with the camera. If you're anything like me, you'll notice what's worse before you notice what's better. Here's where it gets better:

If you like taking indoor shots and don't mind manually focusing, you can get a 50mm f/1.7 relatively cheap that will let you take incredible photos in very low light. I use one to shoot a cemetery at night (unfortunately it's been overcast, and the good exposures look like they were taken during the day). In fact, if you enjoy the idea of experimenting with different lenses, there are tons of cheap lenses out there that you can get on ebay or at antique stores and maybe even garage sales.

Another example is that I have yet to save up enough for a decent auto telephoto, so I've beeen using a manual 135mm f/2.5 combined with a 2x teleconveter. Together these lenses cost me about $45. This gives me slightly less reach than the fz30 at full zoom, but already I've been getting better closeups of birds and deer than I ever got with the FZ30. It really makes me look forward to getting a 70-300mm with nice coated lenses and auto-focus.

The thing I was most impressed with though was the quality of the RAW images compared to what I could get with the FZ30. Particularly the dynamic range. If you're not sure about an exposure, just use ISO 200 and underexpose a bit and you'll still have tons to play with, assuming you like manipulating images in Photoshop.
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Old Mar 30, 2007, 3:06 AM   #14
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Corpsy,

Thanks for your explanation.

Rudo
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Old Mar 30, 2007, 6:29 AM   #15
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Rudo wrote:
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I allready learned that a monopod only helps at vertical shake and not with horizontal shake.
Rudo
not true if you learn to use it correctly. you do not just take a monopod out and plant it vertically on the ground. the purpose of using a monopod is to use it and your body to make a tripod. placing the monopod directly in front of you in a completely vertical position is NOT how to use a monopod.

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Old Mar 30, 2007, 12:19 PM   #16
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Well that extra $275 is getting you more than SR. It is getting you a camera that is current and still well supported by Pentax. The other camera not so much. I have a real problem with buying something that is all but on its way out. But that is me. You have decide what's important and what's not important. I would however, suggest you buy from some place with a very good return policy and don't decide on money alone. Get what you want in the price range you want. Not just because it is cheapest.

As far as the accessories go, they are a dime a dozen so I wouldn't choose based on that either as most of those accessories are probably going to be no-name asian knock offs, not a great thing in my opinion either.

Robert
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Old Mar 30, 2007, 2:05 PM   #17
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i've had VERY good experiences with the asian knock offs. i'm looking at a monopod,tripod,3 heads right now and would get another set in a heartbeat. all for under 100usd.

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Old Mar 31, 2007, 11:22 AM   #18
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robar wrote:
Quote:
Rudo wrote:
Quote:
I allready learned that a monopod only helps at vertical shake and not with horizontal shake.
Rudo
not true if you learn to use it correctly. you do not just take a monopod out and plant it vertically on the ground. the purpose of using a monopod is to use it and your body to make a tripod. placing the monopod directly in front of you in a completely vertical position is NOT how to use a monopod.

roy
Still wouldn't consider one an alternastive to a real tripod or good IS/SR.

They DO make nicewalking stick tough if you are out on a hilly nature shoot though.
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Old Mar 31, 2007, 3:10 PM   #19
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I think you will find that if you practise, a monopod can replace the shake reduction and allow slower shutter speeds. But you do have to practise, and remember to take it with you!


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Old Mar 31, 2007, 5:35 PM   #20
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i've got two. one stays in the car 100% of the time. the pound the ball head weighs make a good club also.
i don't think i ever compared it to a tripod or SR. it has a purpose and that's what i use it for.

roy
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