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Old Sep 28, 2007, 4:50 PM   #1
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Dear Pentaxians,

I'mconsidering10-20 & 17-70 Sigma combo for either a k10Dor ak100d body mainly for landscapes, architecture and museum shots. Appreciating the role of rich colourgraduationseven more than sharpnessin terms of IQ,I would like to know if Imight berisking my priorityif I choosethe k100d body for the sake of a bit less noise and a few free meals : )

Btw, if only tamron 17-50 f/2.8 couldbe a choice for pentax...

Thanks in advance!
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Old Sep 28, 2007, 6:18 PM   #2
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If you'll be taking those indoor shots with a tripod I think you'd probably do better with the K10D. Though I haven't seen it demonstrated, I suspect that the K10D at ISO 100 has less noise and more dynamic range than the K100D at ISO 200 (the lowest it can go), not to mention the extra resolution. If someone (Mtngal) could possibly provide a RAW image of the same scene taken at ISO 100 with the K10D and ISO 200 with the K100D then perhaps we could confirm this and satisfy my curiosity.

If you're not using a tripod, the K10D also has noticeably improved image stabilization which may allow you to use a lower ISO than would be necessary on the K100D. I think that since the advantage of the K100D is that it can get cleaner shots at higher ISO, it's better at shooting people, animals and other moving things in lower light conditions since you can use faster shutter speeds. Otherwise I think the K10D is an overall better camera.
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Old Sep 28, 2007, 6:52 PM   #3
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I think the K100D would work well for your intended purposes. The 3200 ISO/SR capabilities would be helpful for the museum. The Sigma 18-50mm 2.8 Macro looks to be equally as good as the Tamron with a better build. I have the 17-70mm and I think it is good but not great.

Jon
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Old Sep 28, 2007, 7:48 PM   #4
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I had the pleasure of using a co-workers K100D for a few hours after i had talked her into buying a Pentax DSLR. I use a K10D as my primary body and a istDL as a backup. Since I had thought about selling my istDL and buying a K100D to use as a backup body, she let me try out her new camera.

Although I don't have any side by side pictures to show you, my observations are as follows:

Picture wise the K100D takes cleaner pictures. 6MP vs 10MP on the same size sensor, it's a given that the K100D comes out on top here. There is no noticible difference between ISO 100-400 compared to ISO 200-400 on the K100D. You can start to see the difference at ISO 800.

I thought the colors initially were a little more vivid on the K10D. When looking at the RAW files, each camera picked a different color temperture in the same situation, so I think that is the reason why. Once I balanced the two color temps it still looked a tad better color wise with the K10D. Who knows though... a firmware upgrade for the K100D could make a difference.

Not that my shake reduction test is as scientific as the riding lawn mower test, I take a picture of the speaker holes on my television testing SR. Much better SR on the K10D. The K100D is pretty good though, and way better than nothing like my istDL.

Lenses seemed to focus faster on the K10D. I didn't time it, it just seemed like it focussed quicker.

I like the Li-Ion batteries in the K10D better than the AA's. I can take a 1,000 pictures on a single charge and don't have to worry about topping off a battery before I head out.

Wireless flash works with the K10D. I believe with the K100D you need two flashes to command the flash, like my istDL. Not sure on that... but I remember that being a big point when the K10D was announced.

So my overall decision was that a K100D was not what I was looking for in a backup camera. Decided to get another K10D when funds allow it.

I think the K10D is hands down a better camera than the K100D, but it's all on what you want. If you want something that works great, get the K100D. If you want something that works even better, get the K10D. You as the photographer is what counts the most!


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Old Sep 28, 2007, 10:58 PM   #5
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I've posted a couple of comparison threads comparing my own K10 and K100 cameras. Here's one that looked at high ISOs (some taken in jpg, some in raw and converted with probably lightroom, but maybe ACR with CS2). There was a firmware upgrade that came out after these pictures that seemed to help the banding issue (some people don't see it, some cameras have it more than others, some see it on certain monitors but not on others. My K10 got better either after a later firmware upgrade, or else I got better at controlling exposure because I don't have as much problem as these pictures show now). http://forums.steves-digicams.com/fo...mp;forum_id=80.

For another thread, this time not concentrating on high ISO. I was actually trying to decide which lens to sell so I was looking at lens sharpness. These were about the first pictures I took with the K10, though, so thought you might find them useful (even though they are very boring pictures, mostly of tire tracks) and taken in jpg http://forums.steves-digicams.com/fo...mp;forum_id=80. The last one of the trees should have shown differences in dynamic range, but I don't think it does. The last two, as I recall, show the differences between the two cameras when it comes to AWB (for the most part, I prefer the AWB on the K10).

If I get a chance, I'll try to take something this weekend - I'll actually be out of town so the pictures will probably be something equally boring. I'll try tofind a subject that stretches the dynamic range, and shoot raw instead of jpg. This gives me an excuse to see if my tennis elbow really is better or not.

My opinion is that image quality from both cameras is very similar. The K10 has more megapixels and that's great for cropping. I personally haven't noticed extra dynamic range with the K10 at 100 compared to the K100 at 200, but haven't really done a study of it. IHAVE missed having the controls on the camera body over the past couple of weeks while I've been using the K100 exclusively, but (with one exception) I've been quite happy with the pictures I've taken.

As far as lenses, you can always look at the Pentax DA*16-50 f2.8 that came out about a month ago. I've been quite pleased with my DA*50-135 2.8 lens.
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Old Sep 28, 2007, 11:38 PM   #6
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The advice you have received already is spot on perfect. I just have a couple of minor items to add. Like you I like landscapes and have seen your work down in the landscape forum - its wonderful. I use the K100D. I had the option of waiting about a month for the K10 but saw a very effective size comparison of the two together and I really felt that the K100 woud be perfect for me for several years. You need to pick up both and see which one your hands like the best. I do like the smaller lighter body.

Other items - the buffer - 3 Raw shots plus about 10 to 15 seconds additional for the write (using a 4GB 133x SHDC card of good quality). Your thinking action shots, I talking about HDR panels that I want to stitch together, or more than a 3 panel panorama shot. After the third shot, you need to stop and wait for the at least a few seconds for another frame worth of space to open up in the buffer. Its a small detail, but something I keep running into. Also on HDR your limited to +/-2 f stops with a set of 3 frames. I am starting to think about combining more frames or using shutter speed (that can be done manually).

Another one is the orientation of the camera. Using it in the vertical orientation, the K100 body does not mark the orientation in the EXIF meta data, so that when viewing the images in either raw or jpg you must rotate each one manually. Just another small annoyance.

In some ways I would like the ISO speed of 100, 200 is great, however I think I could benefit with 100 at times.

Now I do admit the K100 is an entry body and that is what I was looking for, and it does force me to think and I do find workarounds - which is a great learning experience.

Hope that helps...
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Old Sep 29, 2007, 12:59 AM   #7
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bahadir wrote:
Quote:
Dear Pentaxians,

I'm¬*considering¬*10-20 & 17-70 Sigma combo for either a k10D¬*or a¬*k100d body mainly for landscapes, architecture and museum shots.¬* Appreciating the role of rich colour¬*graduations¬*even more than sharpness¬*in terms of IQ,¬*I would like to know if I¬*might be¬*risking my priority¬*if I choose¬*the k100d body for the sake of a bit less noise and¬* a few free meals : )¬*¬*

Btw, if only tamron 17-50 f/2.8 could¬*be a choice for pentax...

Thanks in advance!
Hi

Met you in the architecture forum and happy that you are considering to jump over to Pentax. If you see the ans in here you know where to turn for advice for any Pentax question.

For your purpose particularly on indoor low light situation, K100D has an edge. It low light performance is simply amazing at iso1600

I did quite a few arch shots inside the Louvre Museum and all of them came out quite ok as you saw

Also the indoor shots I took in the Holy City were mainly iso800 and iso1600

http://forums.steves-digicams.com/fo...772846#p772846


http://forums.steves-digicams.com/fo...754146#p754146

Go back to your question: bodies does actually matter. But in your case, K100D is likely a better choice. Both K10D and K100D are due to be replaced shortly. So both may be selling with a bit of discount

Your preference for Sigma lens is alright. But make sure you have channel to excange (in Turkey? I believe) as it has more sample difference . Translation: Q C issue.

Daniel, Toronto
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Old Sep 30, 2007, 7:45 PM   #8
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These fall in the "for what it's worth" category. I'm just not very good with doing comparison shots - there's always something I forget to set. Most of the ones I took this morning had one camera in jpg and the other in raw. I finally figured it out, but ran out of time. Here's the only one that came close to being the same as far as focus etc. Both cameras were set to daylight white balance, same lens used, the K10 was at 100 ISO and the K100 at 200. Both converted to jpg using Lightroom (whatever the program does naturally), then I used CS2 to either crop or resize them. No other post processing done with the full frame versions - I did try to match the white balance in the version I used for cropping, so that they appeared closer to being identical.

I used the same lens for both pictures. If I were to keep these pictures, the first thing I would probably do is straighten the lines!

Here's the full frame picture, resized to fit here.

K100:

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Old Sep 30, 2007, 7:46 PM   #9
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K10:
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Old Sep 30, 2007, 7:47 PM   #10
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I did two different 100% crops trying to show dynamic range, but there really wasn't all that much range to the picture:

K100:
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