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Old Nov 20, 2007, 4:08 AM   #1
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I decided to make my own remote cable release because I did't want to spend $50 on the Pentax one or wait a month to get one shipped from ebay for $15 or so. Also I was board and I wanted to give this a try.

I've learned a lot from this board and got a lot of information. So here is my chance to give something back to the board. I thought that I would write a detailed how to on this because I don't think there is one on this board. This is pretty much a Dummy's guild on how to do it. There are other guilds on line that you can also uses as reference but this is my version of it.

What you need:
Altoids can or anything like that to house the switch
Wires, can be used from headphone, or used cell phone charger

Momentary Switch
. **make sure they are NORMAL OPEN and NORMAL CLOSE**
Model: 275-1547
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...2062539&cp
$3.49



Stero Plug Jack**make sure it is STERO NOT MONO**
Size- 3/32" or 2.5mm, its the same thing. (standard headphone jack is 1/8" or 3.5mm)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...2062449&cp
$2.99



Tools:
-wire stripper/cutter
-drill with drill bits
-soldering iron
-clams, plyers...

The first step is to set up your working space. It is important to have a clean working space.



Next, locate the wires and lable them. I used an old cell phone battery charger cable that I cut up. It had 4 different colore wires inside of it. RED, YELLOW, GREEN and BLACK. I used the BLACK and GREEN as the GROUND so I twisted them up together and soldered them.



Get the Stero Jack plug and the black part will twist off from the gold part.



Now you need to solder the wires to the Stero plug. Since I paired up the BLACK and GREEN as the GROUND, I will use the RED wire as the AutoFocus and the YELLOW wire as the Shutter. This is how I did it. **TIP**Don't put too much or the black plastic won't go over it. Also make sure that the solder only goes on the part that you want it to and not run over to the other color peice.



Next you need to work on the other end of the wire. This side is a lot easier because you have more room to work on. You have two switch and four wires. Solder the RED(autofocus) wire to one end of the switch and a GROUND wire to the other end, I used GREEN. Do the same thing with the YELLOW(shutter), solder it to one end and a GROUND to the other end, I used BLACK.
If you look at the one on the RIGHT, I used some black electric tape to prevent it from shorting/touching anything else. I taped up both SWITCHES when I was done.



Now we need to drill the hole on the case. I used a small bit drill to start it and finished it with a bigger drill. The size of the bit that I used to finish it for the correct size is 5/16. I did two on the back for the SWITCH and one on the bottom for the cable.


Pop it in, put the washer on and finish it off with the screw.



Finish it up and it will look like this.








The unit worked fine and I am happy with it.

This project took me about an hour to do. I am not good with soldering so I asked a friend to do the soldering part for me. Now is it worth it to make something like this? To me it was, because I liked doing stuff like this. I cost me about $5 to get the parts and about an hour of my time to do it.
But if you don't want to do this because you don't have the time or have the skills(soldering) you can buy one from ebay for pretty cheap and looks a lot better then this. The only only problem is that most of them are shipped from China so it will take about 3 weeks to get here. Or you can simply buy it from pentax for about $50.

The only thing that sucks about this is that I won't dare to take this on the plain.

Happy shotting
:|

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Old Nov 20, 2007, 7:55 AM   #2
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Actually my cheap ebay one took 4 days to get to UK from HK.

I would not be seen dead in public with yours either :lol:
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Old Nov 20, 2007, 9:09 AM   #3
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you forgot to put in a button for when you use BULB. just wire it in with the shutter . no extra wires to the cam needed.
or try HERE. you can get wireless for even less.
i keep that one in my car all the time because i forget it too much. the one i made has a momentary DPDT toggle on it and a really small continuous toggle for BULB.

a nice TUT tho and thanks.

roy
edit: try this for your next project.



or this. LED light, DIY reversing ring with a way to attach accessories




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Old Nov 20, 2007, 10:07 AM   #4
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another tip. i made an extension for mine about 25 feet long with teleohone wire and it works great.

roy
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Old Nov 20, 2007, 12:25 PM   #5
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I didn't put a bulb switch because I didn't think that I need it. I never really used it before. I can always tape it down.:lol:
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Old Nov 20, 2007, 3:03 PM   #6
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The only suggestion that I could make to "improve" the design would be to change the hole where the wires exit the box into a U groove so you could slide the cord out and possibly store the cord in the box when not in use (looks like it would fit).

. . .and as for the "look" of it -- you could always paint the box. . .

Scott
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Old Nov 20, 2007, 4:25 PM   #7
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thanks for the info

i like doing those kind of week end projects
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Old Nov 20, 2007, 7:56 PM   #8
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I made a very simple one that works great for my k110. I use

manual focus lenses so I only needed one switch , 2 wires , and the

3 conductor plug. Left the center of the plug open. It works like gang

busters..... Jim


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Old Nov 21, 2007, 10:42 AM   #9
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I would personally use microswitches and a bit of heat-shrink sleeving, much more compact. But yeah, I got a real one for $6/£3 from HK in a few days, it's rather flimsy but it does the job on the very rare occasion I need it.
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 2:02 PM   #10
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Tuscola Jim wrote:
Quote:
I made a very simple one that works great for my k110. I use

manual focus lenses so I only needed one switch , 2 wires , and the

3 conductor plug. Left the center of the plug open. It works like gang

busters..... Jim

jim,
the focus button will also wake the camera up when it's been sitting awhile. example: camera on tripod focused on the humming bird feeder..
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