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Old Mar 13, 2008, 5:09 PM   #21
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Mark1616 wrote:
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I'm not sure what lens you are using, but I always use AF on AI Servo/AF-C mode when shooting motorsports. I get a very high amount of keepers when shooting in this way. I have previously used the pre-focus method but only would have a couple of usable ones from each sequence. Give it a bash, as long as you lens focuses reasonably quickly you should be fine, especially as focus does not need to change much when doing panning.

The last thing is which option to use for focus points. I've tried both centre point and all points and I can't decide which I find best so give it a bash!

Anyway..... nice sharp vibrant shots and like the rest looking forward to seeing more!!

Edit - Just realised you did say what the lens was.... so now I should say I'm not sure how fast it AFs.
Thanks Mark. As far as how fast that lens auto focuses . . . it doesn't :-). Next year at this time I am hoping to have the new Pentax 50-135mm HSM lens and I will try your suggestions.

Tim

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Old Mar 13, 2008, 5:12 PM   #22
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I've got a really good idea, don't AF at the moment LOL
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Old Mar 13, 2008, 7:58 PM   #23
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excellent work!

nice to see from the pentax world
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Old Mar 13, 2008, 8:49 PM   #24
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I usually prefer the prefocus method as it goes with the composition of the shot.

I only want one keeper per sequence, the one where the angle of the subject and the background seem to work better for composition.

Then I am also looking to make this point fill the frame as much as possible within the limits of my panning technique.


Phil
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Old Mar 14, 2008, 5:10 AM   #25
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Hi Tim

Great Shots!!!! You have got the panning down Pat. I use the same method as you and it works very well.
I am looking forward to more Shots
!!


Phil





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Old Mar 14, 2008, 5:14 AM   #26
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philneast wrote:
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I usually prefer the prefocus method as it goes with the composition of the shot.

I only want one keeper per sequence, the one where the angle of the subject and the background seem to work better for composition.

Then I am also looking to make this point fill the frame as much as possible within the limits of my panning technique.


Phil
That is all well and good, however if the action suddenly gets interesting (spin/crash etc) outside of where you are pre-focused you will not be able to get that sharp.

I'm not saying pre-focus doesn't work (I used to use it myself) with with fast/accurate AF I can capture more action.
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Old Mar 14, 2008, 5:44 AM   #27
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NonEntity1 wrote:
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I think panning with a manual focus may be easier than auto (never tried it though).* I just prefocus on the section of track where I want to make the shot, pick up the car approaching me in the viewfinder, and follow it through shooting a three shot burst.** If there is any secret it is keeping your upper body and arms rigid and pivoting only at the waist.

Tim
Tim

You had really good panning result. I have never mastered that part with slow shutter speed to catch the motion either of a fast car or bird.
My BIF panning shots were all done at over 1/1500s and strictly speaking mine are not panning shots.
Keep up with it .I love the sense of motion

Daniel
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Old Mar 14, 2008, 6:58 PM   #28
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Mark1616 wrote:
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philneast wrote:
Quote:
I usually prefer the prefocus method as it goes with the composition of the shot.

I only want one keeper per sequence, the one where the angle of the subject and the background seem to work better for composition.

Then I am also looking to make this point fill the frame as much as possible within the limits of my panning technique.


Phil
That is all well and good, however if the action suddenly gets interesting (spin/crash etc) outside of where you are pre-focused you will not be able to get that sharp.

I'm not saying pre-focus doesn't work (I used to use it myself) with with fast/accurate AF I can capture more action.
Mark

I am not confident in the speed of the Pentax AF system for motorsports.

The Pentax AF system does not seem to be as relaible as your new Canon D1 Mk111, especially in lower light conditions.

I get a reasonable number of crashes etc but I have also lost some when the AF sytem decide to hunt over the entire focus range before refocussing correctly. both my DS and K10D do this, particularly in low light , low contrast situations.

The HSM version of my current motosrport workhorse zoom is set for release later this year, that may make a difference.

Phil

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Old Mar 14, 2008, 7:13 PM   #29
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philneast wrote:
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Mark

I am not confident in the speed of the Pentax AF system for motorsports.

The Pentax AF system does not seem to be as relaible as your new Canon D1 Mk111, especially in lower light conditions.

I get a reasonable number of crashes etc but I have also lost some when the AF sytem decide to hunt over the entire focus range before refocussing correctly. both my DS and K10D do this, particularly in low light , low contrast situations.

The HSM version of my current motosrport workhorse zoom is set for release later this year, that may make a difference.

Phil
Phil - it's about knowing your equipment and getting the best out of it. So I think you're making a great decision. And the results speak for themselves.
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Old Mar 14, 2008, 8:17 PM   #30
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philneast wrote:
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Mark

I am not confident in the speed of the Pentax AF system for motorsports.

The Pentax AF system does not seem to be as relaible as your new Canon D1 Mk111, especially in lower light conditions.

I get a reasonable number of crashes etc but I have also lost some when the AF sytem decide to hunt over the entire focus range before refocussing correctly. both my DS and K10D do this, particularly in low light , low contrast situations.

The HSM version of my current motosrport workhorse zoom is set for release later this year, that may make a difference.

Phil
Well I'm yet to shoot motorsports with the mkIII , I started shooting motorsports with a Konica Minolta 5D and Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 and then have done the majority of the rest of my motorsport shooting with the Canon 30D.

As John rightly says, it is knowing how to get the best out of the kit that you shoot with it was just a suggestion for consideration as unless shooting straight on such as this type of scenario where the speed trap was clocking the top cars at over 100mph at this point (yes I was in the firing line if something went wrong!!!), then the change of distance between subject and camera is not taking place at a high speed.



My reason for suggesting was to open up people to the different options when shooting different subject types so we can all learn from each other, which I believe we are doing here by sharing our ideas and experiences.
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