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Old May 27, 2008, 6:08 PM   #21
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you've got a point....


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Old May 27, 2008, 10:46 PM   #22
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At least your computer problem stuck on a nice picture of a lovely big golden ball of velcro (a friend of mine always called Golden Retrievers velcro dogs, and mine sure was. I still miss him). Pictures like this make me yearn for retirement and the time when I can finally get another golden puppy.
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Old Jun 2, 2008, 11:18 AM   #23
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so, got my camera, my new 18-250 lens will arrive this week (i hope), so time for somepractice sessions.

some questions

any situation where it is better not to use the vibration reduction setting, or reversely; is there any potentially negative effect of using it?

i kind of know the pro/cons of choosing your shutter time but still double checking; considering i will want usually a depth of field a large as possible>> this means i should go for a as long shutter time as I/ camera can cope with without affecting the imagequality through unsteady hands (say 1/60 or 1/125, possibly 1/250 for faster action or 250mm zoom lens), so that I get a as small as possible aperture.

If this is correct, besides a greater depth of field, does this give me any other advantages (or disadvantages) in picture quality (sharpness, contrast, colour) or are those factors not influenced by lens aperture at all??

further questions

understand that there are rechargeable batteries i can get and use, which is great for homeland use, however, for my african safari i cannot rely on that so i need advice on the best non rechargeable to go for, either AA or CRV3

also will need some kind of bag i can store the camera in to give 100% protection against dust, water etc, really needs to be 100% waterproof, as we'll be going amongst others on acanoetrip, suggestions?



thanks



gerbo






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Old Jun 2, 2008, 8:13 PM   #24
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I don't have an answer to your camera bag question as I have (and love) Lowepro's Slingshot 200, but it's not as waterproof as you would need.

As far as your other questions:

SR shouldn't be used with a tripod. I accidentally took some moon pictures with SR on when the K100 was mounted on a tripod and didn't think it made a difference, but it does with the K20 and the manual says not to use it. Otherwise I use it all the time.

Depth of field depends on 3 factors - aperture, focal length of the lens and the distance to the subject. In general, the focal length at a specific aperture will get smaller the longer the lens - so you have a much smaller DOF at 300mm f4 than you do at 24mm f4. And, as you described, the smaller the aperture number, the smaller the DOF so a 50mm at 1.4 will have a tiny DOF but a large DOF at f22. Finally, if you are a couple of inches from your subject (macro distances) your DOF will be much smaller than it would be if your subject is a meter away. All lenses have a specific distance that I call it's "maximum" focusing distance - anything beyond that distance will be in focus. That also depends on the lens - for instance, a 12mm lens might have everything from 6 feet out to infinity in focus, while my A*300 still has an OOF background at 150 feet, so it's distance is way out there (minimum focusing distance is something like 11 feet).

And speaking about aperture - often a lens is softer when stopped way down (like f16, f22 or whatever it's minimum aperture is). So while you might get a big DOF, the picture could be soft - best thing to do is experiment and find out what you'd give up by going beyond a lens's sharpest aperture (it depends on the lens).

Since you are talking about going on a safari, the other thing to consider is the movement of your subject, as well as the steadiness of your hands. Don't bother trying to capture a running cheetah using a shutter speed of 1/60 - you might be able to hand-hold it with SR, but your subject will be a complete blur (I once tried taking pictures of a football practice that was under the lights - the lines were sharp but the players were just a blur). That's where the K100 Super's nice high ISO performance will come in handy - you can get useable pictures at 1600, which will give you faster shutter speeds.

I'm more into concepts andnot much on charts and figures; there are websites out there that can give you DOF figures. My suggestion is to go out and take lots of pictures at all kinds of settings - see what the differences are if you change something. That will give you a better feel for what you will actually get, given specified settings. Go out and photograph all kinds of things around your neighborhood/area, your dog playing. Visit the zoo etc. and see which pictures work and which don't. Be happy if half of them don't work, just remember what didn't and figure out why they didn't, then compare them to ones that did work. The biggest thing is to have fun while you do it, and you'll figure out how best to use your equipment.
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Old Jun 5, 2008, 4:47 AM   #25
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Hi Wittetulp,

I thought you must have been having problems with you 'puta, all "Golden" owners know the dog would have been asleep before you had taken the last of thoes pic's.

Simon
(Had three, non at the moment )
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Old Jun 5, 2008, 4:49 AM   #26
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P.S.

or leaning up against you, or trying to sit on your lap ...
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Old Jun 5, 2008, 8:50 AM   #27
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or other unspeakable acts of affection.....:lol:
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Old Jun 5, 2008, 5:52 PM   #28
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Have you ever noticed that Golden owners tend to dress a lot in brown clothes? They might have started out a different color when the owner put them on, but they end up looking golden brownafter a couple of minutes...
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Old Jun 6, 2008, 6:29 AM   #29
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:-):-):-)

Simon
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Old Jun 6, 2008, 6:37 PM   #30
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Whe you are out in the field things happen quickly - you often don't have time to think of which settings are best for the prevailing conditions, so let the camera do the thinking for you (at least until you get more experience), and don't be afraid to use the preset modes (macro, landscape, moving object, etc). The other day I had the opportunity to get some pictures of erratic and fast moving birds under varying lighting (fog, low clouds, and sun). Time was too limited for evaluating trial shots, so I (for the first time) put the camera into "moving object" mode and was quite pleased with the results (http://forums.steves-digicams.com/fo...mp;forum_id=80). And always use the SR when hand holding the camera, especially with the longer lenses, although some will advise to turn it off when panning to follow a moving object, I always leave it on (partly because you can forget to turn it on when you need it) and never had a problem with the K100. Good luck on your trip and let us see some of the results.
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