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Old Mar 22, 2009, 8:03 PM   #11
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I'll be interested to see how you react to the camera - you've got to post what you think. I know I thought the K20 was an upgrade to the K10 and I've been really happy with mine, it'll be interesting to see if you feel the same way.
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Old Mar 22, 2009, 8:16 PM   #12
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Hi Harriet,

Well I have to admit that, if I remember correctly, you are fairly short like my wife. So if you can handle the K20, then at 6'3", it should not present a problem. I know that I mulled over the K100 weight and size before ordering it, and for me its the perfect size. 5 oz should not be a real burden, and with the lens mounted it will probably not matter at all.

That said, I have picked up a number of Canon and Nikon body / lens combinations and they are massive - brick like. I would give up photography (well at least SLRs) if I had to go that route.

We will know by sometime next weekend - will see if it arrives by Saturday....
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Old Mar 24, 2009, 9:03 PM   #13
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interested_observer wrote:
Quote:
What areas of the K20 would I like to use the most...[list][*]ISO 100 - I am finding that the K100's 200 is limiting, especially for evening and sunset work.* Also, I find that I like to shoot in the evening.* I do not think that 3200 and 6400 would be that useful.
[/*][*]Orientation Sensor - its a little thing, but having to constantly rotate everything is annoying.[/*][*]The Menu - moving a number of functions out to manual wheels, would certainly help.[/*][*]The PentaMirror - I like my old Spotmatic II prism much better.[/*][*]Resolution - going from 6 to 14MP would certainly help with the IQ and real estate for cropping, and increase the overall resolution for stitching.[/*][*]Buffer Size - When shooting images for stitching, I keep over running the buffer size and have to wait.
I did upgrade from K100D direct to K20D skipping one generation.

Additional points for upgrading :
1. Dust removal - it does work
2. SDM lenses - I know that your lens list does not have one. But you will get that in future
3. Rear remote trigger receiver
4. Slightly better AF working with the lenses with SDM
5. Lack of X-Sync socket. K100D cannot trigger the ind standard pocket wizard

Daniel
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Old Mar 24, 2009, 10:03 PM   #14
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I recently made the same upgrade (K100 to K20). I love it. It's only marginally heavier in my opinion. I probably wouldn't even notice it except I seem to have torn some tendons in my arm and any weight at all is hurting it.

There may be things on this camera I'll never learn how to use. Tthere were things on the K100 I never found time to use. But, if there's something I want to do, I think the K20 will do it.

I'm itching for some warm weather and color to go out and test it some. Most photos I've taken since I got it just before Christmas have been under cloudy conditions. I really want to see what I get in bright sunlight.

Anyway, congrats on your purchase. I hope you get it by Saturday. I know I watched the mail every day for mine!:-)

Patty
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Old Mar 25, 2009, 12:05 PM   #15
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Thanks for the comments!!! I do not know if I should start a new thread or just continue... So, I will just continue here.

The camera will be here tomorrow, Thursday - according to the tracking number from FedEx. I have a number of items that I would like to try out over the weekend (mainly panoramas of Camelback Mountain - across a number of my lenses). Which brings me to the latest set of questions...

What set of setup parameters should I consider first?
1) I was thinking of changing the image name template to "K20" so as to distinguish with the K100
2) Do I need to test out my lenses for the backfocusing (might not be the right term) adjustment?
3) What should I do first? What procedure has been the most productive for everyone here with an upgraded body? (other than charge the battery).
4) I have always shot RAW, so which RAW format is better?

Thanks in Advance...
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Old Mar 25, 2009, 12:55 PM   #16
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Let me provide my input to your quesitons:

1. I set my image name to K20D to distinguish it from the pictures I still take (or my 13 year old daughter does) with the DL. It is easy enough to set and re-set.

2. I performed a focus testwith my K20D and the 2 lenses that I purchased with it (DA*16-50 & DA*50-135). I used the widest aperture (f/2 to confirm the accuracy of the focusing (i.e. back/front focusing issues). Shooting at smaller apertures can sometime mask front/back focusing issues due to the greater DoF. Fortunately, no adjustments were necessary in my case!

3. Besides charding the battery, I recommend that you confirm that all of the basic mechanical & electronic functions workas specificed. (i.e. various picture taking modes, self timers, flash, Av and Tv adjustments, DoF function, auto focus, shake reduction,etc). You may also wish to peruse the owners manual :lol:

4. As for RAW, I use the PEF format; I have not used the DNG format and am honestly speaking not sure if there is a performance difference.

Have a blast!! Looking forward to seeing some pictures soon.
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Old Mar 25, 2009, 1:55 PM   #17
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Congratulations on your purchase. Decisions without hands-on examination are always difficult, but I am sure you will find it satisfactory.

Quote:
Remote - the K100 does not support it and its something I have played around with on the Canon SD500 and would like to try it with a dSLR - I have a lot of ideas.
Although it is now a nonissue in this case, the record should be set straight for other readers. All Pentax digital dslrs (from the first *ist D on up) have supported two remotes - the usual electronic cable release ("cable switch") and the infra-red remote release. The latter has had a sensor window on the front of the camera, but as has been mentioned in another response, the K20 adds a second sensor window on the back.

I would add the obvious to the other suggestions of what to do first - go through the menus on the LCD panel for familiarization, and note the defaults and available options - these can of course be seen in tHe manual (and previewed on Steve's animated review of the camera), but there is no substitute for hands on familiarity. Then do a "dry run" through the various positions on the mode dial and familiarize yourself with the displays on the top panel and in the viewfinder. Before you get it, it might be a good idea (if you haven't already) to go through Steve's step-by-step tutorial (actually his review) so you know what to expect.
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Old Mar 25, 2009, 3:22 PM   #18
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interested_observer wrote:
Quote:
What set of setup parameters should I consider first?
1) I was thinking of changing the image name template to "K20" so as to distinguish with the K100
2) Do I need to test out my lenses for the backfocusing (might not be the right term) adjustment?
3) What should I do first? What procedure has been the most productive for everyone here with an upgraded body? (other than charge the battery).
4) I have always shot RAW, so which RAW format is better?

Thanks in Advance...
1. Changing your image name to something unique, assuming you are keeping the K100, is a VERY good idea! I did that first thing, though I use "P2K0" initially (you use 4 digits). I changed it to "P2K1" when I passed 10,000 shots. That way I have an extra number for the image numbering system. I think I might be the only person in the world who keeps their pictures labeled with the camera's numbering system (which is chronological, I store them in date folders).

2. I always go out and shoot real-life things first, and then shoot focus charts only if I find myself having problems. Take test shots around the house and in the yard to see if you even need to shoot charts. I probably should shoot charts with the DA*50-135 as I think it backfocuses a bit. But it's not enough for me to sit down and actually do something about it.

3. If you shoot much raw+ or jpg, push the fn button and then the OK button to check out the new color mode adjustments. I wasn't totally crazy about the default bright or natural settings, so I played around with various adjustments quite a bit. If you only shoot raw, don't bother. Definitely make sure you look closely at all the new dials and buttons. You won't have trouble figuring out which does what as the functions are mostly available on the K100, just buried in menus. Note where to select focus points and how to change between spot, center and matrix metering (I use that all the time!).

4. I don't think I've noticed any difference between dng and pef. PEF files are a bit smaller. I've gone back and forth, recently I've been using dng - when you add things like keywords in Lightroom, that information can be saved directly to the metadata of the file, without using a sidecar file. That way I can take the pictures I'm not immediately working on out of the Lightroom library, but be able to have it all keyworded if I want to add them back in when looking for something from the archives(Lightroom bogs down when I have large numbers of pictures in it).

5. As with any camera, read or skim through the manual with the camera on your lap, getting used to what is where.

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Old Mar 25, 2009, 5:16 PM   #19
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Hi IO,

The K20's feature set is pretty daunting. Harriet's suggestions are spot on, IMO.

I also use the camera's image names, using date folders to hold the files. I use the date folders created by the K20, then create sub folders for the DS or K10 if I use a second body. After PP, I copy the processed images into a "Done" folder for the month. If I need to go back to the original, I just check the "Created Date" in the exif and go back to that date folder.

I'd also suggest that you go out and shoot first and forget about the focus adjustments unless you find a consistant problem with a particular lens. Focus adjustments should only be done in natural light, and with very controlled conditions. It works better if your focus target is exactly parallel to the sensor plane and vertical. The focus charts that you print off the web aren't ideal. I'd either build a copy of, or buy a LensAlign:

http://www.rawworkflow.com/lensalign

I shoot mostly jpeg, so I don't have any suggestions for RAW. . . but my jpeg settings have settled to Hue and Sharpness 0, Saturation -1, Contrast +1.

Congrats on the camera --- I am confident that you'll be impressed. With my DS, I'd use up to ISO 800 with confidence. With the K10, I'd usually limit to ISO 320. With the K20, I use Auto ISO 100-1250 and rarely change the setting.

Scott
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Old Mar 25, 2009, 9:34 PM   #20
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Evening Everyone, Thanks for all the information. I have been pursing the online manual, so as to at least be familiar with the unit.

On the topic of Remote - I was referring to having the camera remoted to a PC (small nettop) by way of the USB interface using the Pentax Remote Utility. On my K100, I have both the wired and wireless (IR) remote and they work fine, I just want to be able to do a number of other tasks, like the Astrophotography - setting everything up remotely and then taking the shots.

Thanks again for the suggestions and recommendations. I know I will be back with additional questions.
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