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Old Oct 5, 2009, 1:02 PM   #1
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Default K10D Monitor flashes red-balanced exposure ?

My monitor flashs red especially when I take pictures during cloudy days. I think it's telling me there is too much over exposure in these areas.

I think I've messed around with the different exposure and meter systems of my K10D too much, over the time I've had it and I feel that the camera tends to over expose.

Or there could be something wrong with my K10D. I note that my automatic everything KM (K2000) generally seems to take pix with the appearance of less 'over exposure' in the picture.

What am I or the K10D doing wrong?

Any suggestions how to bring it back to what would be in my eyes, less 'over' exposed pictures ?

Sorry, but I'm computer illiterate and try as I might cannot figure out how to display a picture....so in this case I'm hoping that 100 words explain things better than a picture.

Thank you for your help.
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Old Oct 5, 2009, 1:30 PM   #2
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I'd reset your custom menu options to factory defaults, then use the reset choice in the setup menus to reset everything back to factory defaults and see if that solves it.

You'll find two different reset commands (one in your record menus for custom functions, and another in your setup menus for resetting everything). They're the last menu choices on these screens:
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Old Oct 5, 2009, 2:24 PM   #3
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In addition to resetting the camera to default settings, check to make sure you don't have an Ev compensation set. I'm not sure that will reset with the menu reset options as it is a separate button on the top of the camera. I don't have either the K10 or K20 with me at the moment, but it seems to me that if you hold down the Ev button (as I recall, on the top of the camera) and push the green button, that will reset the camera back to its normal exposure setting. It would be my guess that you set it at some point to overexpose a particular scene (there are lots of reasons why you would). Most of the time my K10 underexposed things slightly.

Another thought is to make sure your battery isn't getting low, as I've sometimes found that a low battery makes the camera give weird exposures (not always, just occasionally). This isn't what I would expect from your post, as you indicate it's been a gradual thing, not something recent.
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Old Oct 5, 2009, 3:12 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
I'd reset your custom menu options to factory defaults, then use the reset choice in the setup menus to reset everything back to factory defaults and see if that solves it.

You'll find two different reset commands (one in your record menus for custom functions, and another in your setup menus for resetting everything). They're the last menu choices on these screens:

Jim,

Thanks, The complete resets in both areas coupled with Mtngal's suggestions...seemed to do the trick, . Thank you again, for the advice.

Les



In addition to resetting the camera to default settings, check to make sure you don't have an Ev compensation set. I'm not sure that will reset with the menu reset options as it is a separate button on the top of the camera. I don't have either the K10 or K20 with me at the moment, but it seems to me that if you hold down the Ev button (as I recall, on the top of the camera) and push the green button, that will reset the camera back to its normal exposure setting. It would be my guess that you set it at some point to overexpose a particular scene (there are lots of reasons why you would). Most of the time my K10 underexposed things slightly.



Another thought is to make sure your battery isn't getting low, as I've sometimes found that a low battery makes the camera give weird exposures (not always, just occasionally). This isn't what I would expect from your post, as you indicate it's been a gradual thing, not something recent.

Mtngal,

Thanks for the advice. I had been moving around my EV settings to try to get my 360 Flash to work better and I think that led to some difficulty.

I haven't been particularly happy with the Pentax 360 flash, especially when taking pix of classic cars at night...the darkness just seems to 'absorb' the flash. So I was doing the usual things, moving the EV around, increasing the ISO, moving the F stop down ...the problem there , I'm finding is finding the balance between F Stops in the F1.4 to 4 range and still getting adequate depth of field.

As per your recommendations, I held down the green button and the EV button at the same time.

The exposure is back to where I like it. Thanks to both Jim C. and Mtngal for their effective suggestions.

Les
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Old Oct 5, 2009, 9:26 PM   #5
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I'm glad I'm not the only one who finds flash mystifying and have unexpected results, and I have the 540 flash. I'm getting better able to judge what I want to do, but always check the LCD as I find it hit and miss. Before I got the K-7, I often just put the flash to A instead of PTTL and used the guide on the back for the aperture and ISO, based on the distance scale on the flash itself. I haven't used the flash much on the K-7.
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Old Oct 6, 2009, 5:02 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by mtngal View Post
I'm glad I'm not the only one who finds flash mystifying and have unexpected results, and I have the 540 flash. I'm getting better able to judge what I want to do, but always check the LCD as I find it hit and miss. Before I got the K-7, I often just put the flash to A instead of PTTL and used the guide on the back for the aperture and ISO, based on the distance scale on the flash itself. I haven't used the flash much on the K-7.
It is good to hear (sort of ) that others also find the Pentax 360 or 540 baffling. I have spent quite a bit of time working through the 360 manual and as the last camera listed in the manual is the 'istD' ...I think the manual is sorely in need of an update. I bought my 360 new, from a camera dealer in 2008.

I'm even at the stage where I wonder if the 360 flash (mine anyways) will work consistently on either my K10D or KM. I wonder if it is a relic from film days that may have too many design compromises to do consistently well on modern digital cameras.

I'm just speculating though...mostly because in comparison, my other flash, a Vivitar 285 HV , which in the past 25 years has done fine with everything from a Mamiya 220 TLR, Leica Rangefinder and a whole bunch of Pentax slr 35mm cameras.

It's a great flash...consistent, well exposed flash pix time after time on all these cameras.

I don't dare use Vivitar 285 HV on my K10D or KM (k2000) as I'm afraid it may fry their circuits.

Les
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Old Oct 7, 2009, 1:49 AM   #7
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Les,

You may want to try the Wein Safe sync, which would allow you to use your older, but quite effective, Vivatar flash guns with your new DSLRS.

Safe-Sync Hot Shoe to Hot Shoe High Voltage Sync Regulator (SSHSHS)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._Shoe_to.html#

thepusher
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