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Old Jun 7, 2010, 4:17 PM   #11
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I just found a new way to RESIZE my photos. I just did not like the way PSE8 was resizing the photo above. Below is the a PSE8 Resized photo, and the second is resized with another programme, but the lighting and processing was done with PSE8. Now, please look again and tell me which is better. Thanks.
Hm,
I don't like the 2nd one. Too harsh, especially the leaves against the clouds. I think you are trying for more detail in a downsized image, right? If so - go for high detail in your original shot first, downsize with one of the more sophisticated algorithms (try a bit, they all have strengths and weaknesses) and apply a tad (just a tad!) sharpening to the downsized image.

In some case a mild over-sharpening of the original image BEFORE downsizing works, BUT too much traditional sharpening will give those nasty halo-like effects in strong contrast areas, which really spoil everything.

If you really want to dig deeper, search the forum a bit... there are some nice posts on sharpening / getting high detail. Especially the bird lovers have some interesting approaches to bring out the feathers and stuff.

Deconvolution and local contrast enhancement are other ways.

Most important rule: don't overdo! You can easily destroy a lovely photo with sharpening artefacts.

Wall of text, I know Sorry.

The image itself is almost magical and I can completely understand why you want to get the most out of it.

Kind regards,
Th.
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Old Jun 7, 2010, 4:26 PM   #12
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Many kind thanks, indeed, Th. I am just so new to post-processing on a computer and using a digital camera. As I mentioned earlier, I didn't "take" the shot as I would have liked... thus it left much to be desired. I really, really appreciate your advice and will try to do things in smaller increments.

Not sure what you mean about "downsize with one of the more sophisticated algorithms... I still have a lot to learn.

Again my kind thanks.

Ned
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Old Jun 7, 2010, 4:45 PM   #13
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Not sure what you mean about "downsize with one of the more sophisticated algorithms...
Most programs will at least give you bilinear and bicubic resize/scale algorithms, but there are many more.

Hint: If your image postprocessing software of choice allow for negative values in the filter settings, try a gaussian blur with negative strength... PSE has a similar technique for sharpening/detail works by the way.

And you are welcome.

Regards,
Th.
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Old Jun 7, 2010, 10:57 PM   #14
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I thought I'd play with it a bit in Topaz Lab's Detail plug-in for PSE/photoshop. I came up with this. Not sure it's a huge improvement, but it brought out more detail. I think I'll try Nik's Viveza and see what that does to it also.
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Old Jun 7, 2010, 11:05 PM   #15
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Here's one with Nik's software, a couple of minutes work. By the way, I started with your first version of the picture, the one resized with PSE. I'm sure you could do better with the original file, but I was curious about how the two programs would handle your scene. Hmm - they look different in my web browser than they do on my monitor in PSE. I give up, it's after my bedtime!
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Old Jun 8, 2010, 12:46 AM   #16
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THANK YOU, Harriet! Where do you get Nick's Viveza software and topaz pluggin. I presume these are not freeware?

Also, please forgive me for confusing things, I submitted FIVE photos 3 then 2. Which photo are you working from. I would say that #4 is the one with resizing only and has not been post-processed in any way.

Thanks.
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Old Jun 8, 2010, 1:13 AM   #17
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Uhoh... the thread has grown over the night. Good morning all!

@Eetu
I am with Harriet here, if there was any chance to post/send the original file (preferrable RAW of course), it would be a great help. Other people but you couldn't say exactly for the colors and the overall feeling because only YOU saw the scenery in real life... but detail/sharpness is a more technical thingie to say so

By the way - "wood scenes" like these are more a challenge for me in terms of lighting and color than detail anyway. Detail/sharpness is plenty in most shots, where getting the photo close to what you saw with your eyes is way more difficult. For now I underexpose most shots by 2-3EV, if I have the time shooting series. I then work from a rather dark image as I found, that you can recover enough detail in the dark areas in most cases. Clipped highlights on the other hand are lost forever.

I guess what I want to say with it is... don't be to sad about the last tiny bit of detail if the overall image is as nice as it can get in other terms.

Kind regards,
Th.
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Old Jun 8, 2010, 1:35 AM   #18
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Uhoh... the thread has grown over the night. Good morning all!

@Eetu
I am with Harriet here, if there was any chance to post/send the original file (preferrable RAW of course), it would be a great help. Other people but you couldn't say exactly for the colors and the overall feeling because only YOU saw the scenery in real life... but detail/sharpness is a more technical thingie to say so

By the way - "wood scenes" like these are more a challenge for me in terms of lighting and color than detail anyway. Detail/sharpness is plenty in most shots, where getting the photo close to what you saw with your eyes is way more difficult. For now I underexpose most shots by 2-3EV, if I have the time shooting series. I then work from a rather dark image as I found, that you can recover enough detail in the dark areas in most cases. Clipped highlights on the other hand are lost forever.

I guess what I want to say with it is... don't be to sad about the last tiny bit of detail if the overall image is as nice as it can get in other terms.

Kind regards,
Th.
How can I send you the RAW photo? Many thanks. Ned
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Old Jun 8, 2010, 10:44 AM   #19
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As you asked. This is just a color space conversion. From sRGB to Pro Photo color space then converting it back to sRGB before saving in Photo Shop. If you do not convert from Pro Photo before saving it you lose that color space. By converting in Photo Shop before saving the color space pallet is saved as well. Then the sRGB color space has the same colors as the Pro Photo color space you worked in. Any way the first one is you Irfanview processed one and the second one is the Pro Photo one. You'll notice there is not as much difference between these as it was originally re-worked in the Irfanview processor.
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Old Jun 8, 2010, 12:32 PM   #20
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Ed, I can't thank you enough for the information you have explained above. I just didn't know this, so many kind thanks for your help! It is very much appreciated!!! Please chime in anytime you see something that improved on. The IrfanView programme is NOT the only programme for resizing, I am just "experimenting to see how various photo programmes resize photos... All the best. Ned
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