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Old Jun 20, 2010, 6:53 PM   #11
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Looking good mate!

Been an expensive month, hopefully will be able to get a Raynox this/next month to play with. Got 2:1 macro with the DIY extension tube and my old 4x closeup filter. Replacing that with the Raynox should give me better results.
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Old Jun 20, 2010, 8:19 PM   #12
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Looking good mate!

Been an expensive month, hopefully will be able to get a Raynox this/next month to play with. Got 2:1 macro with the DIY extension tube and my old 4x closeup filter. Replacing that with the Raynox should give me better results.
Thank you Ash,
I was really surprised, after seeing the results Ronny and Kevin were getting with this lens, I thought it would cost more than it did!
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Old Jun 20, 2010, 10:32 PM   #13
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Which version of Photoshop do you have? CS4 has the ability to stack automatically, though I do find it sometimes makes mistakes and it's a pain to find the layer that's right and change the various layer masks of the other layers to correct it.

If using CS4, use the script to load files into stack, making sure you check "auto align". Then, once that's done, select all layers and go to edit, auto-blend layers. The program will create layer masks over the layers, keeping the parts that have the sharpest edges. It won't work with your pictures, I think the flower moved between frames. The program aligned the outside of the flower but the stamens are in different places (I tried). The manual way would work best in this case, but it will take longer.

I've often thought about getting a Raynox, but there's some other things that have higher priority for me. But your pictures do give me incentive to think more about it. Now if I could just win the lottery or Mega-Millions...
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Old Jun 21, 2010, 1:00 PM   #14
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I've often thought about getting a Raynox, but there's some other things that have higher priority for me. But your pictures do give me incentive to think more about it. Now if I could just win the lottery or Mega-Millions...
Harriet, there are two Raynox lenses, and they are really quite reasonable for what you get - both can be gotten for around $100 ($40 and $60 respectively), and you really need both. And don't be deceived by the names - the 150 and 250 are not 1.5X and 2.5X, but are actually 4.8 and 8 diopters. Used properly, they can give very good results. The DOF of the 250 is VERY shallow, especially with the greater magnification of longer lenses; depending on the size of the subject in the field, in some cases you could be better off using the 150 and cropping. These are not like the simple single lens diopters that come in sets, they are multilens units, highly corrected. Their magnification can vary depending on the distance between the front element of the master lens and the converter - the farther away, the greater the magnification (and the less the DOF). A master lens with a deeply recessed front element (like some macro lenses), or added step-up or step-down rings will create larger images than those where the two lenses are closer together, and may be outside the design specifications of the lenses. I suspect this (or failure to remove an intervening filter) may be why I have seen so many soft images posted from the 250.
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Old Jun 21, 2010, 5:12 PM   #15
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Pen, I really appreciate the detailed info you (and others) add to a lot post I see here on the forum.
Its great to be able to glean the knowledge from those in the know!
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Old Jun 21, 2010, 10:59 PM   #16
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Penolta, thanks for the additional information about them. I thought they were more expensive. There's some software that I've been using quite a bit that's almost through it's trial time. I'm seriously thinking that it's something I really don't want to do without and that will have priority. Then there's LR3 with its noise reduction capability that would be nice, along with the DA*16-50 that I'm supposed to be saving up for. The list goes on and on, doesn't it? Sigh!
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Old Jun 22, 2010, 8:34 PM   #17
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Well Harriet,
if I should ever win the lottery... I promise to share with you.
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