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Old Jan 5, 2013, 6:37 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by gfurm View Post
Post some photos of your efforts as well, that could help.
Good thought. But I'd want to black out everyone's faces before posting, which would be a lot of work. These pictures are just for Facebook and to burn to DVD for the kids for when they grow up.

But with all the comments and thinking about it I've broken down shots into three scenarios.

Scenario 1: Stroke of Midnight shot
- I had the Pentax AF540FGZ on my Pentax K100D. Flash aimed straight up at the ceiling with a big bounce card on back.
- EXIF . . . 10mm, 1/25sec, F5.6, auto, iso1600
@ Wingman -- with the camera on auto, it was doing slow-sync flash at 1/25sec. And that worked. Still got the streamers frozen in the air. The camera was able to work out a nice balance. But there was one picture where someone moved really, really, fast (I think they were in mid jump) and they are blurred out. I was also kicking myself for not bringing some gels I had gotten long ago. I could have stuck on a gel to make my flash similar colour to the lights and try to balance everything. Oh, well. Live and learn.
@ gfurm -- Reading through what you say about setting up a couple of off camera flash units. This would probably be the scenario I would do it for.

Scenario 2: Portraits with subjects about 3 feet away.
- Camera set-up the same way.
- Shots don't turn out that bad.
- I guess the big bounce is able to spread the light around and the subjects being far enough away, its able to get a bit of the bottom of their faces. This is where I'm thinking an omni bounce might work better.

Scenario 3: Portraits with subjects closer than 3 feet away. (more like a foot away.)
- This is the biggest problem for lighting.
- After I get the midnight shot, I walk around getting goofy closeups of everyone. Getting their faces about a foot (or closer) to the lens, and the blowers and such passing even closer to the lens makes some funky and funny pictures. And everyone is in such a good giddy mood.
- Anyway . . . the thing is . . . at a foot away, flash is problematic. Built-in flash won't get past the lens to the bottom side of their face. Neither will the external flash.
- This is where I think the ring flash adapter might help. It only has to get about 1-5 feet away to give a kiss of flash on the (top and bottoms) of peoples faces. And then higher iso combined with slower shutter speed can pull in the rest of the room.
@Tachikoma -- I hear you on the vignetting. And with a fisheye it would be even worse. And the 10-17 is a really short lens too. Maybe I could figure out a way to mount the flash unit a bit more back from where it usually sits and connect it with a cable? Does that sound possible?
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Old Jan 7, 2013, 10:29 AM   #12
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@Tachikoma -- I hear you on the vignetting. And with a fisheye it would be even worse. And the 10-17 is a really short lens too. Maybe I could figure out a way to mount the flash unit a bit more back from where it usually sits and connect it with a cable? Does that sound possible?
It depends on the flash, on mine the opening for the lens isn't that big so you would need a really skinny lens to be able to mount it further along the lens.

How about a cheap dual-flash macro arm setup, but with the flash pointed out rather than in?

http://www.play.com/Electronics/Elec...7Cprd:10287916

Note: I'm assuming the arms can point out and don't lock at a certain angle.

If you gave it some time to mess around with it, then you could put some marks on the arms so you know where to position them for certain focal lengths. Both so they aren't in the field of view, and also to spread the light out enough.
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Old Jan 8, 2013, 11:21 AM   #13
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Thanks for the link.

I just keep playing around with this in my head.

Its just experimenting / playing so I don't want to spend too much.

But thinking a combination of the dual-flash and slave flash might be the cheap ticket.

Camera w. fisheye, and the Pentax AF540FGZ up top through a omni-bounce. And a cheap slave flash underneath the camera / lens (maybe just taped to the bottom of the camera? <grin>), dialed down just to give a bit of light to the bottom. Just to fill in the shadows underneath.

I can simulate / test this out using one of my Vivitar 285HVs as the slave flash.

Anyway . . . thanks for the input.

Take care
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